Vintage Rolex Reference 8382 With Neptune Cloisonné Dial

Vintage Rolex Reference 8382 Neptune Cloisonné Enamel Dial (photo: Phillips)
Fans of Roman mythology and vintage watches will be happy to see another Rolex featuring a cloisonné of Neptune enameled on the dial. The yellow gold Rolex above (Reference #8382) will be available at Phillips' The Geneva Watch Auction Five taking place on May 13-14, 2017 in Switzerland. If the dial looks familiar to you, it's because this isn't the first time the auction house will offer a gold Rolex with Neptune enameled on the dial.

The current lot features a circular 37mm 18k yellow gold case fitted with a manual calibre E80'568 with 19 jewels. It comes on an alligator leather strap with a yellow gold Rolex pin buckle. On this reference, the cloisonné enamel is set inside a circular ring of gold where the gold indexes are placed.  It also features the company name in black inside the enamel just below the gold crown at 12 o'clock.

Vintage Rolex Reference 4645 Neptune Non-Oyster (photo: Phillips)
Both dials were executed by Mrs. Nelly Richard for Stern Frères. The labor-intensive enameling process includes outlining the figures with gold wire, applying the enamel to different regions and firing in a kiln to intensify the colors and lighting effects. Though they look nearly identical, there are subtle differences between the two Neptune depictions above. You can see the differences on the lower right, with the legs and manes of the the horses varying slightly in position. The position of the waves also vary a bit between the two.

At the Phillips Rolex Milestones auction in Hong Kong last year, the Reference 4645 above sold for over $750,000 US. This piece features a square, non-Oyster dial, making it even more rare than the 8382. The estimate for the current lot is between 300,000 and 600,000 Swiss francs. For more information on the Geneva auction, visit


2017 Gold Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial

2017 Yellow Gold Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial
While the world is focused on the model configurations that received the most attention at the Rolex stand at Baselworld 2017, there are several other models that received slight alterations that make for exciting updates. The watchmaker has added a Golfing Watches Selection to their official website featuring Day-Date 40 configurations in Everose gold, white gold, yellow gold and platinum. The gold versions now come with the option of a white lacquered dial, seen on the yellow gold Day-Date 40 above (Reference #228238).

This clean and clear dial is the perfect backdrop for yellow gold roman numeral hour markers. With the day and date apertures also in white, the dial has a uniform color that looks wonderfully balanced. The white gold Day-Date below (Reference #228239) creates a cool configuration that is ideal for those who want a classically elegant dress watch but don't like the look of yellow gold. It is the dress watch with the most modern aesthetic offered by the watchmaker this model year, even with the classical design features that are characteristic of this model.
2017 White Gold Rolex Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial
The white lacquered dial is also available on the Everose gold Day-Date 40 (Reference #228235) shown below, rounding out the gold models. It is not available on the platinum configuration, however. That model is available with the Ice Blue dial seen on their platinum models. There is also a platinum Day-Date 40 that features roman numeral hour markers with a silver dial textured with a quadrant motif.

A white dial makes the classic Rolex President's watch look modern without sacrificing its sophistication. The light backdrop makes the display very legible, especially on the rose gold version. The contrast also makes the day more distinguishable at a glance as it doesn't blend it with the dial color. Considering that this timepiece is designed to tell only the date and time, it seems rather important that those functions are displayed as clearly as possible.

2017 Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 40 with White Lacquered Dial
You don't have to be a golfer to appreciate the selection of watches Rolex chose for this featured selection. Visit to see all of the Day-Date 40 configurations selected, including those featuring the white lacquered dial shown above. To check out the rest of the model configurations updated in 2017, take a look at my comprehensive guide here.


Vintage Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 With Explorer Underline Dial

Vintage Rolex Submariner "Explorer Underline" (Reference #5513)
For those unfamiliar with vintage Rolex watches, the model shown above may look a little confusing. A Submariner with Arabic numerals? Combining characteristics of two popular Rolex professional watches, the vintage Submariner Reference 5513 features a graduated bezel with a dial display reminiscent of the Explorer model. This rare configuration will be auctioned by Christie's in Geneva, Switzerland on May 15th, 2017 as part of their 'Rare Watches and a Rolex Afternoon' auction. 

