Source: Hodinkee

Fifteen years ago, the Bao Dai Rolex Watch sold at auction on November of 2002 for $235,000, at the time making it the most expensive Rolex watch sold at auction. 

Nguyễn was the 13^th and soon to be last emperor of the combined state of Vietnam.  He had ascended the Emperor’s throne in 1925 at the age of 12 and was given the title of Bao Dai – a title that translates as “Protector of Grandeur” or “Keeper of Greatness”.

Bao Dai’s taste was impeccable.  He owned a rare Ferrari 375 MM Spyder, a private yacht, and a superb French villa.

Bao Dai turned down many rare timepieces before Rolex came to the rescue, finally displaying the Rolex reference 6062 in yellow gold with a black dial and diamond indexes.  This fine timepiece took on his name Bao Dai and will always be associated with the Last Emperor of Vietnam.

Because of the diamond numeral at 12 o'clock, the Rolex crown was moved down, consequently forcing the "Rolex Oyster Perpetual"  to be placed below the day and month apertures. The "Officially Certified Chronometer" wording was moved from the center of the dial and placed below the moonphase dial.

This Rolex watch is also in fantastic shape, with no noticible wear marks or imperfections.  The yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet adds to the effect of the watch, while not overly large, it is comfortable to wear. 

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Reference 116622 (photo: Rolex)

Rolex’s Yacht-Master 40 model combines form and function to offer a stylish configuration that is equally at home on land and sea. With a 950 Platinum bezel and 904l stainless steel case and bracelet, it also combines luxury with utility. The watchmaker has featured this wristwatch model on their official social media accounts recently, with beautiful photos like the one above that show the Yacht-Master in its natural habitat.

The 116622 reference comes with the option of a dark rhodium dial or a blue dial. The rhodium version comes with the model name and seconds hand in light blue, adding to its cool, nautical aesthetic. Its bidirectional, rotatable bezel features a graduated scale to time dives up to 60 minutes. It's functions are powered by a 3135 self-winding mechanical movement. This is the same movement that powers the popular Submariner Date model.

This Yacht-Master model offers a depth rating of 100 meters and a power reserve of 48 hours. Its Oysterlock safety clasp is equipped with an Easylink comfort extension that increases the length of the bracelet by an additional 5mm. This marine watch boasts a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing and is certified as a Superlative Chronometer.

While there are similarities between this configuration and the Submariner Date, the Yacht-Master caters to a more sophisticated watch collector. The color combinations of this stainless steel version evoke an ocean feel. The addition of a platinum bezel lifts it to a higher echelon than a traditional stainless steel dive watch. The suggested retail price for the Yacht-Master 40 (Reference #116622) is $11,550. For more information on this and other Rolex models, visit their official website at rolex.com.

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Rolex Milgauss Worn by Tim Henman

The Rolex Milgauss is the perfect choice for someone that wants a no-frills model. It suits the lifestyle of the physicist and hiker alike. This model was designed to remain undisturbed by intense magnetic fields. Nevertheless, it is the strength of this watch - a product of its tactile purpose - that has made it a favorite amongst collectors.

The Milgauss was the first watch to enclose the movement with a soft-iron container. This made it instantly sturdier than almost all of the watches available on the market at the time. The watch appears sporty while also maintaining the sheer elegance of the Rolex brand. With a seconds hand shaped like a thunderbolt, the Milgauss flips the script on the classical aesthetic of other models.

The watch is powered by a Calibre 3131 self-winding mechanical movement manufactured in-house by Rolex. Its state-of-the-art technology is yet another reminder of the brand’s commitment to producing the best professional watched in the world. Aesthetically, the watch stands out with its black dial and orange hour markers surrounded by a subtle hint of lime green. The lime ring allows for eye-catching beauty while also making the watch more legible to its owner for quick time checks. Its Oyster bracelet an case make this outlier model configuration instantly recognizable.

In one of the latest installments of the “Every Rolex Tells a Story” series, Tim Henman introduces the world to his Milgauss. He chose it for its overall wearability and precision but also because the colors are combined in such a way to make telling the time even easier. For Tim, purchasing the watch was the culmination of a life-long dream of making a career out of tennis, Rolex has been a companion of that journey both on and off the court. Visit rolex.com to learn more about the Milgauss and Tim Henman's Rolex story.

