5 Things Rolex Doesn't Want You to Know


Rolex is one of the iconic brands ever created.  However, even the best brands have some dirty little secrets that they would rather not expose to their client base of fans.  Here are five things that Rolex doesn't want you to know.

1. Rolex has seen a huge surge in popularity in recent years - as the popularity of timepiece ownership has gone up.  That isn't earth shattering news.  However, rather than increase supply with the increasing demand, Rolex has chosen to keep its watch supply low.

This has had the effect of creating a waiting list for popular Rolex timepieces - even people offering to pay more for a "Pre-owned" Rolex timepiece just to get their hands on their coveted possession.  This has driven up the cost of both New and Pre-Owned Rolexes.  Some prices (for example - Daytona's) have gone through the roof and demand doesn't seem to be slowing.

Most companies would increase supply to help meet demand and stabilize prices.  Not Rolex.  It is true that every Rolex watch takes approximately a year to produce.  The craftsmanship that goes into a Rolex is incredible.  But a top tier brand like Rolex could acquire talent like no other brand if they wanted to.  Even at 800,000+ timepieces produced each year, the skyrocketing demand is forcing prices to increase rapidly - making Rolex ownership harder for the working man or woman.

2. Rolex is originally an English Brand.  Yes, Rolex is entirely designed, developed and produced in Switzerland today.  However, Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis created the company in London, England in 1905.

They registered the name Rolex in 1908 and renamed the company Rolex Watch Co. Ltd. in 1915.  

It wasn't until 1920 that the company moved its base of operations to Geneva, Switzerland, not because they wanted to tap into the horological tradition and history of Switzerland, but merely to avoid heavy taxation from a recovering post-war Britain.

3. Rolex is not the most exclusive timepiece made today.  A major goal of any fine brand would be to separate themselves and make themselves appear to be more luxurious than other brands.  However, although Rolex is exceptionally valuable, there are plenty of other brands that are rarer right out of the gate.  Although there are plenty of watch brands that may have an exceptionally pricey timepiece or one that is built with enough diamonds to fill a mine. However, here are a few timepiece brands that will outprice a Rolex typically out of the gate.
  1. Patek Philippe
  2. Audemars Piguet
  3. Vacheron Constantin
  4. Lange & Söhne
  5. Jaeger-LeCoultre
  6. Roger Dubuis
4. Rolex Foundary's value might be more valuable than Fort Knox.  Yes, security in Rolex HQ is pretty tight.  Rolex manufactures its own gold, calibers and has plenty of gemologists onsite.  And Rolex watches hold their value and have more value than an ounce of the same amount of gold.  

According to a US Government agency in 1973, the value of Fort Knox gold was worth about 6 billion.  That might be worth 190 billion today, assuming the gold stash is still intact and not sold off to pay for US ballooning debt. But to take the 6 billion and compare it against a profit of 5.5 billion of Rolex indicates that Rolex does have a pretty impressive stash of their own.  

Although Rolex may only make a profit of 5.5 Billion, the value of their remaining gold, finished timepieces, and gem collection would far exceed 6 billion.  Would it be worth 20 billion on the open market?  800,000 finished Rolexes sold at 30k each would amount to $24 billion, which is 4 times 1973 value of Fort Knox gold.  

5. Rolex is likely a made up word.  Some people guess that Rolex comes from the French term "horlogerie exquise" or Horological Exquisite (exquisite timepiece).  However, there is no proof that backs that up.  

Unlike so many fine brands that are named after the early founders and horological experts that designed the timepieces, Rolex is a name that Hans Wilsdorf created the name to be easily spoken in any language.  

In fact, he thought the name sounds like a clock when it "hurt itself." Rolex, in fact, could be the sound of a broken clock?  That would definitely be a secret Rolex would want to keep under wraps.


10 Things I Hate About Rolex

First, I want to say that I love Rolex and wearing one is a great thrill and honor.  However, for this post I am going to dig up the things about the brand that I dislike.  It isn't all Rolex's fault and you will see what I mean in a moment.

1. Rolex metal scratches fairly easily.  For all that is said about Rolex 904L steel and custom blended gold from its own foundry, the Rolex timepiece actually scratches rather easily.  The shiny polished metal doesn't take much to get buffed up.  However, this is not specifically a Rolex issue, as many other high end timepieces also scratch easily.

I would expect an heirloom piece which Rolex clearly is, would be much better when it comes to retaining its pristine new look.  That is not the case.  However, Rolex is still a Rolex even with a few scratches on it.  It certainly doesn't bring the value down much at all and adds some character to a timepiece that is admired the world over.

2.  Prices keep  going up.  This is one of the biggest secrets that Rolex doesn't want you to know about.  Certainly if you can't afford a Rolex, their sister brand Tudor is definitely an option for you as well.  The Oyster case and movement look and act almost identical to a Rolex for a fraction of the price.

However, Rolex timepieces are becoming a great investment for collectors that are buying and stashing their timepieces for only a few years.  I don't know how long that will continue.  However, the cost to owning a Rolex keeps rising.

3.  There is no digital Rolex.  I said it.  You may not agree with me, but I think Rolex would be the perfect brand to come out with an infinitely serviceable digital timepiece with analog crossover.  Perhaps the digital mechanism could be upgraded every 3 years with a new module to support the latest and greatest programming.  But combine the digital features of a Samsung with the analog features and design of a Rolex and you get a timepiece that can not just do anything, but would not be something that could be handed down for generations.

I think Rolex is the perfect brand to do this.  Currently with Apple watches and Droid watches, after 3 years the former model will end up in the trash bin.  Rolex has a history of making timepieces that last.  They could offer to service these timepieces for the life of the watch and manufacture the digital components with constant upgrades so that these timepieces could live on and survive for generations.

