Should Rolex Develop a Digital Watch?

Fitbit Blaze tracker with PurePulse heart rate, connected GPS and on-screen workouts - $199.99
Fitbit took the world by storm with its ability to calculate number of steps, miles walked, heart rate and so much more.  Apple and Google have extended their respective phone features on their watches as well allowing you to see emails and text messages on your wrist without needing to reach for your phone or fumble through your purse.

This year we are seeing several new players to the digital watch forum.  Besides new versions of the Fitbit and Samsung, we are seeing Michael Kors, Movodo and even Tag Heuer get into the game with some impressive digital offerings of their own.

So, it begs the question of whether Rolex should get into the Digital Watch game or not?

Source: Tag Heuer - Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45 - $2,200
Before, we answer the question, let's look at some of the features of the Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45.  To the right, it is pictured a Tag Heuer watch that is built with dual compatibility for Android 4.4+ and IOS 9+.  So, if you have an Android phone (such as Samsung) or an Apple phone, you are in business.  This watch has several built in sensors which will help track an increasing number of fitness, distance and many other features for you.

  • Accelerometer, gyroscope
  • Tilt detection
  • Microphone
  • Vibrations engine
  • Ambient light sensor
  • GPS 
  • NFC Payment
It is powered by an Intel Atom Processor Z34XX and has 512 MB of memory and 4 GB of storage. The touch display supports fingerprint recognition.  Resolution is a solid 400 x 400.  The case is 45 mm across and 13.75 mm thick.  It has a 1.39 inch screen.    

Since it is a sports watch, they outfitted it with a brown leather strap with a rubber lining.  With an approx pricetag of $4,000, the Tag Heuer certainly approaching the Rolex entry level pricing. 
Movado Connect for Android/IOS - $595

The benefits of digital watches are incredible today.  Firstly, the fitness aspect of these devices are excellent.  Many of these watches also submit information to health providers with monetary incentives for hitting daily goals such as walking 10,000 steps, or climbing 10 flights of stairs.  Tracking heart rate, miles walked, sleep patterns and more can give health professionals data that could help the wearer understand healthy habits and lifestyle options that could lead to better health.

Besides the health benefits, there are utility or infinite app-based add-ons that can make the digital watch very powerful.   Reading email and texts is a huge plus.  Listening to music or getting calendar alerts are big benefits.  Being able to change the clock face to fit your color preference or style preference or even the current set of activities is where the digital watch really starts to separate from the older mechanical technology.  

For example, say you go diving and you change to the diving options of the Submariner, but later in the day you could be driving your race car around a track and would rather have your watch shift to a Daytona timepiece.  That is all possible with digital.  

Samsung Gear S3 - $349.99
The fastest growing selling point for digital watch technology is payment option.  This is just in the early stages, but many restaurants and stores are beginning to accept payment via digital device so you could eventually just leave your wallet at home. Add to that, the fact that you could eventually do away with your physical wallet, and the growth of digital currency like BitCoin, this could become the hottest reason to invest in this technology.


So, does that put timeless Rolex technology into the Model T category of less than useful gadgets in today's age.  Not at all.  Rolex devices are more than fine jewelry.  With the auto winding technology, if you don't have power to charge your digital watch, the standard Rolex lineup would wipe the pavement with digital devices that are essentially dead without a daily (or more often) charge-up.  There are too many situations where a digital watch would be worth less than a rock paperweight if power were unavailable.  

One annoyance of digital is the time-out.  When you look at your Rolex timepiece it is on.  You don't have to tap it for it to turn on.  This saves you precious seconds and certainly doesn't require 2 hands.  Try driving a race car at 180 mph and then need to tap the watch dial to turn on the watch!  Digital also heats up when it is running for an extended period of time.  Have you ever tried to run your laptop on your actual lap?  

Michael Kors Access - $350
Imagine driving, boating or just doing anything active for a long period of time.   With a Rolex timepiece you don't have to worry about charging or feel tethered to the electrical outlet.  The problem is intensified during a power outage caused by some calamity (hurricane, tornado, bad power, or worse).   It is built to last and work doing the handful of features it provides without fail and with great precision.  Many digital watches are not built with the same rigorous standards to support deep diving depths such as the Rolex Submariner.

The value of a Rolex investment is also greater - with many Rolexes currently setting all time records for prices at auction.  

The chances of a defective part in a traditional Rolex is nearly non-existent compared to the potential problems that a digital timepiece might have.  This could cause a digital watch to diminish in value or even become worthless over time.  

As technology changes, will the digital watch be able to keep up 20, 50 or even 100 years from now?  Unlikely.  

