White Gold Rolex Submariner Prototype Reference 1680

May 12, 2017

Rolex’s Submariner model has remained relatively unchanged over the years since its introduction, making prototype models like the Reference 1680 stand out amongst other vintage Subs. The White Gold Prototype below is one of three manufactured by the watchmaker in the early 1970s. It is up for auction this Monday, May 15th at Christie’s Rare Watches and a Rolex Afternoon in Geneva, just one day after the Phillip’s auction taking place over the weekend.
White Gold Submariner Prototype From the Early 1970s (photo: Christie's)
This reference was the first Submariner to be produced in a precious metal and the first to feature a date function. However, it was only offered in yellow gold and stainless steel, making this prototype even more rare. This lot features a blue dial that is known as a ‘nipple dial’ because of the shape of the hour markers. Its graduated bezel is unique in that it is only serrated in two places, with the rest of the bezel smooth.
White Gold Rolex Submariner Prototype Reference 1680 (photo: Christie's)
The white gold Oyster case of this Submariner measures 40mm in diameter and houses an automatic 1570 movement with 26 jewels. It is fitted with an 18k white gold President bracelet, adding to the sophistication of this vintage timepiece. An interesting element of this particular watch is that it has no serial number as it was not manufactured for sale. Its uniqueness comes at a price, with the estimate for this lot set between $250,000 to $500,000 US.

Visit christies.com to check out all of the vintage watches that will be available during the Rolex Afternoon portion of their Geneva auction. Check out the Rolex Models section for info on other vintage Rolex watches.

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