The Rolex Oyster Case in the Words of Hans Wilsdorf

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Early Rolex Oyster Ads 
“In those days, the idea of a watch impermeable to water appeared quite utopian and without future to the majority of manufacturers and technicians who did not, in fact, see its necessity or utility. At trade congresses and meetings, the ‘waterproof’ watch was held to scorn by specialists and a discussion of the problem provoked sarcasm rather than useful and objective arguments.” Speaking in 1945, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf looks back at the reception his Oyster innovation received in the watchmaking community of the late 1920s. 
First Rolex Oyster, 1926
“Other manufacturers had to follow the movement which was to exercise an enormous influence on the entire Swiss watchmaking industry... Statistics show that since 1927 waterproof wristwatches, to a value of more than one thousand million Swiss francs, have been exported throughout the five continents. Another and no less tangible result of the development of the waterproof watch is the profound modification it has brought to the manufacture of watch cases generally in Switzerland. Old machinery, incapable of turning out such delicate work, had to be replaced by new and more accurate machines. Millions of francs were invested in this modern technique and the machine industry entered a new era of prosperity. The Swiss watch-case industry itself regained its position as the first in the world and this at a time when it seemed to have most serious foreign competition to face.” 

Hans Wilsdorf Quote, 1927
“The fact that, like an oyster, it can remain an unlimited time under water without detriment to its parts, gave me the idea of christening it the ‘Rolex Oyster’, the name under which it has become famous throughout the world.” 

Rolex 3186 Self-Winding Mechanical Movement

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Rolex 3186 Movement (photo: Rolex)
Manufactured in-house by Rolex, the 3186 self-winding mechanical movement powers the popular GMT-Master II model in its 40 millimeter configuration. According to an article by luxurytyme.com, this movement was also used on the last five digit reference Explorer II. After that, the watchmaker sized up the Exp2 to 42 millimeters and began using the 3187 movement it uses to this day. In addition to the hour, minute and second hands, this movement offers a GMT complication with a 24-hour hand and display.

Like most of the movements that have come from their manufacture since the early 2000s, the Calibre 3186 is equipped with Rolex's blue Parachrom hairspring. It beats with an oscillation frequency of 28,800 beats per minute which allows for optimal precision and reliability. Since 2005, the watchmaker has used their Paraflex shock absorbers to increase shock resistance in their movements. To this day, the movements are powered by a Perpetual rotor that the watchmaker patented in 1931. A half-moon shaped weight rotates bidirectionally with the movement of the wrist to capture the energy required to power the movement.

Of of Rolex's movements undergo rigorous testing to ensure their precision before going out to customers. They are all certified as chronometers by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The watchmaker also adds their own certification indicted by a green seal that certifies their watches as Superlative Chronometers. For more information on Rolex watchmaking, visit rolex.com.

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Will Rolex's Oysterflex Bracelet Make a Splash at Baselworld 2017?

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Introduced in 2015 on the Yacht-Master 40 model, the Oysterflex bracelet offers the comfort and unique style of an elastomer strap with the technical innovation that Rolex is known for. As I mentioned in my post about my Rolex Baselworld 2017 predictions, it is speculated that this bracelet will be featured on more configurations than it is now. The question that remains is if it will be featured only on the Yacht-Master 40 or if they will also release an Oysterflex configuration for for another model. 
Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet (photo: Rolex/Thomas Hensinger)
Developed and patented by Rolex, the Oysterflex has a metal blade made from a flexible titanium and nickel alloy at its core that attaches the clasp to the case. The blade is then enveloped with a black elastomer that is both durable and resistant to environmental effects. It is equipped with a longitudinal cushion system to stabilize the watch on the wrist. The photo above shows the bracelet with a rose gold Oysterlock safety clasp as it appears on the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40 model. 

If the watchmaker does add the Oysterflex to additional configurations, I believe it will keep its black color but maybe appear on white gold or stainless steel models in addition to the Everose YM. If they do go ahead and add it to another model, my prediction would be that they would add it to the Sea-Dweller 4000 as 2017 represents an anniversary year for the model, something Rolex likes to commemorate with its latest innovations. For more information on the 2016 Yacht-Master 40 model that features the Oysterflex, check out my post here. To check out all of Rolex's bracelet options, check out my post here. 

What's the Difference Between Rolex Glidelock and Fliplock?