Although a digital watch today might support Android 4+ or Iphone, what happens when the next best thing comes out or newer versions of those OS's?  Does the watch lose capability or connectivity?  How many 1st Generation Iphones are still in service?

And what about the electronic parts that are provided by Intel or other brands.  If you need a replacement processor, storage or memory in 2060 for your digital timepiece, will Intel manufacture that for you? For this reason, most digital watches could be considered disposable objects rather than heirlooms that could be handed down from father to son for generations.  That poses a huge challenge for Rolex, which produces timeless works of art.  

With that said, I do believe that Rolex should get into the digital game when they can control the factors of production, integration and technology as they have done since their inception.  They have a time honored history in timepiece mastery.  The potential of what Rolex could do with their timepiece lineup is too immense to ignore.  But they have to guarantee longevity and the timeless design they are known for.  
Concept Art of what a Rolex Digital Watch might look like.  Image from: François Petit / www.1984.agency
Add to that the fact that DATA is becoming the go to resource for every company and human being.  Without data a company will suffer and die out over time.  People that embrace data stop making gut decisions and all the other stuff that might get in the way.  All of us will be drawn into this new realm of more data. The graphic above shows how a data driven watch might use GPS to map a race track and detailed progress in terms of time, splits and speed - a big advance in tech over a standard Daytona.  A dive watch might show dive depth as well as dive time.  Yachtmaster series watches might show weather patterns or even land masses or boat traffic that may cause congestion ahead.  Maybe even sea depth, and wave height could be calculated.  And the more Rolexes people wear, the more data could be collected, providing even better data for others to use. 

Although I fully expect Rolex to embrace digital in the future, they will maintain their main line of watches for the majority of their customer base.  I also expect to see some crossover occur from the digital data people to the standard Rolex line of watches.  For example, step counting.  Why not create a dial that counts the number of steps one takes from the time it is set.  I am sure this could be developed if it doesn't already exist.  Also, I expect to see a mixture of rolex classic design, such as the hands and time clock along with a digital display or two or three.  For example, let's say on the Daytona, the three circles could have digital outputs that vary.  Or perhaps the whole back can be digital, but the clock hands remain intact.  The permutations are endless.  

However, the bottom line is that I wouldn't want to exchange my Rolex timepiece for a digital option unless Rolex was involved somehow.  Do you feel the same?

Rolex's Time Tested Testimonee Concept Lives On Today

The First Rolex Testimonee, Englishwoman Mercedes Gleitze, in Daily Mail, 1927 (photo: Rolex)
In English, the word "testimony" refers to a statement of fact made by a witness in a legal case that can be used as evidence. Since the earlier half of the twentieth century, Rolex has used the term "Testimonee" to refer to the celebrities who agree to lend their names to endorse the brand and its product offerings to the public. The clipping from the Daily Mail above shows the first Rolex Testimonee, English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze.

As demonstrated by their choice of an athlete who attempted to be the first female to swim across the English Channel, Rolex ties their brand to "exceptional personalities whose accomplishments bear witness to the excellence of Rolex watches." More recently, their roster of Testimonees includes opera greats like Plácido Domingo and Rolando Villazón, athletes like Roger Federer and Lindsey Vonn and other notable personalities.

The watchmaker uses their celebrity Testimonees for ads and features on their official website and social media accounts. They focus on the watches themselves in most of their print ads in magazines like The New Yorker and high end Condé Nast publications, though. However, they recently added a section to their website titled "Every Rolex Tells a Story" featuring mainly athletes sharing their experiences with the Rolex watches in their collections. They also feature their Arts Testimonees on a page dedicated to their involvement in the arts. Many rappers and R & B artists wear Rolex watches in their music videos and live performances, but none of them have been featured as Testimonees to date.

While most of their advertising and marketing today caters to the sensibilities of conservative baby boomers with a taste for luxury, the idea of using celebrities to promote their products was an innovation at the time. It lives on today with most luxury retailers using similar celebrity endorsements to tie their brand identities to the achievements of exceptional individuals.

>>BACK TO HISTORY

Rolex Celebrates Throwback Thursdays With Videos of Vintage Watches

The #tbt hashtag used on social media platforms like Instagram is used to feature 'Throwback Thursday" posts. Though Rolex takes a very hands-off approach when it comes to traditional marketing techniques, they have been posting #tbt videos on their official Instragram account of their most famous models. I have embedded videos below that show vintage versions of the Submariner, Explorer and Day-Date watches. 
#TBT First Rolex Submariner, Day-Date and Explorer Models
If you find the videos below a bit short, you can take a look at the original watches in the photo above. These are arguably three of the most popular Rolex models, save the Daytona and GMT, so it is interesting to see a vintage version in working condition, even if just for a few seconds.


