A Brief History of the Rolex Oyster Bracelet

Oyster Bracelet with 18k gold on Rolex Daytona

Rolex initially began fitting their timepieces with metal bracelets in the 1920's and 1930's using a top Swiss bracelet design company Gay Frères.  Gay Frères was founded back in 1835 and made many jewelry creations before and after that were not related to the watchmaking industry.  However, they have designed some of the most iconic watch bands for Rolex, AP and many fine timepieces over the years.  Gay Frères was acquired by Rolex in 1998.  

Since Gay Frères created bands for many other watch manufacturers, Rolex decided to build a band of their own - the Oyster bracelet - which was released in the late 1930's and patented in 1947.  The Oyster bracelet has gone through many changes over the years, however the three-link design has remained the same.

From Hodinkee - a history from left to right
of Oyster Bracelets from oldest to newest

Hodinkee, an excellent resource for Rolex trivia, compiled a beautiful array of Oyster bracelets.  Startting from the left, you can see an early Bone style design which looks nothing like the oyster of today.  That is followed by a 4 link design, with the center links looking awfully close to the large center link of the 3 link Oyster.  The 3rd design were 3 links of the same size, but clearly not as distictive or artistic as what is yet to come.  

As you move down to the modern Oyster, you can see that Rolex began to make the links more slender as you approach the buckle, while adding the Rolex logo to the clasp.  Also, Rolex refined the bracelet as it attached to the watch case in 1952.  Curved to fit the case and reduce pressure on the lug, the bracelet started to have the appearance of being wholly designed as an extension of the watch case.  There is no gap between the lug and the watch case.

Oyster Glidelock

Rolex Oyster bracelets became the standard for sports watch bands since it provided sophisticated engineering, smooth lines and security.  Rolex knew that the band itself is essential for keeping their timepiece free from damage or loss so as much care has been put into making the Oyster bracelets stronger and more functional. 

Oyster Bracelet with Everose Gold on a Sky Dweller

The Oyster bracelet can be fitted with an Oysterclasp, the Oysterlock or the Crownclasp.  It has the optional Easylink comfort extension link system for quick comfort adjustments on the wrist.   In 1969, the Submariner and Sea-Dweller were shipped with a diver's extension system.  The Oyster comes in steel, yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and dual-color "rolesor" combining metal and gold on a single band.  

Rolex Oyster Rolesor bracelet on Submariner

The Oyster bracelet is as iconic as the Oyster case that has made Rolex famous.  The large center link with smaller surrounding links, seem to funnel beautifully towards the clasp for the most comfortable fit.  The Oyster band can also be found on several Tudor timepieces.