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Rolex offers a few different extension systems for their clasps, each with a different way of adding length to the bracelet. For their diver's watches, they have have a combination of systems, the Glidelock and Fliplock extension systems, that help the bracelets of their dive watches fit comfortably over a wetsuit. 

Oysterlock Clasp of the Submariner (left) and Oysterlock Clasp of Deepsea with Rack Lifted
Using a toothed panel located under the clasp cover, the Glidelock extension system allows the wearer to glide the extension to increase the length of the bracelet by 20 millimeters in increments of 2 millimeters. The Submariner, Submariner Date and Sea-Dweller 4000 all feature the Glidelock, allowing their bracelets to be fitted over a 3 millimeter thick dive suit. The Deepsea model features a full diver's extension, combining the Glidelock with a rack that lifts, as shown in the photo above, and a Fliplock extension system that increases the bracelet length by an additional 26 millimeters, allowing it to fit over a 7 millimeter thick wetsuit.

Fully Extended Bracelets of the Submariner (top) and Deepsea (bottom)
Aside from the additional length added to the bracelet of the Deepsea, illustrated in the photo above, the lifting of the Glidelock rack allows the wearer to adjust the length with the watch on the wrist. You can see the extended Fliplock link on the Deepsea bracelet extended from the clasp in the photo. The Sea-Dweller 4000 also features a Fliplock extension, but only the Deepsea comes with the lifting rack to adjust the length without removing the watch. For more information on Rolex's extension systems, check out my post here.

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Rolex 2236 Movement Featuring a Syloxi Hairspring

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Rolex 2236 Self-winding Mechanical Movement (photo: Rolex)
At Baselworld 2014, Rolex introduced the 2236 self-winding mechanical movement featuring a silicon Syloxi hairspring in their Pearlmaster 34 model. Manufactured by Rolex in-house, it is the first movement to feature a hairspring made of silicon, a departure from the blue Parachrom hairspring the watchmaker introduced in 2000. To date, the Syloxi hairspring has only been used in women's models, though, with the Parachrom hairspring in most of their movements for men's models. 

With a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing and a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, calibre 2236 features center hour, minute and seconds hands with an instantaneous date at 3 o'clock and a rapid-setting stop-seconds that allows the wearer to set the time precisely to the second. Inside the movement case, it features high-precision regulating with two gold Microstella nuts traversing the balance bridge, Paraflex shock absorbers, 31 rubies and a balance wheel with variable inertia. 

The benefit of using silicon as the material for a hairspring is the lack of magnetism and lubrication of the lightweight material. Rolex spent several years developing the Syloxi hairspring and has five patents on the technology. For more information, check out my post on the silicon hairspring technology here. For more information on Rolex movements and technical innovations, visit the Tech section of this site. 

Rolex Syloxi Hairspring

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Rolex introduced the Syloxi Hairspring for their ladies models in 2014. The hairspring and balance wheel, shown in the photo below, help regulate the oscillations of the movement. The hairspring must be resistant to shocks, spikes in temperature and magnetism to ensure the precision of the timepiece. 

Rolex's Syloxi Hairspring (photo: Rolex/Christophe Lauffenburger)
The use of silicon for the hairspring is a patented innovation that substantially improves the performance of the oscillator as compared to traditional ferromagnetic hairsprings. The patent itself covers the unique characteristics of this hairspring. The silicon and silicon oxide composite used is the first part of the patent. The geometry that optimizes the isochronism and its chronometric regularity is also part of it. There is also a patent for the way that Rolex fixes the end of the hairspring to the balance staff and the balance bridge, enhancing its flatness and concentricity. 

Rolex utilizes a high-precision manufacturing process known as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) to make the Syloxi Hairspring. It was introduced in their 2236 movement, manufactured in-house by the watchmaker for their women's watches. This increases its power reserve to approximately 55 hours. 

Does Rolex Make Their Own Movements?

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Over the past couple of decades Rolex has rolled out several tech innovations that have allowed them to almost fully integrate their wristwatch production. All of the models currently in production at their facilities in Switzerland are equipped with self-winding mechanical movements that are made in-house by the watchmaker and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). 

Photo of a Rolex Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
Rolex Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
The movements used in men's Rolex models are equipped with a blue Parachrom hairspring patented by the watchmaker. The alloy used for the hairspring consists of niobium, zirconium and oxygen. It is insensitive to magnetic fields and able to compensate for temperature variations, allowing it to remain precise even in less than ideal conditions. Rolex introduced the Syloxi hairspring, made using silicon, in 2014 for the lady's models.