The yellow gold Day-Date above looks like the original from 1956. Click here for more information on the first gold Day-Date, known as the 'Presidents' Watch.'.


The Submariner above from 1973 looks like the Reference 5513 used in the James Bond film 'Live and Let Die.'


Finally, the Rolex Explorer was released in 1953 and has not changed much since its debut. To find out when all of your favorite Rolex models were released, check out the Historical Timeline on this blog or visit rolex.com.

>>BACK TO HISTORY

Rolex Wristwatch First to Receive Kew Certification in 1914

Letter From the British Horological Institute to Rolex on the Subject of the Record Kew Certificate
Before 1914, the Kew Observatory in Great Britain had never granted a "Class A" certification to a wristwatch. These certifications were generally given to large marine chronometers that went through rigorous testing until Rolex submitted a wristwatch to prove that they could be just as precise. On July 15, 1914 they proved the skeptics wrong by submitting a small watch that looked like the one photographed below and making it the first wristwatch to ever receive Kew Certification. With this accomplishment, Rolex began manufacturing more certified chronometers than any other watchmaker in the industry at the time.

A Rolex Watch Comparable to the First Class A Chronometer (photo: Rolex)
The testing took place over 45 days and included testing the precision of the tiny wristwatch in five different positions. It was also submitted to extreme temperatures, ice-cold and burning-hot, and also ambient temperature. The stringent testing was necessary because the precision of the marine chronometers of the time was necessary to ensure the safety of the ships that depended on their accuracy. The Rolex watch submitted for testing was precise up to +1 second.

Kew Chronometer Results (photo: Rolex)
Rolex continued to manufacture certified chronometers while it developed other advances in watchmaking. By 1926, they introduced the Oyster case, a waterproof case that is still in use today on most Rolex models. In 1931 they introduced the self-winding Perpetual rotor that is also still used today to power most automatic mechanical watches. After 1951, when it became compulsory for all watches to pass certification, the watchmaker made sure all of its movements received particularly good results through 1971, when those citations were no longer issued. Since then, Rolex has come up with its own Superlative Chronometer Certification.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

How Do Watches Reflect the Times?

For many watch collectors and luxury watch enthusiasts, it is the legacy behind their favorite timepieces that fuels their passion and intrigue. To create a luxury wristwatch that will stand the test of time, watchmakers must master the art and science of watchmaking, incorporating technical innovations and changing aesthetics over time to meet the needs of contemporary consumers. Designed to last a lifetime, watches are meant to be handed down from one generation to another and in the process, they offer insights into the past that go beyond telling time. 


First Rolex Oyster Perpetual Model, 1931
Early Rolex models, like the first Oyster Perpetual model from 1931 shown in the photo above, adhere to an elegant aesthetic that is now reserved for dress watches. In the 1920s and 1930s, men's fashion trended toward tailored suits, with sweaters and jackets considered casual. The Fashionisto offers a glimpse at depression-era fashion in this post on 1930s men's fashion. The fact that men wore suits almost exclusively when leaving the house makes it logical that the wristwatches they wore would seem formal and dressy based on current trends. These days, the idea of wetting a dress watch with a leather strap seems almost reckless, with so many waterproof stainless steel dive watches available. Back then, however, wearing anything other than a dress watch would have been considered a faux pas.
First Submariner, Milgauss and GMT Models from the 1950s
After World War II, men's fashion became less rigid and suits began to be replaced by more casual clothing, especially by the youth. It was an age of exploration, with submarines exploring the ocean floor and airlines like Pan Am offering passengers the chance to see the world. This decade also saw the introduction of the stainless steel tool watches that dominate the market today. The first Submariner, Milgauss and GMT models were all introduced in the mid-1950s and have seen little change since then in terms of aesthetic. Rolex still offered dress watches, like their popular Datejust model, but innovations in watchmaking allowed them to apply their craft to making watches that do more than just tell time.

Apple Watches
Advances in technology would affect the Swiss watchmaking industry in the 1970s and 1980s with the advancement of quartz movements. This technical innovation saw the end of many traditional Swiss watchmakers, with companies like Rolex incorporating the technology into their watches to stay above the trend. Many call it the quartz crisis, while others attribute the growth of companies like Rolex after the 1980s to the fact that many other luxury watchmakers in their industry ceased operations as a result. Technology is still affecting the luxury watch industry today with the advent of the smartwatch. I recently covered the rise of the Apple watch in post found here. I don't believe that smartwatches will take customers away from companies like Rolex, but they still represent an innovation in watchmaking that is reflective of the tech boom of the past decades.