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Rolex Day-Date 36 worn by Tennis Legend Björn Borg (photo: Rolex)

Rolex is the maker of many iconic watches, but none with the legacy of the Day-Date. It is a model steeped in history, having been worn by many successful men, including US Presidents and legendary athletes like Björn Borg. The Ice Man was featured in Rolex’s latest installment of Every Rolex Tells a Story. His model of choice is the 36mm Day-Date in yellow gold with green dial on black leather shown in the photo.

This is the most traditional size for the model, much smaller than today’s popular 40mm model. The original Day-Date introduced the President bracelet in 1956. However, the leather strap configuration is more tied to wristwatch models of that era. The combination of green and yellow gold is a nod to the watchmaker’s corporate colors. An aperture at 12 o’clock displays the day of the week spelled out completely, a design element that also originated on this iconic model.

2017 Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 (Reference #118138)

The 2017 Rolex Day-Date 36 (Reference #118138) is available in yellow gold with a green dial and either the cognac leather strap shown above or a green leather strap.

2017 Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 (Reference #118135)

2017 Rolex Pearlmaster 39 Reference 86409RBR

Originally, watchmakers began using jewels in watches to help decrease metal-on-metal wear and subsequently lengthen the lifespan of the device. Diamonds are harder than metal and Rolex has designed a diamond watch to last the millennia.

The Pearlmaster 39, available in 18ct yellow, white, or Everose gold is a work of art. The diamond paved dial is an impressive accomplishment. The Rolex gem-setters carve a setting for each of the gemstones which are then lodged perfectly and aligned with symphonic symmetry. The dial itself is a triumph, guaranteeing a spectacle for all who glance at its face.

The Reference 86409RBR's bracelet boasts the rounded-five piece link structure introduced with the first Pearlmaster twenty-five years ago. In keeping with that traditional design, the Crownclasp is hidden from view. All that is visible on the bracelet, the dial and the bezel are the brilliant diamonds that almost entirely cover the timepiece.

Perhaps the most impressive feature of the new Pearlmaster 39 is its technology. Rolex takes this part of the job more seriously than its competitors, having developed strict exacting criteria for assessing precision. The watchmaker tests its watches even after they have been tested by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. This Pearlmaster comes equipped with a new generation movement, Calibre 3235. Made with nickel-phosphorus, the watch is immune to magnetic interference.

This watch combines elements of jewel art with the reliability of advanced technology, leaving no doubt that Rolex is pioneering the future of the time-telling industry. For more information on the Pearlmaster 39 (Reference #86409RBR) visit rolex.com.

2017 Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold Rolex Datejust 41 (photo: Rolex)

Rolex Datejust 41 (Reference #126300) (photo: Rolex)

The Rolex Datejust 41 in stainless steel with a black dial (Reference #126300) is a modestly-priced dress watch with a combination of classic and contemporary design elements. The Datejust is the quintessential Rolex dress watch that dates back to 1945. However, this stainless steel configuration features a smooth bezel and black dial that makes it resemble a contemporary sports watch, like the popular stainless steel Submariner Date.

With a case that measures 41 millimeters in diameter, this Datejust also appeals to current watch collector’s desire for larger watch faces. It makes a great first Rolex for someone that isn’t sold on a tool watch but still wants something current. The smooth center links on its Oyster bracelet match the bezel and add an elegant touch. A folding Oysterclasp with a 5mm Easylink comfort extension secures the bracelet. The date aperture at 3 o’clock is magnified by Rolex’s Cyclops lens, one of the watchmaker’s most iconic design elements.

Priced at $7,350 USD, it is just over a thousand dollars less than the Submariner Date and  $800 USD more than the Explorer I. It is powered by a Calibre 3235 self-winding mechanical movement manufactured by Rolex in-house. This model offer a water resistance of 100 meters and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

The Datejust 41 (Reference #126300) carries the legacy of the historic Rolex model with characteristics of the most popular tool watches of today. It can be worn in almost any environment without calling too much attention to the wrist, making it the perfect watch for those who think yellow gold watches are gaudy. For more information on this model, visit rolex.com.

White Gold Rolex Submariner Prototype (photo" Christie's)

The Rolex Afternoon portion of Christie’s latest watch auction took place in Geneva, Switzerland just hours ago and produced sales records for their collection of vintage Rolex timepieces. One of their record breaking watches was the White Gold Rolex Submariner Prototype from the 1970s. This unique dive watch stood out for its bezel, material and condition.

