The Rolex Quickset - Date Hack Feature - 1974


Rolex developed the quickset feature in 1974 in order to solve a pressing issue with their date models.  Having to set the date aperture in a non quickset timepiece is aggravating.  You would have to rotate the crown over and over again until the actual day of the month appeared in the aperture.  this would mean you would have to rotate the crown up to 24 times in order to get to change the date window one day forwards or backwards.  Imagine having to change the day 10 days away.  You would need to rotate the crown 240 times.  Exhausting.

The Rolex 3035 became the primary caliber that Rolex used featuring the quickset feature set.  It allows the wearer to quickly pull out the crown and adjust the date forwards or backwards with quickness.  This saves tremendous time and frustration.  Although Rolex was late to the game, the new feature set became a mainstay of the Rolex line from this point forward.

The caliber 3035 was built with 12.5 lignes and 27 jewels.  It beats to a 28,800 frequency and has a 48 hour power reserve.

The caliber was a self-winding unit, fully certified as a chronometer with COSC, and utilized a Breguet hairspring, Kif shock protection for its balance and escape wheel.  It was produced primarily between 1977 and 1988.


Great Rolex Timepieces Priced Under $6000


Since I wrote my first piece for Rolex timepieces under $5,000 the prices for Rolex have skyrocketed.  Although you can find pre-owned Rolex deals for under $5,000 it is less common. So, I am raising the price so that the expectations are adjusted to 2019 prices and the reality of the Red Hot Rolex marketplace.

However, don't worry, because I will show you some very nice Rolex bargains for under $3,000.

There are many online shops that offer pre-owned watches from reputable sellers. The Rolex Forum has a Classifieds section where people can sell and trade their timepieces. Other sites like WatchRecon aggregate listings from various sellers to give you an idea of what's available online. There are also shops like Bob's Watches, Chrono 24 and Hodinkee that sell pre-owned timepieces.  Today if you do a search on Google, the Google results page shows plenty of offerings.  As you hone in on the exact model you are looking for you can find many timepieces that meet your exact criteria. 

There are going to be some models of Rolex that will be priced much higher than the $6,000 price tag.  For example, the Rolex Daytona will not be on our buying list today.  In addition we will not find any Sea Dweller's, GMT Masters, Submariners, or Sky Dwellers available at this price point.  

With that said, there were some surprising opportunities out there.  First surprise was a vintage Day-Date.  

This is an 18kt yellow gold Presidential Rolex Day Date with a unisex 36mm Case with a leather bracelet. It has a gorgeous 18kt yellow gold fluted bezel. I love the classic white dial with gold luminous hands and Roman hour markers. The date display appears at the 3 o'clock position and day of the week appears at the 12 oclock position. It utilizes 31 jewels in the automatic movement and scratch resistant sapphire crystal. It is water resistant at 100 meters/330 feet.  This comes in at a price of $5995, just under our budget.  

It was amazing to me to find such a gem in yellow gold especially since the gold prices are still quite high.  You might think that the leather band is something that is a deal breaker, but if you put this timepiece on your wrist, you wouldn't take it off.  The comfort of the timepiece and luxury of wearing a Day Date on your wrist, will easily overwhelm any need for a metal band.  

For the next set of Rolex timepieces I want to hit the opposite end of the spectrum and go for the lowest price Rolexes that almost anyone can afford.  For this, we need to look no further than the Rolex Air King timepiece.

Rolex Air King doesn't get much love out in the marketplace.  However, it is clearly a beautiful timepiece.  Above I have two Air Kings for the $3400 price tag.  Although they are also pre-owned, the luxury and Rolex look and feel and natural luxury are clearly evident.  The blue Air King is a 2001 model  and has Silver-tone stainless steel case with a silver-tone stainless steel oyster bracelet.  The stunning blue dial with Arabic numeral and index hour markers is emphasized by the Engine turned silver-tone stainless steel bezel. It has minute markers around the outer rim. and luminescent hands and markers.  The Rolex Air King is powered by a calibre 3130 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It has a scratch resistant sapphire crystal and screw down crown. The case size is 34 mm.  It is also water resistant at 100 meters / 330 feet.  The grey option is a bit more subtle in its approach, but is still a fantastic value.  


The Air King timepieces above are both available for under $3,000!!!  For this analysis, I will look at the one on the right, which seems to be in a bit better shape than the one on the left.  It is a 1983 model with a silver-tone stainless steel case with a silver-tone stainless steel oyster bracelet and a fixed smooth silver-tone stainless steel bezel. The silver-tone dial is offset with luminescent silver-tone hands and index hour markers. The one drawback is that it utilizes a scratch resistant acrylic crystal rather than sapphire crystal. The 34 mm case is water resistant at 100 meters / 330 feet.  It comes in at only $2500, and is still a stellar Rolex timepiece for an absolute bargain.