Rolex's 2016 Yacht-Master II and Deepsea models
While technology and innovation with always play an important part in the watchmaking industry, the current trend in luxury watches is size. In 2007 and 2008, Rolex released their largest wristwatches, the Yacht-Master II and Deepsea models shown in the photo above. With 44mm cases, these nautical tool watches offer contemporary customers Rolex watches that size up to the large cases offered by companies like Panerai. Size matters these days and while many would advise against wearing one of these models with a suit, the reality is that men's fashion is far more sporty now that it ever has been. Many work environments now allow for rolled up or even short sleeves, freeing men from the restrictions of a suit and tie and allowing them to accessorize with tool watches instead of traditional dress watches.

As society moves forward and technology with it, luxury watches follow suit. Collectors and enthusiasts appreciate the combination of craftsmanship and design aesthetic that have gone into creating the wristwatch models that have endured for decades, offering them a glimpse into the ingenuity and sensibilities of days past. What the future holds for luxury watches remains to be seen, but one thing is for certain: wristwatches are designed to tell the time, but they are also telling of the times.

>>BACK TO ROLEX HISTORY
SaveSave
SaveSave

Rolex Deepsea Challenge 2012

In 2012, filmaker and explorer James Cameron descended into the deepest part of the sea to explore the Challenger Deep, the deepest part of the Mariana Trench. As they did in past explorations of the trench, Rolex created an experimental watch to accompany the explorer into the depths for the DEEPSEA Challenge.

James Cameron on the Deepsea Challenger (photo: Mark Thiessen/National Geographic)
The watchmaker committed to the project only a few weeks before the descent, giving them a small window to design and create an experimental dive watch to send down with the Deepsea Challenger. What resulted was an experimental dive watch called the Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Its case measures 51.4 mm in diameter, 28.5 mm thick with a 14.3 mm crystal. You can see the watch in the photo above attached to one of the arms of the vessel at the top right corner.

Photo of Rolex Deepsea Challenge Experimental Watch (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Experimental Watch (photo: Rolex)

The results of this descent proved fruitful for both earth scientists and the engineers that designed the Rolex experimental watch. As expected, the watch survived the crushing pressure of the Challenger Deep, giving Rolex even more bragging rights than before for their dive watches. In terms of earth science, the exploration gave the science community a new understanding of plate tectonics and the actual origin of this trench, which is deeper than the height of Mount Everest. 

“I felt like, literally in the space of one day, I had gone to another planet and come back,”  James Cameron said upon his return to sea level. The video below gives a brief overview of Cameron's experience.

Rolex Deepsea Model Released in 2008

Their largest dive watch to date, Rolex released the Deepsea model in 2008. Featuring a 44mm case, this stainless steel timepiece is larger than the Submariner and features a depth rating of 3,900 meters. As the name suggests, this model was designed for the deep sea exploration.
Photo of First Rolex Deepsea Model Introduced in 2008
First Rolex Deepsea Model Introduced in 2008 (photo: Rolex)
Rolex has been actively involved with deep sea exploration for decades. The bathyscaphe Trieste descended into the Mariana Trench in 1960 with Rolex's experimental Deepsea Special model strapped onto it. In 2012, James Cameron went down the trench for his Deepsea Challenge and also took a Rolex experimental dive watch with him, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge.

The result of years of experimentation and engineering, the Deepsea features a Helium Escape Valve and Ringlock system architecture that improves its depth rating significantly as compared to previous models. It has a domed sapphire crystal that is 5.5 mm thick with no cyclops magnifying lens. A Triplock crown keeps the water from entering the case, ensuring a secure seal.

In 2014, Rolex released this model with a unique D-Blue dial, featuring a blue gradient on the dial to commemorate the historic Deepsea Challenge of 2012. This model also features a unique chartreuse DEEPSEA insignia on the dial, the same color as the submersible used in the challenge.

Photo of Rolex D-Blue Deepsea Model
Rolex D-Blue Deepsea Model (photo: Rolex)
Since its release, there have been endless comparisons between this watch and the Rolex Submariner model. To see how the Deepsea measures up to the Submariner Date, check out my model comparison.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Introduced the Sky-Dweller Model in 2012

In 2012 Rolex released their Sky-Dweller model with an impressive list of utilitarian features for frequent flyers. Protected by 14 patents, this watch can keep the time in two places at once and differentiate between months with 30 and 31 days. It also has a clever annual calendar display, with a month indicator on each of the 12 hour marks and a date aperture at the 3 o'clock position. 
photo of First Rolex Sky-Dweller Model, 2012
First Rolex Sky-Dweller Model, 2012 (photo: Rolex)
The 9001 movement that was designed for this model uses a Saros annual calendar to differentiate between the longer or shorter months. It is one of the most complex mechanical watch movements manufactured by Rolex, responsible for telling the time in two locations at once and allowing the wearer to jump from hour to hour to set it without affecting the minute or second hands.