This rare stainless steel Sub was introduced around 1963 and features a tropical dial with an underline below the model name, just above 6 o'clock. The rationale behind adding a small underline on the dial has never been confirmed by the watchmaker. But regardless of its purpose, the rarity of such a dial configuration, including the Arabic numerals at 3,6, and 9, gives this vintage model an estimated value of $120,000 - $200,000 USD.

Vintage Rolex Submariner "Explorer Underline" (Reference #5513) Close Up
It features a screw-back steel case that measures 35mm in diameter, with pointed crown guards and a riveted Oyster bracelet in stainless steel. Its 60-minute graduated scale is imprinted on the black bezel, as is characteristic of Submariner models. The Mercedes-shaped hour hand and markers have aged to a tan color that compliments the tropical dial coloring. This wristwatch features a depth rating of 200 meters and is powered by a Calibre 1030 with 26 jewels. 

While legacy and rarity certainly play an important role in the value of this vintage Rolex, its unique aesthetic should not be overlooked. The Explorer model is loved by watch enthusiasts with minimalist design preferences and the symmetrical dial of this Submariner configuration speaks to those tastes while offering the functionality of a diver's watch. Check out all of the wristwatch models up for auction in Geneva next month by visiting

Introducing a Comprehensive Guide to Rolex 2017 Watch Models

After much anticipation and speculation about what Rolex would present at Baselworld 2017, we can now look back at their new model introductions with a critical eye. There have been mixed reviews about their 2017 model configurations, as is usually the case, but most of the updates have been well-received by enthusiasts. The watchmaker didn't actually introduce any new models this year. Instead, they focused their presentation on new material configurations, mostly in combinations of stainless steel and precious metals.

The 2017 Rolex watch models come at a lower price point than configurations introduced in years past. This comes after the watchmaker made pricing available on their website for their most modestly-priced timepieces. It is clear that they are taking a pragmatic approach to making money while the Swiss watch market has seen years of decline in wristwatch sales. Stainless steel configurations offer the best opportunity for Rolex to take care of their bottom line while sales of precious metal timepieces remain stagnant.

I have posted live photos of the Rolex stand at Baselworld and information about their new model introductions previously. Price guides for the 2017 Sky-Dweller and Daytona configurations are available in the Rolex Shopping Guide section. I have consolidated all of the information coming out of the trade show below for a comprehensive look at the 2017 models including new features and pricing.

2017 White Rolesor Rolex Sky-Dweller

2017 White Rolesor Rolex Sky-Dweller (Reference # 326934)
There weren't too many rumors or predictions about the Sky-Dweller model leading up to Baselworld this year. Rolex's decision to change it up came as a welcomed surprised to enthusiasts around the world. Dealers are already creating waiting lists for the white Rolesor version shown in the photo above. Time will tell if the fervor for this configuration will match that of last year's ceramic Daytona, but for now it is safe to say that the 2017 Sky-Dweller is the runaway hit from the international trade show.

New Features & Options
The 2017 Sky-Dweller model configurations feature the same Calibre 9001 self-winding mechanical movement that the precious metal versions do. Their functionality, therefore, remains the same. However, the display and materials have been modified to make way for a set of two-tone Rolesor configurations. In addition to white Rolesor, there are also yellow gold two-tone versions available with either white, black, blue or champagne dials. The hour markers are now rectangular and the dial color is uniform with the off-center 24-hour disc.

I have added pricing for every 2017 Sky-Dweller configuration, including precious metals, in a price guide for easy price comparisons. The white Rolesor version shown in the photo above is the most affordable, priced at $13,700 (suggested retail price in USD, may vary from dealer to dealer around the world).