High performance lubricants, gold Microstella nuts and a traversing balance bridge also help make Rolex's in-house movements oscillate at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. In 2005, they introduced the Paraflex shock absorber that doubled the shock absorption of previous movements. The watchmaker continues to integrate their production processes, giving them more control over the quality and precision of their timepieces.

For more information about the tech innovations that have gone into producing Rolex's in-house movements, check out my article of the Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations. For details on individual movements, Rolex proprietary materials and more, visit the Tech section of this blog.

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Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certification

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All Rolex movements receive certification from the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (or COSC) before going into their respective cases. This certifies that those movements are precise within up to -4/+6 seconds a day. After the watches are assembled, they receive an in-house certification by Rolex known as the Superlative Chronometer Certification that certifies their precision up to -2/+2 seconds per day. 

Photo of Rolex Superlative Chronometer Green Seal (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Superlative Chronometer Green Seal (photo: Rolex)
The green seal shown above comes with all new Rolex wristwatches based on this certification. They also have the words 'Superlative Chronometer' inscribed on their dials. The certification consists of testing precision, waterproofness, power reserve and self-winding.

The precision of each fully assembled watch is tested over a 24 hour cycle. Waterproofness is tested by submerging each watch into a hyperbaric tank. The water pressure in the tank is set to the equivalent of 10% over the depth rating for most models, 25% for dive watches.

All of these extra steps are taken by the watchmaker to guarantee that all of their watches meet their own standards of quality and excellence in Swiss watchmaking.

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Rolex 3235 Movement

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Rolex's Datejust 41 and Pearlmaster 39 models come equipped with their new generation movement, Calibre 3235. This movement is protected by 14 patents and features many of the watchmaker's latest tech innovations, including their blue Parachrom hairspring and Chronergy escapement. 

Rolex 3235 Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Mayer)
This movement improves upon the precision, reliability and power reserve of its predecessors. With a 70 hour power reserve, it truly does represent the future of Rolex's integrated watch production. All Rolex watches are subject to extensive in-house testing to ensure that they will meet the requirements of a superlative chronometer.

In order for their timepieces to receive the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certification, they must function at a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. Rolex has updated their certification requirements as recently as 2015 to ensure that all of their timepieces are worthy of their green seal.

The video clip below provides some insight into the process of putting together a Rolex movement at their production site in Bienne, Switzerland.

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Rolex Ringlock System

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The Rolex Deepsea model has a depth rating of 3,900 meters due, in part, to its patented Ringlock case architecture. After spending years conducting research and sending experimental dive watches into the deepest parts of the ocean, the watchmaker has come up with a system that allows the case to sustain the massive pressure placed upon it in the deep. 

Diagram of Rolex Deepsea's Ringlock System (source: Rolex)
Diagram of Rolex Deepsea's Ringlock System (source: Rolex)
The diagram above shows all of the elements of the Ringlock system. The middle case is stamped out of a solid block of 904L stainless steel and is equipped with a Triplock winding crown. Inside the case is a 5.5 mm thick domed sapphire crystal with a crystal gasket. Responsible for withstanding the water pressure, a nitrogen-alloyed steel compression ring sits under the crystal. Underneath, a grade 5 titanium case back is held against the case by a screw-down case back ring.

The helium escape valve is also a component of protecting the case in the deep. Helium enters the case in the deep and this valve allows it to escape without damaging the case on the way back up. All Deepsea models go through rigorous waterproof testing in a hyperbaric tank designed by Rolex with COMEX before being released into the market.

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Rolex Precious Stones

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As they are with most of their materials, Rolex is meticulous about the selection and setting of their precious stones. All of the diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires used in their watches are inspected by their in-house gemology department to ensure quality. 

Photo of Rolex Precious Stones
Rolex Precious Stones (photo: Rolex/Cédric Widmer)
The criteria used by Rolex to determine diamond quality are carat, cut, clarity and color. All diamonds must be clear and colorless. In terms of cut, they only use full, brilliant, trapeze or baguette cut stones from the top of the professional classification scale. For colored stones, they use professional machinery usually only found in gemological laboratories to make sure that all stones selected are uniform in color.