Aside from the technical innovations, the Sky-Dweller offers an interesting design aesthetic that incorporates the fluted bezel of the original Day-Date, a large 42 mm case, a Cyclops magnifying lens and a unique off-center rotating 24 hour disc.

The functionality of this timepiece is accessible to most after a quick study of the crown and bezel. Its size is just large enough to compete with other large luxury watches that dominate the market but small enough to look sophisticated on the wrist.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Introduces Yacht-Master II Model in 2007

Fifteen years after the release of the Yacht-Master model in 1992, Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master II. With a 44 mm case and a regatta timer, this timepiece took advantage of the watchmaker's tech innovations of the early 2000s to expand upon the functionality of the original. 
photo of First Rolex Yacht-Master II Model from 2007
First Rolex Yacht-Master II Model from 2007 (photo: Rolex)
This massive watch, one of Rolex's largest, was equipped with a 4161 movement that interacted with the Ring Command Bezel to operate the regatta timer and programmable countdown. Based on the 4130 movement, it featured the blue Parachrom hairspring and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Though there couldn't have been much of a demand for a timepiece with a regatta timer on the luxury watch market at the time, the Yacht-Master II provided a nautical alternative to other large professional watches like Rolex's Cosmograph Daytona. From the functionality perspective, the regatta timer isn't anymore esoteric than the tachymetric scale on the Daytona.

More so than the Yacht-Master model, the Yacht-Master II solidified Rolex's commitment to the yachting world. They have sponsored a multitude of yachting events throughout their history, including the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race in Australia.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Tech Innovations of the Early 21st Century

After the release of the Yacht-Master and Pearlmaster models in 1992, Rolex would not release a new model for another 15 years. At the beginning of the 21st century, they focused on technical innovations that would allow them to further vertically integrate their manufacturing and improve upon their timepieces from the inside out.

photo of Rolex Tech Innovations of the Early 2000s (photo: Rolex/Christophe Lauffenburger)
Rolex Tech Innovations of the Early 2000s (photo: Rolex/Christophe Lauffenburger)
In 2000, Rolex fitted the Cosmograph Daytona with their 4130 movement. Completely manufactured by the watchmaker, this movement replaced the Zenith El Primero movement in the Daytona model. Both the 4130 and the El Primero are still considered the top of the line in terms of mechanical watch movements.

The 2000 version of the 4130 movement contained a Prachrom hairspring that was developed by Rolex. By 2005, they achieved the characteristic blue color on what is now known as the blue Parachrom hairspring. They also patented the Paraflex shock absorber, a shock absorption system also manufactured completely in-house by the watchmaker. In that year they also patented their proprietary Cerachrom ceramic used for the bezel.

Finally, they also improved upon the escapement of their movements, developing the Chronergy escapement used today in their 3235 and 3255 movements. With their movements and most components therein now manufactured in-house, Rolex has more control over the quality of their products than ever. It will be interesting to see how this autonomy will impact what they do next.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Yacht-Master and Pearlmaster Models Introduced in 1992

Rolex released two new models in 1992 that used precious metals and stones to differentiate them from other popular models: the Yacht-Master, shown below in 18 karat yellow gold, and the diamond-clad Lady Datejust Pearlmaster. 
photo of First Rolex Yacht-Master Model Released in 1992
First Rolex Yacht-Master Model Released in 1992 (photo: Rolex)
Many claim that the Yacht-Master model released in 1992 was meant to be an upgraded version of the Submariner model, but Rolex decided to keep the Submariner as is and release this model as a boating watch, as opposed to a dive watch.

For all intents and purposes, it looks like the same watch. However, the Yacht-Master was the first professional Rolex model available in three sizes - 29 mm, 35 mm and 40 mm. Rolex used 18 karat gold on the Yacht-Master, including on the bezel, which featured raised numerals. The 40 mm version uses the same movement as the Sub, adding to their similarities.

photo of First Rolex Pearlmaster Model from 1992
First Rolex Pearlmaster Model from 1992 (photo: Rolex)
The Pearlmaster was also introduced that year as an amped up version of the classic Lady Datejust model. The fist model, shown in the photo above, featured a diamond bezel and a brand new Pearlmaster bracelet, a smoother, more elegant version of the Oyster bracelet. In subsequent models, the links of the bracelet are lined with diamonds as well.