2017 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona on Oysterflex

2017 Rolex Daytona on Oysterflex (Reference #116518LN)
One of the predictions that was prevalent early this year was the addition of the Oysterflex elastomer bracelet to new model configurations in 2017. My guess was that it would be featured on the 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller, but as it turns out the precious metal Daytona configurations were the ones to see an Oysterflex configuration this year. The Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert that was added to the stainless steel Daytona last year was also added to the new precious metal versions.

New Features & Options
The Rolex Daytona on Oysterflex is available in yellow gold, white gold or Everose gold. All of the Oysterflex configurations come with the black Cerachrom bezel insert that displays the tachymeter. A gold Oysterlock safety clasp is featured on the elastomer bracelet for security. The Everose version is available with either an ivory, black, chocolate brown or pink dial.

I created a pricing guide for every 2017 Daytona model, including the yellow gold Oysterflex configuration shown above, priced at $26,200. With the addition of the rubber watchband, there are now precious metal Daytona models at a more affordable price to the consumer.

2017 Rolex Yacht-Master II

2017 Rolex Yacht-Master II (Rerence #116680)
To say that Rolex introduced a new Yacht-Maser II configuration in 2017 would be a bit of an exaggeration. Like they did to the Explorer model last year, the watchmaker improved the display of the YM2. It is a minimal change that yields maximum results, however. As you can see in the lume photos I posted previously, the Chromalight display has benefited greatly from this tweak and the end user will benefit from it in the end.

New Features & Options
The hands of the previous Yacht-Master II model were swapped our for the Mercedes-shaped hands characteristic of most Rolex professional models. The small, square hour markers were enlarged and the marker at 12 o'clock is now triangular with the 6 o'clock marker rectangular. This allows the wearer to better tell the time in the dark with minimal design changes to the original model. All other features and options remain the same.

The good news for consumers is that the minimal changes made to this model come at no additional cost. The pricing for all Yacht-Master II models remain the same, with the stainless steel Yacht-Master II shown retailing for approximately $17,800.

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary Edition

2017 50th Anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller (Reference #126600)
The most talked-about model prior to Baselworld was certainly the Sea-Dweller. With the 50th anniversary of its introduction celebrated in 2017, it was a no-brainer that there would be a new edition this year. However, the modifications to this model were surprising to most. I compared the new version to the previous model in a post that lists the differences between the configurations in detail. Even though most people wouldn't have predicted the updates, they are welcomed by most, with the exception of those who have issues with the Cyclops magnifying lens.

New Features & Options
The addition of the Cyclops magnifying lens was one of the most surprising new features on the 2017 Sea-Dweller. The Deepsea and Sea-Dweller models have never featured date magnification in previous years. The case was upsized to 43mm, just 1mm smaller than the Deepsea in diameter now. The name is colored in red on the dial in homage to the 1967 introductory model configuration.

The suggested retail price for the 2017 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller is $10,800. This puts it over $2,000 more expensive than the Submariner Date and about $700 less expensive than the Deepsea.

2017 White Rolesor Rolex Datejust 41

2017 White Rolesor Rolex Datejust 41 (Reference #126334)
The classic Rolex Datejust is now available in a combination of white gold and 904l stainless steel with a case diameter of 41mm. The combination of steel and white gold with a blue dial was a common theme at the Rolex stand, with Sky-Dweller and Oyster Perpetual models also featuring the color combination.

New Features & Options
The Datejust was presented as shown above and also with diamond hour markers and Jubilee bracelets. One of the most important new features on this model is not aesthetic, though. A new Calibre 3235 now gives this model a 70 hour power reserve, increased from 48 hours in previous model years.

The Datejust 41 shown above is priced at approximately $8,900. This is the most varied model, however, so pricing on different configurations varies accordingly.

2017 Stainless Steel Rolex Lady-Datejust 28

2017 Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 (Reference #279160)
According to Vogue magazine, pink is the hottest color amongst Millennials. Rolex isn't in the habit of capitalizing off of watch trends, but their latest Lady-Datejust 28 configuration offers a pink dial at a price that is somewhat affordable to younger consumers. Like the Datejust 41, it is available in 904l stainless steel and white gold as shown in the photo above.