The rarity of this prototype certainly played a role in helping it earn the auction house over 631,500 Swiss francs, the second highest Rolex sale this afternoon behind the Green Khanjar Daytona Reference 6263 that brought in 727,500 Swiss francs. The biggest wristwatch sale of the auction was a Patek Philippe Haile Selassie Reference 2497, which went for 2,911,500 Swiss francs, more than triple its estimated value.

Hodinkee covered the auction results in their latest blog post, commenting on the strange circumstance of this and other rare Rolex models bringing in record amounts this weekend. This Prototype model certainly deviates from what watch enthusiasts would consider the most classic staples of the Submariner model. But it seems that collectors are beginning to favor these deviations over adherence to brand standards.

There are many examples of unique vintage Rolex watches that look nothing like contemporary Rolex model configurations. In a previous post, I presented five of the rarest Rolex models in the world, none of which look like their popular counterparts. Many of them, like the White Gold Prototype, never even went into production. However, the results of recent vintage watch auctions like Christie’s A Rolex Afternoon prove that scarcity and singularity are the ultimate luxury.

White Gold Submariner Prototype From the Early 1970s (photo: Christie's)

This reference was the first Submariner to be produced in a precious metal and the first to feature a date function. However, it was only offered in yellow gold and stainless steel, making this prototype even more rare. This lot features a blue dial that is known as a ‘nipple dial’ because of the shape of the hour markers. Its graduated bezel is unique in that it is only serrated in two places, with the rest of the bezel smooth.

White Gold Rolex Submariner Prototype Reference 1680 (photo: Christie's)

The white gold Oyster case of this Submariner measures 40mm in diameter and houses an automatic 1570 movement with 26 jewels. It is fitted with an 18k white gold President bracelet, adding to the sophistication of this vintage timepiece. An interesting element of this particular watch is that it has no serial number as it was not manufactured for sale. Its uniqueness comes at a price, with the estimate for this lot set between $250,000 to $500,000 US.

Visit christies.com to check out all of the vintage watches that will be available during the Rolex Afternoon portion of their Geneva auction. Check out the Rolex Models section for info on other vintage Rolex watches.

Rolex Reference 6241 John Player Special Paul Newman Daytona

In 1972, John Player & Sons sponsored the Lotus Formula One team and the company’s colors, black and gold, were featured on the automobile along with the its logo. The race car became iconic and its name has become tied to the Reference 6241, which was produced years earlier in the late 1960s.

Less than 300 of this reference were released, most cased in 18k yellow gold. The 14k gold version is even more rare, adding to the value of the current lot. It is estimated to go for anywhere between $396,000 to $793,000 US at auction due to the remarkable condition it is in. The black dial features design elements that are unique to Paul Newman Daytonas from the era. The subtle yet prominent addition of the Tiffany & Co. to this already storied watch only adds to its prestige.

Yellow Gold Rolex Reference 6098 Honeycomb Star Dial

Only eight examples of the yellow gold Rolex Reference 6098 shown above with a silvered honeycomb star dial are known to exist. Introduced in the 1950s, this simple dress watch does nothing but display the time on an elegant dial decorated with star and dagger hour markers. This timepiece will be up for auction at Christie's Rare Watches and a Rolex Afternoon auction to be held on May 15th in Geneva, Switzerland.

The rarity of the star indexes is bolstered by a double-signed case back and copper-colored gilt movement that add to the uniqueness of this vintage Rolex. The Calibre A 260 10 1/2 automatic movement features 25 jewels. The Oyster case measures 35mm in diameter and the overall bracelet length is 190mm. It is fitted with an 18k gold Jubilee bracelet and deployant clasp stamped 4/51 or 57. The estimate for this lot is between $80,000 to $120,000 US.

Yellow Gold Rolex Reference 6098 Black Lacquered Star Dial

A Reference 6098 was part of a previous Christie's auction, shown above with a black lacquered dial and leather strap. The estimate for this lot was between $110,000 and $160,000, slightly more than the current lot due to its rarity and condition. The star indexes seen on these models are more commonly associated with the "Stelline" Rolex Reference 6062, which features a full calendar and moon phases. The Honeycomb Silvered Star Dial 6098 is the only vintage Rolex model with star indexes that is part of this upcoming auction.

For more information on this reference and the other timepieces that will be up for auction during the Rolex Afternoon portion of the Christie's auction in Geneva this month, visit christies.com.