While both models adhere to Rolex design standards for the most part, they each offer variations on popular models that appeal to a wealthier demographic. While the Yacht-Master bears similarities to the Submariner, the name and materials used suggest that this model is designed for the captain of the vessel, not the divers onboard.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Introduces GMT-Master II Model in 1982

At the height of the 'Quartz Crisis' that many credit with the decline of the Swiss watchmaking industry from the 1970s to the early 1980s, only the most economically viable Swiss watchmakers remained in business. Rolex was one of those companies, raising the prices of their timepieces consistently through the years to position their products as the ultimate in luxury and innovation. 
photo of First rolex GMT-Master II Model, 1982
First GMT-Master II Model, 1982 (photo: Rolex)
In 1982, Rolex released the GMT-Master II model, which would go on to replace the GMT-Master years later. The GMT-Master II featured a thicker, synthetic sapphire crystal and a thicker case than its predecessor. It also allowed the wearer to jump from one hour to another when adjusting the hour hand without affecting the minute or second hands.

The 1980s also saw the beginning of Rolex's use of 904l stainless steel, which they used in place of the 316l stainless steel which is still the industry standard. This stainless steel alloy is normally used in industrial applications due to its resistance to corrosion and scratching in extreme conditions; it also polished better than 316l stainless steel.

While the advent of quartz watch movements may have altered the landscape of the Swiss watchmaking industry, it would seem to have only reinforced Rolex's vertically integrated business model.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Sea-Dweller Introduced in 1967

The 1960s were a time of extensive oceanic exploration as advancements in technology allowed scientists to go further than ever before to explore the ocean depths. Henri G. Delouze founded the Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises, or COMEX, in 1961 in Marseille, France, to employ professional divers for industrial deep sea dives for oil rigs, gas companies and oceanographical research. 
photo of First Rolex Sea-Dweller, 1967
First Rolex Sea-Dweller, 1967 (photo: Rolex)
While Rolex had already introduced the Submariner model for professional divers, COMEX divers required a wristwatch with an improved depth rating. In 1967 Rolex introduced a small amount of Sea-Dwellers to meet these needs. The 1665 model, shown above, featured a helium escape valve that allowed helium to escape the case of the watch during decompression without damaging it. The 'Sea-Dweller' and 'Submariner 2000' lines on the dial were colored red, giving them the nickname 'Double Red' by collectors.

In 1978, they introduced reference 16660 equipped with a 3035 movement and a depth rating of 4,000 feet. They also improved the vibrational speed of the Sea-Dweller, increasing it from 19,800 bph to 28,800 bph. The next set of improvements to this model didn't come until 2008 when the Deepsea was introduced.

The legacies of the Submariner and Sea-Dweller live on today in the current models. While some changes have been made throughout the years, the spirit of oceanic exploration and innovation remains an integral part of their popularity.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Pablo Picasso Wearing a Rolex GMT-Master

By the 1960s, both Rolex and Pablo Picasso were known around the world. Picasso for his achievements in art, including but not limited to masterpieces like La Guernica and Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, as well as his influence over the cubist movement in the early 20th century. In the same time period, visionary Hans Wilsdorf brought the Rolex brand to the forefront of innovation and wristwatch design. 

photo of Pablo Picasso Wearing a Rolex GMT-Master and Native American War Bonnet it the 1960s
Pablo Picasso Wearing a Rolex GMT-Master and Native American War Bonnet it the 1960s (photo: Rolex)
He is photographed above wearing a Rolex GMT-Master and a Native American war bonnet in the 1960s. By this time, Picasso has already gone through many artistic periods, from the blue period that produced works like his Blue Nude to the cubist movement that would eventually influence perhaps his most important work, La Guernica, which shed light on the bombing of the the Basque country village during the Spanish Civil War.

Many don't associate Picasso with sculpture, however, he dedicated time to producing sculptures later in his life, including the 'Chicago Picasso' as it is now known. Shown below, the towering sculpture was designed by Picasso in 1965 and built by the US Bridge Company, a division of the US Steel Corporation, for its dedication in 1967.

Picasso was offered $100,000 for the commission, which he donated to the people of Chicago. The abstract cubist sculpture was met with some resistance by some Chicagoans, who compared it to a large insect. Others, including Picasso's grandson, posit that Frenchwoman Sylvette David served as inspiration for this piece.