New Features & Options
When it comes to the Datejust, there are more options available than with any other Rolex model. It is also the most varied in terms of case sizing, with cases as small as 28mm and as large as 41mm. It is no longer available in 26mm, though. The only model available in that size is now the stainless steel Oyster Perpetual. The Lady-Datejust 28 benefits from a new generation Calibre 2236 featuring a Syloxi hairspring.

The Lady-Datejust 28 in white Rolesor retails for about $6,000. Depending on the configuration, however, the prices go up to $54,300.

2017 Gem-Set Rolex Yacht-Master 40

2017 Gem-Set Rolex Yacht-Master 40 (Reference #116695 SATS)
The gem-set Yacht-Master 40 shown above is the most unique model configuration introduced at Baselworld. It has been met with confusion by enthusiasts and dealers. Some even liken the aesthetic of the rainbow-colored gems that cover the bezel to Candy Crush. While brands like Moschino embrace the likeness of the colorful video game, it seems a bit out of place for Rolex, especially on the rose gold Yacht-Master 40. This configuration is likely designed to appeal to shoppers in Dubai and other areas that embrace diamond and gems on their timepieces.

New Features & Options
The only new feature on this configuration is the addition of the 32 sapphires, 8 tsavorites and triangular diamond onto the bezel of the Yacht-Master model that was originally introduced in 2015.

There is no price listed for this configuration in the official price guide provided by the watchmaker. It is not listed on their official website, either. The price is likely available upon request.

2017 Rolex Cellini Moonphase

2017 Rolex Cellini Moonphase (Reference #50535)
The Cellini Moonphase shown above is the pièce de résistance of the 2017 Rolex models. It features a beautiful display that harkens back to the mid-twentieth century. The moonphase indicator is colored in deep blue to contrast with the white dial. The case, hands and markers are made from Everose gold and the strap comes in dark brown alligator leather. It is secured by a gold Cronclasp in 18 ct Everose gold.

New Features & Options
While there is only one option for the new Moonphase, it certainly meets the needs of anyone looking for a classic dress watch with a low profile and vibrant display. The moon appliqué is made using a rhodium-plated meteorite. This makes the pattern of each one unique, as the material used is not found on earth. Another excellent addition to this model is the date displayed around the circumference of the dial and indicated by a light blue date hand.

The Cellini Moonphase is priced at $25,500. It is the most expensive of the collection, which is priced in the $15,000 to $20,000 range.

Rolex has added most of these models to their official website at, with the exception of the gem-set Yacht-Master 40. You can watch short videos of each model on their YouTube channel and other official social media accounts. While the 2017 models are ready for viewing, they will not hit dealers for purchase before the summer. However, if you are interested in any of the more popular configurations, it would be wise to call your trusted Authorized Dealer and place your name on the list for it. After all, there are still people waiting to get their hands on the ceramic Daytona introduced at Baselworld 2016.


Every Rolex Tells a Story: Sylvia Earle

Every Rolex Tells a Story: Sylvia Earle (photo: Rolex)
Sylvia Earle is a marine biologist on a mission to save the ocean. She has been exploring the ocean and advocating for its protection for decades. Her Rolex-sponsored global initiative, Mission Blue, works to engage the public to support the protection of Hope Spots around the world. Hope Spots are areas of the ocean that are critical to the health of the ocean.

Rolex recently added Earle to their Every Rolex Tells a Story section. She made her first Rolex purchase after seeing one on a fellow diver while in the Florida Keys. The underwater capability combined with the watch's classic elegance made it ideal for an ocean explorer that also attends formal events. Earle is also supportive of Rolex's involvement with exploration and excellence.

In the TED Talk below, the marine biologist expresses her wish that we protect Earth's blue heart, the ocean. In it she expresses the importance of exploring the Mariana Trench, something that fellow Rolex owner James Cameron did a few years later, taking the Rolex Deepsea Challenge along for the ride. Rolex is also a partner of TED, helping them develop features on their "Surprise Me" app.