Aside from choosing the highest quality precious stones, Rolex also ensures that the stones are set properly by hiring skilled gem-setters who specialize in bead setting, channel setting, bezel setting and prong setting. Their gemology department is located in their Chêne-Bourg site in Geneva, Switzerland.

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Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations

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Photo of Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations
Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations (photo: Rolex)
Over the past few decades, Rolex has introduced more tech innovations into the market than they have new wristwatch models. The company follows a vertically integrated business model that focuses on developing their own watch parts in-house. This allows them to control the quality of their products and continue their legacy of innovation. 

 The 5 tech innovations listed below were developed and patented by Rolex over the last century and continue to differentiate the watchmaker from its competitors. Click on the innovation name for more detailed information. 

Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring 

Photo of Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring (photo: Rolex)
Rolex patented their blue Parachrom hairspring in 2005. The hairspring is part of the oscillator, the part of the movement that regulates the energy coming from the mainspring by way of the escapement. The accuracy of the oscillator determines the precision of the watch.

The blue Parachrom hairspring was developed by fusing niobium and zirconium with a precise amount of oxygen. The chemical composition of the hairspring makes it more resistant to magnetism and shocks, making the timepiece up to ten times more accurate. It gets its blue color from the patented surface treatment used on the hairspring. 

It took several years for the physicists and materials engineers at Rolex to come up with the chemical composition of the alloy and surface treatment that give the hairspring its distinctive blue color. The blue color itself is a technical achievement reserved only for the most prestigious watchmakers. 


Photo of Rolex Chronergy Escapement
Rolex Chronergy Escapement (photo: Rolex)
The escapement of a mechanical watch movement transfers the energy from the mainspring to the oscillator. It is responsible for the ticking noise that is associated with mechanical watch movements. The escapement is composed of four parts: the escapement wheel, pallet fork, pallet bridge and the roller. The friction caused by these metal components is offset by rubies and patented lubricants, allowing the escapement to tick for many years without requiring replacement. 

The Chronergy component of escapement is a newly developed version of the Swiss lever escapement that uses geometry to improve its efficiency by 15%. The escapement is also cut out to reduce its weight and minimize the effects of inertia. The escapement wheel is made of nickel-phosphorous to protect it form magnetic interference. 


Photo of Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber
Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber (photo: Rolex)
Rolex patented the Paraflex Shock Absorber in 2005 to replace the KIF shock absorption system they used previously. This newly developed shock absorption system is said to absorb up to 50% more chock than other systems available on the market. 

The shock absorption system is an important component of the mechanical watch movement. It protects the oscillator and other fragile pieces from shocks that could lower their accuracy. For Rolex, it seems logical for them to have developed this innovation in tandem with their blue Parachrom hairspring, ensuring that their newly developed parts are protected in the long run.


Photo of Rolex Perpetual Rotor
Rolex Perpetual Rotor (photo: Rolex)
Patented by Rolex in 1931, the perpetual rotor is one of the most important tech innovations in the history of the watchmaker. The first perpetual rotor with an oscillating weight, this innovation utilized the movement of the wrist and the laws of physics to provide power to the movement without requiring the wearer to wind the crown. 

The half-moon shaped oscillating weight completes 360º rotations and, in doing so, powers the mainspring. It is equipped with a clutch system that prevents the rotor from overwinding the mainspring, creating a harmonious and efficient power source for the movement. 

The patent for the perpetual rotor expired in 1948, allowing the entire watchmaking industry to adopt this technology. This made automatic or self-winding wristwatch movements the new industry standard. 


Photo of Rolex Oyster Case
Rolex Oyster Case (photo: Rolex)
Introduced in 1926, the Oyster case is perhaps the most recognizable innovation of the watchmaker to date. The original Oyster case used a patented system of screwing the bezel, case back and winding crown to the middle of the case, creating a hermetic seal that protected the Oyster watch up to 100 meters underwater. 

All of today's Oyster Perpetual models feature their recognizable Oyster case. Rolex stamps the entire middle case out of a solid block of metal and adheres it to a screw-down fluted case back. The crystal and bezel are then friction fitted to it and either a Twinlock or Triplock winding crown is added to complete the seal. 

For a more comprehensive list of Rolex tech innovations, check out our Tech page. 

Rolex 950 Platinum

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Mainly reserved for their Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona models, Rolex uses 950 Platinum for their wristwatches and component parts. The bezel and dial of the Rolesium Yachtmaster use this platinum as well as the bezel of the 18 karat white gold Yacht-Master II.