'Chicago Picasso' Sculpture by Pablo Picasso Dedicated to the People of Chicago in 1967 (source: J. Crocker)
While we may never know what the Chicago Picasso represents, we can appreciate it as a monolith of modern art and a tribute to early 20th century design and ingenuity. It also serves as the perfect foil for the symmetry and adherence to classical design represented by Rolex wristwatches.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Tudor Watch Company

"For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a seperate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company." - Hans Wilsdorf

Ad for Tudor Oyster Prince from 1952 (source: Tudor)
Tudor Watch Company was officially founded in 1946, taking its name from the Tudor dynasty of England. The original logo that appeared on their wristwatches until 1969 was the Tudor Rose, which was replaced by the shield logo that the watchmaker uses to this day. Although Rolex makes no mention of the Tudor brand on any of their current media platforms, Hans Wilsdorf granted the company the right to use Rolex's Oyster Case and Perpetual rotor technology in their timepieces.

The Oyster Prince model was released in 1952 with an advertising approach meant to show that the modestly priced wristwatch could withstand extreme conditions. The 'Trial of Destruction' as it is referred to in the ad shown above, placed an Oyster Prince on the wrist of a laborer operating a pneumatic drill. After one million shocks, the watch was still ticking.

A couple years later, Tudor released their first of many dive watches, the Oyster Prince Submariner. Water resistant up to 100 meters, it featured a bidirectional rotating bezel with five minute intervals to time dives and decompressions. The photo below shows the Tudor Museum Display from Baselworld 2016, with the 1954 Submariner model at the top.

photo of Tudor Museum Display at Baselworld 2016
Tudor Museum Display at Baselworld 2016
The current Heritage Black Bay model synthesizes the featured of Tudor's historical dive watches, including the Snowflake hour hand that was introduced in 1969 and became a signature design feature. The photo below shows the current Heritage Black Bay model with a burgundy disc and aged leather strap.

photo of Tudor Heritage Black Bay with Burgundy Disc and Aged Leather Strap
Tudor Heritage Black Bay with Burgundy Disc and Aged Leather Strap
The Tudor brand gives consumers a good value proposition. Their timepieces offer the durability and reliability of a Rolex with varied modern design configurations and a smaller price tag. They recently updated their official website, giving it a very millennial-friendly vibe.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Debuts Explorer II Model in 1971

Rolex released the Explorer II model in 1971, almost twenty years after its predecessor. Although it shared a name with the Explorer, this wristwatch resembled the GMT-Master much more in terms of function and style - it actually used the same movement as the GMT-Master, either a calibre 1570 or 1575.
First Rolex Explorer Model, 1971 (photo: Rolex)
This professional wristwatch was originally marketed for scientists and explorers, such as speleologists, who easily lost track of day and night while performing research in caves. The original Explorer II had a 40mm case with a 24 hour fixed bezel and an orange 24 hour hand, as shown in the photo above.

For its 40th anniversary in 2011, the Explorer II was reintroduced with a 42mm case and a new 3187 movement. However, this model has changed very little through the years. The current model, shown below, is made with Rolex's 904l stainless steel alloy with a satin finish. It is available with a black dial and orange 24 hour hand, just like the original and the famed Steve McQueen version of the Explorer II.

photo of current Rolex Explorer II model
Rolex Explorer II (photo: Rolex)
The Explorer II is often overlooked amidst the fanfare that surrounds the more popular Rolex models, such as the Submariner and Daytona. However, its longevity on the market and consistent design and functionality makes it a classic.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Daytona Model Introduced in 1963

The Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most popular Rolex models, with long waiting lists to purchase their 2016 model that debuted at Baselworld 2016. The Daytona was introduced in 1963, just a year after Rolex started their relationship with Daytona International Speedway as official timekeeper.

1962 3 Hour Daytona Continental Race Finish (photo: ISC Archives)

The watchmaker had been involved with racing for years before they began their association with Daytona. Land-speed record breaker Sir Malcolm Campbell was featured in Rolex ads in the 1930s and Rolex had been developing 'Pre-Daytona' chronographs since 1955. The chronographs they manufactured from 1955 to 1961 were met with little fanfare and were discontinued before the development of the first Daytona model, pictured below, in 1963. 
First Rolex Daytona Model, 1963 (photo: Rolex)
In the early 1970s, actor and race car driver Paul Newman began wearing the Daytona and became inextricably connected with the Rolex model ever since. Daytona models with 'Paul Newman' dials were not extremely popular at the time, but later the Paul Newman became a favorite for collectors due to their rarity and interesting art deco design features. 