Vintage Rolex Reference 8382 Neptune Cloisonné Enamel Dial (photo: Phillips)

Fans of Roman mythology and vintage watches will be happy to see another Rolex featuring a cloisonné of Neptune enameled on the dial. The yellow gold Rolex above (Reference #8382) will be available at Phillips' The Geneva Watch Auction Five taking place on May 13-14, 2017 in Switzerland. If the dial looks familiar to you, it's because this isn't the first time the auction house will offer a gold Rolex with Neptune enameled on the dial.

The current lot features a circular 37mm 18k yellow gold case fitted with a manual calibre E80'568 with 19 jewels. It comes on an alligator leather strap with a yellow gold Rolex pin buckle. On this reference, the cloisonné enamel is set inside a circular ring of gold where the gold indexes are placed.  It also features the company name in black inside the enamel just below the gold crown at 12 o'clock.

Vintage Rolex Reference 4645 Neptune Non-Oyster (photo: Phillips)

Both dials were executed by Mrs. Nelly Richard for Stern Frères. The labor-intensive enameling process includes outlining the figures with gold wire, applying the enamel to different regions and firing in a kiln to intensify the colors and lighting effects. Though they look nearly identical, there are subtle differences between the two Neptune depictions above. You can see the differences on the lower right, with the legs and manes of the the horses varying slightly in position. The position of the waves also vary a bit between the two.

At the Phillips Rolex Milestones auction in Hong Kong last year, the Reference 4645 above sold for over $750,000 US. This piece features a square, non-Oyster dial, making it even more rare than the 8382. The estimate for the current lot is between 300,000 and 600,000 Swiss francs. For more information on the Geneva auction, visit phillips.com.

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2017 Yellow Gold Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial

While the world is focused on the model configurations that received the most attention at the Rolex stand at Baselworld 2017, there are several other models that received slight alterations that make for exciting updates. The watchmaker has added a Golfing Watches Selection to their official website featuring Day-Date 40 configurations in Everose gold, white gold, yellow gold and platinum. The gold versions now come with the option of a white lacquered dial, seen on the yellow gold Day-Date 40 above (Reference #228238).

This clean and clear dial is the perfect backdrop for yellow gold roman numeral hour markers. With the day and date apertures also in white, the dial has a uniform color that looks wonderfully balanced. The white gold Day-Date below (Reference #228239) creates a cool configuration that is ideal for those who want a classically elegant dress watch but don't like the look of yellow gold. It is the dress watch with the most modern aesthetic offered by the watchmaker this model year, even with the classical design features that are characteristic of this model.

2017 White Gold Rolex Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial

The white lacquered dial is also available on the Everose gold Day-Date 40 (Reference #228235) shown below, rounding out the gold models. It is not available on the platinum configuration, however. That model is available with the Ice Blue dial seen on their platinum models. There is also a platinum Day-Date 40 that features roman numeral hour markers with a silver dial textured with a quadrant motif.

A white dial makes the classic Rolex President's watch look modern without sacrificing its sophistication. The light backdrop makes the display very legible, especially on the rose gold version. The contrast also makes the day more distinguishable at a glance as it doesn't blend it with the dial color. Considering that this timepiece is designed to tell only the date and time, it seems rather important that those functions are displayed as clearly as possible.

2017 Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial

You don't have to be a golfer to appreciate the selection of watches Rolex chose for this featured selection. Visit rolex.com to see all of the Day-Date 40 configurations selected, including those featuring the white lacquered dial shown above. To check out the rest of the model configurations updated in 2017, take a look at my comprehensive guide here.

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2017 Gem-Set Rolex Yacht-Master 40 (photo: Rolex)

Of all the new configurations Rolex introduced at Baselworld 2017, the most colorful was the new gem-set Yacht-Master 40. The bezel is set with 32 sapphires and 8 tsavorites in rainbow colors with a triangular diamond marking 12 o'clock. While this is certainly their brightest showing this year, the configuration is not presented on the watchmaker's official website, social media accounts or official price guide.

Images and brochures for this Yacht-Master 40 (Reference # 116695 SATS) do appear in the company's press kit for Baselworld, however. Many websites, including HODINKEE, have covered it, but have not offered information about pricing and availability. According to the brochure, the only new feature for this reference is the gem-set bezel. It will be interesting to see if anything comes of it or if this is simply a concept design that will be available upon request.