4. The random serial number system.  Implemented in 2011 in order to help retailers disguise the fact that their Rolex inventory might be the same inventory as the previous year, the serial number system no longer tells the buyer when a timepiece was manufactured.  Yes, you can find out from Rolex itself the manufactured date, but it isn't self evident as it used to be.  In previous years you could look at the serial number engraving and easily determine the year it was produced.

5. Can't custom design your Rolex.  If Rolex determines that it wants to put a Jubilee bracelet on a particular model and stop making it with an Oyster bracelet, you can't opt to swap out the bracelet you prefer to own.  And you can't easily get a spare bracelet from Rolex without buying the whole timepiece.  Perhaps you would like a specific metal, a specific dial, bezel, and bracelet.  You can't pick and choose.  You only can choose from what is already manufactured.

6.  Rolex time pieces must be serviced every 5 years.  The cost of a Rolex service is $500 and you need to send it to Rolex for servicing.  That is quite an expense and upkeep cost, especially considering you could get a beautiful new Hamilton for about that price.

7.  Limited power reserve.  With Panerai timepieces hitting 10 days, you would expect Rolex to compete with some high power reserve models of their own.  I have to comment that Rolex has started upgrading their lineup to approx. 72 hours of power reserve - up from 48 hours.  However, I don't expect Rolex to hit 6 to 10 days of power reserve for years - if ever.

8.  People often have negative reaction to you wearing a Rolex.  Sometimes they think your timepiece is automatically fake.  They may think you to be ostentatious for wearing such an expensive timepiece.  Worse yet, they will strike up conversations about your timepiece - often asking the same questions you have heard over and over again.  Rolex is certainly a conversation starter.  If you are not a fine conversationalist, owning a Rolex could be a problem.

9. No Rolex is perfect.  Although Rolex spends much time and effort to create a superlative chronometer, a Rolex often needs to be adjusted regularly.  It doesn't keep as perfect time as your digital counterpart.

10. You can't own them all.  This is probably the most troubling aspect of owning a Rolex.  Because of the cost of a Rolex, you can only own one or two, perhaps.  Even two might be too much or too extravagant.  If you collect timepieces, you might own 5 or 6 timepieces or more.  However, with Rolex you need to get real selective and pick the one you will own for a long time or your lifetime.  If you have never  owned a Rolex, it is a daunting task to decide which piece you will settle down with.

Rolex Superlative Chronometer Official Certification Developed in 1956

The Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification COSC has been a mainstay for Rolex since the mid 1950's.  Rolex guarantees your watch is accurate to -2/+2 seconds per day, after casing. The COSC requires only a -4/+6 per day accuracy.  Even Omega's Master Certification requires a 0/+5 accuracy. 

Rolex considers accuracy the utmost importance to its timepieces and strives to achieve near perfection in its craft - demanding of itself higher standards than the competition.  

Rolex runs each of its timepieces through a battery of tests internally.  Besides precision, Rolex tests waterproofness, power reserve, and self-winding.  Once completed, these movements are sent out to COSC for an official independent certification, before casing.  

The Green Seal that comes with a Rolex includes a guarantee and warrantee of 5 years.  The green seal means that Rolex has spent tremendous amount of money and time to ensure each timepiece is accurate and reliable.  On many of the timepieces Rolex proudly displays the Superlative Chronometer wording on  the dial itself.  

Rolex Double Quickset Feature Development - 1989

The President's Day Date from Rolex has two inner wheels to contend with.  Not only does it have the date wheel but also the day of the week wheel to manage.  The Day Date with no quickset would be very time consuming to push through the date and day sets in order to get to the appropriate calendar and week day views.

However, the quickset features allowed the date to be adjusted quickly.  Yet, with the Presidential Day Date, this was not enough.  There had to be a separation between the Day of the Week wheel and the Calendar month wheel in order to have the power to easily set either the week or the month independently.  So, Rolex came up with a solution - the Double Quickset Feature.

The single quickset feature was added to the Rolex President Day Date reference 18038 in 1977.  It was powered by a new caliber 3055.  Besides the single quickset feature, it also came with other enhancements including the sapphire crystal.  

However, it wasn't until 1988 that Rolex updated the Day Date to include a caliber 3155 that the double quickset function appeared.  The 3155 allowed the Day Date owner to independently manage the day of the week wheel and the day of the month.  This was far more practical than the single quickset and has been so solid that this caliber is still in use today in its Day-Date 36 models.  


The Rolex Hack Feature - 1972


Rolex has had an enormous set of inventions and enhancements developed for their timepieces over the years.  In 1972 Rolex developed the hack.

The issue that early Rolex calibers would lose seconds when pulling out the crown and setting the time (hour and minutes hands).  With hacking technology, the seconds hand can be stopped and adjusted and synched to another source.  This feature increases accuracy.  Since the seconds don't stop in non-hacking timepieces, you could never get an exact synchronized time with any resource.  The closest you could get would be to the minute.

There are many instances when having hacking and to the second accuracy is essential.  Military operations is clearly the most obvious.  Hacking was not uncommon in some timepieces during the war to coordinate bombing runs, but it wasn't until 1972 when Rolex adopted the technique.



With the release of the caliber 1570 in 1972, it was now possible to stop the sweeping seconds hand by pulling out the watch crown, activating a hacking lever that interrupted the balance wheel and simplifying the act of setting the watch accurately.

The enhancement is a small channel machined into the caliber plate.  It is fitted with a spring tension which is activated straight through to a thin metal bar located between the winding pinion and  touching the balance wheel.  It works similar to a hand break on a car so as you pull out the crown the seconds movement can stop and be adjusted precisely.

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