What is the Difference Between 904L and 316L Stainless Steel?

Rolex is the only watchmaker that uses 904L stainless steel instead of the industry standard 316L stainless steel in their wristwatches. While many on Rolex forums claim that this is simply a way for Rolex to differentiate themselves from competitors, it should be noted that there are differences between the two. 

photo of Rolex 904L Stainless Steel
Rolex 904L Stainless Steel (photo: Rolex)
904L stainless steel is customarily used in chemical and aerospace applications. It is highly resistant to corrosion from acids, which makes it ideal for handling chemicals. However, a wristwatch would rarely be exposed to corrosive acids to such a degree. After all, if the watch on your wrist is exposed to these acids, you would likely lose your arm in the incident, making the watch's resistance to chemicals irrelevant as you will no longer have a wrist to wear it on.

In terms of chemical composition, 904L stainless steel has a lower amount of carbon and a higher concentration of nickel and chromium and copper added in comparison to 316L. Rolex melts this stainless steel alloy twice to purify it and ensure that it will polish well.

The polish and the resistance to scratching are the selling points that Rolex uses to promote 904L stainless steel alloy that they manufacture in-house. Although the process is more rigorous and expensive, the watchmaker insists that it is superior to 316L.

Some claim that higher amounts of nickel in 904L steel could lead to allergies on contact, but anyone with a nickel allergy would have a similar reaction when coming into contact with 316L as well.

For more information on 904L stainless steel, check out my post in the Tech section.

>>BACK TO ROLEX SHOPPING GUIDE

Rolex Introduces GMT-Master II Model in 1982

At the height of the 'Quartz Crisis' that many credit with the decline of the Swiss watchmaking industry from the 1970s to the early 1980s, only the most economically viable Swiss watchmakers remained in business. Rolex was one of those companies, raising the prices of their timepieces consistently through the years to position their products as the ultimate in luxury and innovation. 
photo of First rolex GMT-Master II Model, 1982
First GMT-Master II Model, 1982 (photo: Rolex)
In 1982, Rolex released the GMT-Master II model, which would go on to replace the GMT-Master years later. The GMT-Master II featured a thicker, synthetic sapphire crystal and a thicker case than its predecessor. It also allowed the wearer to jump from one hour to another when adjusting the hour hand without affecting the minute or second hands.

The 1980s also saw the beginning of Rolex's use of 904l stainless steel, which they used in place of the 316l stainless steel which is still the industry standard. This stainless steel alloy is normally used in industrial applications due to its resistance to corrosion and scratching in extreme conditions; it also polished better than 316l stainless steel.

While the advent of quartz watch movements may have altered the landscape of the Swiss watchmaking industry, it would seem to have only reinforced Rolex's vertically integrated business model.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Featured Post

Rolex Online Resources