Visit to check out Sylvia Earle's story and Rolex timepiece. To support Mission Blue with a donation or to learn more about how they are working to protect the ocean, visit


The Enigmatic Introduction of the 2017 Gem-Set Rolex Yacht-Master

2017 Gem-Set Rolex Yacht-Master 40 (photo: Rolex)
Of all the new configurations Rolex introduced at Baselworld 2017, the most colorful was the new gem-set Yacht-Master 40. The bezel is set with 32 sapphires and 8 tsavorites in rainbow colors with a triangular diamond marking 12 o'clock. While this is certainly their brightest showing this year, the configuration is not presented on the watchmaker's official website, social media accounts or official price guide.

Images and brochures for this Yacht-Master 40 (Reference # 116695 SATS) do appear in the company's press kit for Baselworld, however. Many websites, including HODINKEE, have covered it, but have not offered information about pricing and availability. According to the brochure, the only new feature for this reference is the gem-set bezel. It will be interesting to see if anything comes of it or if this is simply a concept design that will be available upon request.

The Oysterflex elastomer bracelet that is featured on the Yacht-Master made a splash at the trade show. It is now available on the 2017 Cosmograph Daytona. The Yacht-Master II had a small but significant upgrade as well, with a display featuring improved luminosity. The watchmaker also introduced new versions of the diamond Pearlmaster 39, now available in white gold. For more information on all of their 2017 model updates, check out my Baselworld 2017 post or my post featuring details on every 2017 Rolex model.


Sea-Dweller 4000 vs 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller Model Comparison

Sea-Dweller 4000 vs 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller Model Comparison
Sea-Dweller 4000 (left) vs  50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller (right)
The arrival of the 50th Anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller model in 2017 signals a departure from previous model configurations. The model used to share similarities to the Submariner, but now is closer to the Deepsea in case size. However, some aspects of the Sub have made their way onto the Sea-Dweller, giving it an interested cross-section of characteristics from both of Rolex's most popular dive watches.

2017 Sea-Dweller Case Size & Aesthetic Updates

The previous Sea-Dweller 4000 model shared the same 40mm case size as the Submariner. In its new configuration, the case size has been increased to 43mm in diameter, a difference of just 1mm from the 44mm case of the Deepsea. The model name is now colored red, a design element pulled from the original SD model introduced in 1967. Perhaps the most controversial aesthetic update to this model is the addition of the Cyclops magnifying lens over the date aperture at 3 o'clock. Some appreciate the magnification while other find the glare distracting and prefer models without the iconic innovation.

Movement, Power Reserve & Pricing

In its 50th Anniversary edition, the Sea-Dweller is powered by a new-generation Calibre 3235, replacing the Calibre 3135 in the previous model. The new self-winding mechanical movement, manufactured by the watchmaker, increases the power reserve from 48 hours to 70 hours. This reserve is greater than both the current Submariner and Deepsea models. These improvements come at a price, though. The previous SD4K had a suggested retail price of 9,900 Swiss francs while this new configuration (Reference # 126600) has a suggested retail price of 10,800 Swiss francs.


2017 Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 in Stainless Steel

2017 Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 in Stainless Steel (photo: Rolex)
Stainless steel is the dominant material of Rolex's 2017 new model configurations. The Lady-Datejust 28 is now available in several new 904l stainless steel and white Rolesor configurations with varied dial colors. It features a new generation calibre 2236 self-winding mechanical movement manufactures in-house by Rolex.

One of the characteristics of the 2236 movement is the Syloxi hairspring, a patented innovation using silicon to improve the performance of the oscillator. This helps the Lady-Datejust achieve Superlative Chronometer certification. This model is available on an Oyster and Jubilee bracelet with a concealed Crownclasp.

For more information on this 2017 Rolex model, visit To check out the entire collection of 2017 configurations, click here for live pics from the Rolex stand at Baselworld 2017 and here for professional photos and details.