The above Rolex Datejusts are two exceptional representatives of under 3k in the Rolesor style - mixing both yellow gold and steel.  There is nothing more Rolex than a Datejust.  The Oyster shaped case is unmistakable.  The champaign dial on the left is cerca 1971, whereas the one on the right is a 1982 model.  Even in this price range, you can select between an Oyster or Jubilee style bracelet, left to right, respectively.  
These Rolex Datejusts go up in price but are still under 6k.  The left one has diamond hour markers and is quite stunning at just under $5,000.  It is a fairly young 2000 model.  The right Datejust comes in at $5,500 and was manufactured in the last 8 years.  It is the newest of the ones we have displayed so far, but has a stellar look - entirely in stainless steel, with Roman numerals for hour markers.  


The last Rolex I would recommend looking at just under the $6,000 mark is the Rolex Explorer II.  Still baked in historical lore, the Rolex Explorer II is a fine addition to any collection or even as a first and only Rolex timepiece.  Both units above are manufactured around 1996 and are in fantastic working shape.  The luminescent hour markers are not unlike what you might see on a Submariner.  Yet, the Explorer II has a fantastic 24 hour bezel and 24 hour red hand that allows you to keep track of a 2nd time zone.  Easy readability and a date aperture.  This is a rugged and infinitely useful timepiece.  Choose between the classic white bezel or masculine black bezel, each with exceptional readability in both day and night time.  


What's new in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual DateJust 31mm?



The 31 mm version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual DateJust is a midsize case that is sometimes referred to as Unisex.  The DateJust lineup has also been available in 26 mm, 34 mm and 36 mm.  The 31 mm is significantly smaller and lighter than the "men's" DateJust, but it is still a Rolex and has a solid feel to it - lending to it's unisex appeal.

Rolex has launched six models at Baselworld 2019 - all in dual color or Rolesor.  There is the Datejust 31 mm in Oystersteel and yellow gold and the other is in Oystersteel and Everose gold.  There are two strap options - the Oyster Bracelet with the Oysterclasp with Easylink comfort extension links and the Jubilee bracelet with concealed folding Crownclasp.

There are significant differences in the bezel, use of diamonds, the hour markers and dial coloring throughout the 5 models. However the design of the case remains consistent.  The case is waterproof to 330 feet with its Twinlock double waterproofness system built into the screw-down winding crown.  All Rolex timepieces are covered by the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.  These DateJusts also feature Rolex's signature cyclops lens over the date aperture at the 3 o'clock position. 

The biggest feature difference that separates these new 31 mm's from older models is the new 2236 caliber movement with a 55 hour power reserve.  The Perpetual rotor self-winds bidirectionally.  It has a Syloxi hairspring in silicon and high performance Paraflex shock absorbers. The Syloxi hairspring provides stability and resistance to temperature variations - providing up to 10 times more precision than traditional hairspring in the case of shocks.  

The geometric design also ensures regular precision in any position.  It has all the basic features you would expect in a DateJust including the centre hour, minute and seconds hands.  It has an instantaneous date window with rapid date setting.   It also has a stop-seconds feature for precise time setting.  
The two models just above feature diamonds around the bezel and there is a diamond for each of the hour markers other than at the 3 o'clock position where the date window appears and the 12 o'clock position which features the Rolex crown.  All of the diamonds are surrounded by 18ct gold to prevent tarnishing on the dial.  

My preference for the first timepiece above, featuring a Rose colored dial, Rose gold and Oystersteel Oyster bracelet and fluted bezel is primarily because of its simple look.  I personally feel that the Jubilee bracelet pulls so much attention away from the timepiece, especially when the timepiece is adorned by diamonds throughout the dial and bezel.  Also the pink gold Roman numerals for the hour markers looks elegant against the Rose coloring of the dial. Of the diamond studded case designs I feel the 5th option above with the silver dial, Oyster bracelet and Rose gold and Oystersteel combination makes this a nearly perfect timepiece with no distractions other than the beautiful gemology used in the making of this timepiece.