Photo of Rolex 950 Platinum
Rolex 950 Platinum (photo: Rolex/Cédric Widmer)
This platinum alloy contains 950 thousandths of platinum mixed with ruthenium. Platinum is amongst the densest and heaviest metals of the world. It has exceptional luminosity, but its properties also make it hard to polish. It requires a large degree of experience with these metals to get the platinum alloy to develop their shine.

Rolex also coats the graduations on the bezel of steel and white gold models with platinum using physical vapor deposition, or PVD. This combined with the Cerachrom used in their ceramic bezels assures a long lasting, scratch resistant bezel display.

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Rolex 4130 Movement

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Rolex Calibre 4130 is a mechanical chronograph movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch that replaced the Zenith El Primero movement in the 2000 Cosmograph Daytona model. The Superlative Chronometer is accurate to within 1/8 of a second. 

photo of Rolex calibre 4130 Movement
Rolex 4130 Movement (photo: Rolex)
Equipped with 44 rubies, Rolex over coil, four gold Microstella nuts for high precision regulating and a power reserve of 72 hours, this movement resists shock and magnetism to provide ultimate accuracy. A blue Parachrom hairspring gives it a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.

The Cosmograph Daytona model features a 30 minute counter at the 3 o'clock position, seconds counter at the 6 o'clock position, a 12 hour counter at the 9 o'clock position and stop seconds to allow for accuracy in time keeping. According to Crown & Caliber, the 4130 movement is one of the most innovative watch movements. It is manufactured completely in house by Rolex.

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Rolex Extension Systems

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Rolex currently offers three different extension systems on their wristwatches, each extending the bracelet by varying lengths, depending on the model. No tools are required to adjust the lengths using these extensions, making it easy for the wearer to adjust whenever necessary. 

photo of Rolex Glidelock Extension System
Rolex Glidelock Extension System (photo: Rolex)
The Easylink allows one to extend the bracelet by 5mm by unfolding a link tucked away under the clasp. Rolex's professional dive watches, the Submariner, Deepsea and Sea-Dweller 4000, are equipped with the Glidelock extension system.

The Glidelock extends the bracelet by 20 millimeters at 2 millimeter increments with a toothed panel under the clasp. On the Deepsea model, the rack can be lifted to adjust the length without taking off the watch. The Fliplock Extension, on the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller 4000, is a fold-out link that increases the bracelet by an additional 26mm.

Check out my Submariner Date vs Deepsea Model Comparison to see a photo of the fully extended bracelet of the Deepsea with the Fliplock extension. I also included a photo of the rack of the Deepsea lifted out of the clasp.

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Rolex Twinlock and Triplock Winding Crowns

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The screw down winding crown was an important component of Rolex's first waterproof Oyster case design in 1927. Due to the fact that the winding crown interacts directly with the movement inside the case to perform essential functions of the watch, it is imperative that it creates a tight seal with the case to keep dust and water out. 

photo of Rolex Triplock Winding Crown
Rolex Triplock Winding Crown (photo: Rolex)
Rolex wristwatches are equipped with either a Twinlock or Triplock winding crown, depending on the model's depth rating. The Twinlock came first, introduced in 1953. Identifiable by two dots below the crown, the Twinlock winding crown has two sealed zones, one inside the tube and one inside the crown, to keep water out up to a depth of 100 meters.

The Triplock winding crown was introduced in 1970 and contains a third sealed zone inside the crown that increases water resistance to depths of up to 3,900 meters on the Rolex Deepsea model. The Submariner and Sea-Dweller models are also equipped with Triplock winding crowns.

While the winding crown may not be a deciding factor when purchasing a Rolex, it serves an important purpose in the hermetic seal of the Oyster case that the watchmaker has been perfecting for almost a century.

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Rolex 3135 Movement

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Introduced in 1988 to replace the 3035 movement, Rolex calibre 3135 is used in more of their wristwatch models than any other movement. The self-winding mechanical movement powers the Submariner Date, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master and Datejust 36mm.

photo of rolex calibre 3135 movement
Rolex's 3135 Movement (photo: Rolex)
Developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex, the 3135 movement measures 28.5 mm in diameter with a height of 6 mm. It is equipped with 31 jewels, a Perpetual rotor and Rolex's patented blue Parachrom hairspring, making it ten times more precise than other mechanical watch movements. A Rolex overcoil ensures its regularity regardless of its position and it has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

This impressive movement has been around for so long because of its superior design and construction. Over the years, it has incorporated other Rolex innovations, like the blue Parachrom hairspring, to keep it up to date. It is a large movement, which allows Rolex to fit it with the most efficient and effective mechanical parts they manufacture.