The Oysterflex elastomer bracelet that is featured on the Yacht-Master made a splash at the trade show. It is now available on the 2017 Cosmograph Daytona. The Yacht-Master II had a small but significant upgrade as well, with a display featuring improved luminosity. The watchmaker also introduced new versions of the diamond Pearlmaster 39, now available in white gold. For more information on all of their 2017 model updates, check out my Baselworld 2017 post or my post featuring details on every 2017 Rolex model.

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2017 Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 in Stainless Steel (photo: Rolex)

Stainless steel is the dominant material of Rolex's 2017 new model configurations. The Lady-Datejust 28 is now available in several new 904l stainless steel and white Rolesor configurations with varied dial colors. It features a new generation calibre 2236 self-winding mechanical movement manufactures in-house by Rolex.


One of the characteristics of the 2236 movement is the Syloxi hairspring, a patented innovation using silicon to improve the performance of the oscillator. This helps the Lady-Datejust achieve Superlative Chronometer certification. This model is available on an Oyster and Jubilee bracelet with a concealed Crownclasp.

For more information on this 2017 Rolex model, visit rolex.com. To check out the entire collection of 2017 configurations, click here for live pics from the Rolex stand at Baselworld 2017 and here for professional photos and details.

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2017 Stainless Steel Rolex Yacht-Master II (photo: Rolex)

The updates made to the Yacht-Master II model in 2017 left some enthusiasts scratching their heads after its re-introduction at Baselworld. The modifications are minimal but ultimately benefit the wearer in the end. The 12 o'clock hour marker was swapped from a small square to a larger triangle. The 6 o'clock marker is now rectangular and the hands were changed to the Mercedes-shaped luminescent hands seen on other models form the Professional collection.

Lume Shot Deepsea (left) and Previous YM2 (right)

In the photo above, the previous Yacht-Master II configuration is shown to the right of the Deepsea. In the dark, the small hour markers and minimally luminescent hands are difficult to distinguish from each-other. The 2017 Yacht-Master II is shown in the lume shot below with the improved display. The hour and minute hands are far more visible now and the hour markers are easier to distinguish from each other with 12 and 6 o'clock in different shapes.

2017 Rolex Yacht-Master II Lume

The changes made to this model echo the ones made to the Explorer last year. It seems that the watchmaker is prioritizing the Chromalight luminescence of their timepieces now more than ever. For more information on the stainless steel Yacht-Master II (Reference # 116680) visit rolex.com. To check out all of their 2017 model configurations, check out my post with live pics from Baselworld 2017.

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2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary (photo: Rolex)

One of the most significant changes made to this model is the case size. The Oyster case of the 2017 Sea-Dweller measures 43mm in diameter. Another notable difference between this and past configurations is the addition of the Cyclops magnifying lens over the date aperture at 3 o'clock. In homage to the original, the model name is colored in red against the black dial. A Triplock winding crown sits between crown guards and seals the case for a depth rating of 1,220 meters.

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Side View (photo: Rolex)

The helium escape valve patented by Rolex in 1967 helps this robust diver's watch regulate pressure during the decompression phase of deep sea dives. A black Cerachrom bezel displays the 60-minute graduated scale that allows divers to time their dives. The hands and hour markers feature Chromalight luminescence for visibility in the darkness. Professional divers also benefit from the extension systems that form part of the Oysterlock safety clasp. A Fliplock extension link extends the bracelet by 26mm and the Glidelock extension system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet by 20mm in increments of 2mm.

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Lume (photo: Rolex)

The power reserve of 70 hours and functionality of the 2017 Sea-Dweller are carried out by a 3235 self-winding mechanical movement manufactured in-house by Rolex. This caliber features tech innovations like the Chronergy escapement and blue Parachrom hairspring. The suggested retail price for the 50th Anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller model is $10,800 US. For more information visit rolex.com. To check out all of the new model configurations introduced by the watchmaker at Baselworld 2017, click here.

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2017 White Rolesor Rolex Datejust 41 (photo: Rolex)

The Datejust 41 is the largest of the collection and Rolex has been rolling out different configurations in this size over the past couple years. Last year they introduced yellow and Everose Rolesor versions and at Baselworld 2017 they introduced the white Rolesor version shown above. It features a blue dial with luminescent baton-style hour markers.



The new Calibre 3235 powers the DJ41, with technology covered by 14 patents. It has a power reserve of 70 hours and features Rolex innovations like the Chronergy escapement. Its oscillator provides a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. With 31 rubies, four Microstella nuts and a high performance Paraflex shock absorber, it offers a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day.