Baselworld 2019's Launch of the New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 mm

The Rolex Datejust is the flagship product which Rolex is primarily known for.  The standard Oyster shape case is the design that the world has come to love and respect - making a Rolex, well, a Rolex.  It might seem hard to feel excited about the Datejust.  It just has a date aperture after all, right?  It isn't built for climbing like the Explorer, or for multiple time zones like the GMT Master II, or built for deep sea diving like the Submariner series.  It doesn't have the intense complexity of the President's Day Date or the Daytona. 

So, why should we stand up and applaud the new Datejust with a thunderous ovation and praise?  Think of the Datejust as a timeless dedication to perfection.  Just as you would applaud a married couple that announced their 50 year anniversary and dedication to each other, the DateJust and its creaters deserve adoration for their dedication to the perfection of the Datejust line.  The Datejust is fast approaching its 75th year since its first release in 1945.  So many models, enhancements, and options have appeared since the first launch nearly 3/4 a century ago. 

The current Datejusts are available in 28 mm, 31 mm, 34 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm.  There are many bezel options, metal options, and dial options.  Too many to cover in even a dozen articles. 

Today we are going to look at the new Rolex Datejust reference 126200, which is one of the lowest costing new Rolex models made today, starting at a mere $6800.  If you want to start your collection with a solid timepiece with the superior quality of Rolex on your wrist, this is the one to consider. Built from 904L steel, this timepiece is built to last.  It is resistant to corrosion, and can maintain its beauty even in the harshest environments. 

I had a tough decision when deciding on dial options.  Brad Pitt obviously thinks that only black dials are masculine enough to wear out and about.  However, there is something more subtle and demure with the white dial.  Add to that the classic elegance of the Roman numeral hour markers. 

This Rolex Datejust reference 126200 has a domed bezel, an Oystersteel bracelet and all the normal bells and whistles you expect with a Rolex - such as the scratch-resistant sapphire, cyclops lens over the date window and screw-down waterproofness system built into the winding crown. 

The new features of this Datejust include the carefully crafted calibre 3235.  This is a new-generation self-winding movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, combining 14 patents.  The new Datejust offers improvements in  precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. It incorporates the new Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic interference. 

The most notable enhancement is the added power reserve.  This new Rolex calibre 3235 can hold a charge for up to 70 hours which allows the owner to remove the timepiece on a Friday night and put it back on on Monday morning without having to set the time.  This is a perfect work timepiece.  It would look fine doing whatever you do - from blue collar work to the board room, you could be proud and secure knowing that the best timepiece in the world is on your wrist at a price tag that almost anyone can afford.



What's New with the Rolex GMT Master II?

The New GMT Master II
The Rolex GMT Master was initially designed to help airline pilots as they traveled across timezones.  It was adopted as the official watch of Pan American World Airways.  It was also worn by the Concorde test piolots Brian Trubshaw and Andre Turcat during the 1960's.  The ability to track two timezones at once is not only a feature that help pilots, but world travelers such as businessmen, sports icons, and celebrities that need to keep a handle on both their home turf and their temporary stay at whatever city they are visiting today.

The nearly scratchproof bidirectional ceramic rotatable bezel is marked with a 24 hour clock with moulded gold or platinum for the numerals.  A red hour 2nd hour hand with a big triangular end marks the 2nd time zone hourly time.  This is a beautiful timepiece and it has been at the forefront of the finest Rolex watchmaking utilizing 10 patents filed over the course of the development.

There are several other color options available today.  Besides the Pepsi, there is a Blue and Black bezel option ("Batman"), and a black and brown bezel that looks spectacular on the Rolesor and all gold models. The 40 mm Oyster case is used throughout the models.  However, there is a new White Gold GMT-Master II that sports an Oyster bracelet. The all black bezel has been discontinued, as has the Oyster bracelet on the steel GMT.

This version of the GMT Master II has the Pepsi bezel with Blue and Red coloring helping to indicate day and night hours.  It also is displayed with a Jubilee bracelet which was introduced in 2018 built out of Oystersteel.  It is water resistant to 330 feet and utilizes a Triplock triple waterproofness system, along with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

The new Calibre 3285 that powers the new GMT Master II gives gains in precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetism, while increasing reliability.  The Calibre 3285 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic interference.

The movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring its regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance.

The Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3285 extends to approximately 70 hours.

The biggest features of the GMT Master is utility and reliability.  With the new 70 hours of power reserve, this makes the GMT even more useful to travelers who will have nearly 3 days of power reserve. Although there aren't too many new features on the new GMT Master II, the enhanced Calibre 3285 is well worth it and is significant enough of a change to warrant grand applause for the Rolex artists that continually tweak their nearly perfect artform to make it even better.

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