The introduction of the tachymetric graduated bezel on this model made it a coveted tool for professional endurance race drivers at the time of its introduction to the market. While the majority of people on the waiting list for the 2016 model can use their smart phones to keep time, the spirit and style of the race watch makes it a coveted timepiece to this day.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex Founder Hans Wilsdorf Dies in 1960

“Originality and quality must be our slogan for the future in every country. Every Rolex watch must be an ambassador of quality.” The legacy set forth by visionary Hans Wilsdorf lives on through the international success of the Rolex brand decades after his death on July 6, 1960 in Geneva, Switzerland. 

black and white photo of rolex founder hans wilsdorf circa 1942
Rolex Founder Hans Wilsdorf circa 1942 (photo: Rolex)

Innovation and classic style were never mutually exclusive in Wilsdorf's mind. His desire to outpace the mechanical watch industry of his time by adding utilitarian improvements to wristwatches never overshadowed the importance he placed on design aesthetic. The combination of technical advancement and reverence for beauty is still an integral part of Rolex's success.

Wilsdorf left his fortune and his company to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a trust he created upon the death of his wife, May Wilsdorf, in 1944. He stipulated that Rolex was never to become a public company and that part of his fortune be donated to charity. 

“Step boldly. Success demands courage and iron will.”

While he is no longer at its helm, Hans Wilsdorf's imprint is on every wristwatch Rolex manufactures to this day. He tied the brand to excellence and success, and through his words and his actions, guaranteed a future for the company of his creation beyond his own time on Earth.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE


Rolex Deep Sea Special 1960

On the morning of January 23, 1960, the bathyscaphe Trieste descended to a depth of 10,916 meters with Jacques Piccard, son of Auguste Piccard, and US Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh at the helm. The US Navy purchased the Trieste in 1958 and kept Jacques on as a consultant to help run and maintain the submersible.

Bathyscaphe Trieste, 1960 (photo: Rolex)
For the 1960 mission, the goal was to descend 11 kilometers down the Mariana Trench to collect data in one of the most inhospitable environments for life on the planet. Rolex strapped their latest experimental dive watch, the Deep Sea Special, to the outside of the Trieste for the voyage. The wristwatch withstood a pressure of one metric ton per square centimeter in the deepest depression on Earth.

"Happy to announce that your watch works as well at 11,000 meters as it does on the surface," wrote Jacques Piccard to Rolex headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland in a telegram sent on January 25, 1960.
photo of the first rolex deep sea special 1960
Rolex Deep Sea Special 1960 (photo: Rolex)
The Rolex Deep Sea Special photographed above is a mechanical wristwatch with a black dial, luminous pencil hands, a large domed crystal on a stainless steel oyster bracelet. There were several limited edition versions of this watch made for marketing purposes, and Rolex Passion Report did some research to try to figure out exactly which Deep Sea Special went down with the Trieste in 1960. 

It took Rolex years of research and testing to develop the technology that made the Deep Sea Special possible. The successful deep sea submersion of this wristwatch would be one of the last triumphs of Rolex ingenuity that Hans Wilsdorf would experience before his death in July of 1960.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Rolex debuts GMT-Master, Day-Date and Milgauss Models Between 1955 and 1956

The world changed dramatically in the 1950s, and Rolex changed with it. Many of the models that Rolex in best known for today were introduced in this decade. The Explorer and Submariner models made their debut in 1953, and following them was the GMT-Master. 
First Rolex GMT-Master Model 1955
First Rolex GMT-Master Model, 1955
The first GMT-Master model was released in 1955 to meet the needs of airline pilots who were having difficulty keeping track of time and dealing with jet lag while operating transatlantic flights for airlines like Pan American World Airways. It became the official watch of several airlines, including Pan Am.

The GMT-Master solved the problem of dealing with two timezones at once by adding a 24 hour hand and a rotating 24 hour bezel that would allow the wearer to set the time at home and wherever their adventures would take them.
first rolex day date model 1956
First Rolex Day-Date Model, 1956
In 1956, Rolex released the first Day-Date model, which featured a window on the dial that displayed the day of the week written out, a first in the wristwatch industry. This model was fitted with their patented Cyclops lens that magnified the date display on the crystal and the President bracelet.
First Rolex Milgauss Model 1956
First Rolex Milgauss Model, 1956
Finally, the Milgauss model was debuted in 1956 to meet the needs of scientists working in the atomic age. The Milgauss was developed for nuclear scientists, like those who worked for the European Center for Nuclear Research (CERN), who were exposed to magnetism at their job sites. Magnetic energy can affect the precision of a mechanical watch as most of the parts of the movement are made of metal, so Rolex created anti-magnetic technology to protect their movements.

The 1950s saw the birth of Rolex's 'tool watches' which now form part of their professional watch collection. The company released more new models in this decade than in any other, most of which are still available today.

>>BACK TO TIMELINE

Featured Post

Rolex Online Resources