2017 Rolex Yacht-Master II Features Improved Chromalight Display

2017 Stainless Steel Rolex Yacht-Master II (photo: Rolex)
The updates made to the Yacht-Master II model in 2017 left some enthusiasts scratching their heads after its re-introduction at Baselworld. The modifications are minimal but ultimately benefit the wearer in the end. The 12 o'clock hour marker was swapped from a small square to a larger triangle. The 6 o'clock marker is now rectangular and the hands were changed to the Mercedes-shaped luminescent hands seen on other models form the Professional collection.

Lume Shot Deepsea (left) and Previous YM2 (right)
In the photo above, the previous Yacht-Master II configuration is shown to the right of the Deepsea. In the dark, the small hour markers and minimally luminescent hands are difficult to distinguish from each-other. The 2017 Yacht-Master II is shown in the lume shot below with the improved display. The hour and minute hands are far more visible now and the hour markers are easier to distinguish from each other with 12 and 6 o'clock in different shapes.

2017 Rolex Yacht-Master II Lume
The changes made to this model echo the ones made to the Explorer last year. It seems that the watchmaker is prioritizing the Chromalight luminescence of their timepieces now more than ever. For more information on the stainless steel Yacht-Master II (Reference # 116680) visit To check out all of their 2017 model configurations, check out my post with live pics from Baselworld 2017.


2017 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Price Guide

With the addition of the Oysterflex configurations introduced at Baselworld 2017, there are currently 11 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona model configurations to choose from. The suggested retail prices shown in the table below are direct from the watchmaker's price book. However, pricing at Authorized Dealers around the world may vary. Prices shown in USD. 

Pricing for Every 2017 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Model Configuration

Reference Number
Price USD
Stainless Steel Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Yellow Rolesor Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Yellow Rolesor Diamond Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Yellow Gold Daytona Oysterflex Bracelet
Yellow Gold Daytona Oyster Bracelet
White Gold Daytona Oysterflex Bracelet
White Gold Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Everose Gold Daytona Oysterflex Bracelet
Everose Gold Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Platinum Daytona Oyster Bracelet
Platinum Diamond Daytona Oyster Bracelet
For details on the new Daytona model on Oysterflex, click here or visit the Rolex Models page.


2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary Configuration

Rolex introduced a 50th Anniversary edition of the Sea-Dweller model (Reference # 126600) at Baselworld 2017. It features many of the technical innovations the watchmaker has perfected on other models over the years. This configuration also has characteristics of the original Sea-Dweller model introduced in 1967. 

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary (photo: Rolex)
One of the most significant changes made to this model is the case size. The Oyster case of the 2017 Sea-Dweller measures 43mm in diameter. Another notable difference between this and past configurations is the addition of the Cyclops magnifying lens over the date aperture at 3 o'clock. In homage to the original, the model name is colored in red against the black dial. A Triplock winding crown sits between crown guards and seals the case for a depth rating of 1,220 meters.

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Side View (photo: Rolex)
The helium escape valve patented by Rolex in 1967 helps this robust diver's watch regulate pressure during the decompression phase of deep sea dives. A black Cerachrom bezel displays the 60-minute graduated scale that allows divers to time their dives. The hands and hour markers feature Chromalight luminescence for visibility in the darkness. Professional divers also benefit from the extension systems that form part of the Oysterlock safety clasp. A Fliplock extension link extends the bracelet by 26mm and the Glidelock extension system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet by 20mm in increments of 2mm.

2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Lume (photo: Rolex)
The power reserve of 70 hours and functionality of the 2017 Sea-Dweller are carried out by a 3235 self-winding mechanical movement manufactured in-house by Rolex. This caliber features tech innovations like the Chronergy escapement and blue Parachrom hairspring. The suggested retail price for the 50th Anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller model is $10,800 US. For more information visit To check out all of the new model configurations introduced by the watchmaker at Baselworld 2017, click here.


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