The movement's frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (bph) can be appreciated in the YouTube video below. Hearing the sound of the movement while watching its parts interact is very soothing. Perhaps getting a glimpse of the heart of the watch is the reason the skeleton watch trend has taken such a strong hold over the past few years.

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Rolex 4161 Movement

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Caliber 4161 is a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement manufactured in house by Rolex for their Yacht-Master II model. Based on the 4130 movement used in the Cosmograph Daytona model, the 4161 movement interacts with the Ring Command Bezel to set the regatta timer built into the Yacht-Master II. 

photo of rolex's caliber 4161 movement
Rolex 4161 Movement (photo: Rolex)

35,000 hours went into manufacturing the 4161 movement. Rolex uses UV-LiGA microsystem technology to produce some of the tiny components that go into this movement. It is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring and Perpetual rotor, both proprietary components of the watchmaker. 

This movement makes the regatta timer functions of the Yacht-Master II possible. The programable mechanical countdown features synchronization on the fly. By hitting one of the pushers, one can reset the countdown to synchronize it with the official time of the regatta, allowing skippers to take off on time and avoid penalties or delays. 

With a 72 hour power reserve, the 4161 combines innovation with functionality to create a truly superlative chronometer from Rolex.

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Rolex Cyclops Lens

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Rolex developed and patented their Cyclops lens, the magnifying lens that is affixed to the crystal over the date aperture, in the 1950s. It was introduced on their first Datejust model in 1953 and is now used on all of their date models except for the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea. 

Photo of Rolex crystal with cyclops magnification lens
Rolex Cyclops Lens (photo: Rolex)
“To all watchmakers: we draw your attention to the fact that the watch crystal with the specially shaped magnifying lens is a Rolex exclusivity protected in Switzerland and abroad. We will not hesitate to instigate legal proceedings against any counterfeiting.” Rolex sent out this statement in 1955 warning watchmakers against replicating this innovation. As a result of this protection, their Cyclops lens has become one of the most recognizable features of Rolex date models.

The Cyclops lens was manufactured from plexiglass until the 1970s, when Rolex began manufacturing their sapphire crystals. The Cyclops was made from sapphire ever since, and more recently received another upgrade, this time in the form of an anti-reflective coating. It magnifies the date by two and a half times.

The Cyclops lens is difficult to replicate, making it a good way to spot a fake Rolex. It is also the easiest way to identify a Rolex date model from far, either in a photo or in person.

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Rolex Oysterclasp, Crownclasp and Oysterlock Clasps

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The clasp of a wristwatch is meant to provide both security and comfort to the wearer. Having an expensive or rare timepiece slip off one's wrist is a nightmare and can often lead to irreparable damage. Rolex currently offers three clasp options on their wristwatches: Oysterclasp, Crownclasp and Oysterlock. 

Photo of Rolex oysterlock clasp on oyster bracelet
Rolex Oysterlock Clasp (photo: Rolex)
The Oysterclasp is the simplest of the clasp options, consisting of a folding clasp and a small lever that secures the clasp. The Oysterlock, shown in the photo above, was introduced in 2005 on the GMT-Master II model. This clasp features 15 micro technical components patented by Rolex for a secure clasp. It snaps shut, allowing the wearer to easily fasten and unlock it. The watchmaker added a crown design detail to the clasp that provides a small lip that can be gripped to open or close it.

The Crownclasp is the most inconspicuous of the clasp options, with a folding blade concealed by the bracelet, revealing only a crown shaped lever used to open and close the clasp. This clasp appears on the Jubilee bracelet as well as the President bracelet shown below in platinum.

Photo of a Rolex Crownclasp on a platinum president bracelet
Rolex Crownclasp on a President Bracelet (photo: Rolex)
Aside from the movement inside, the clasp of a wristwatch sees the most action. The opening and closing of the clasp on a daily basis wears on it and that wear could lead to an accidental opening later in the life of the timepiece. It is of utmost importance that watchmakers pay attention to this important detail. Perhaps Rolex places their crown logo on their clasps to let us know they are indeed paying attention.

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