Rolex Adds User Guides to Their Official Website

2017 Rolex Sky-Dweller User Guide (photo: Rolex)
Rolex isn't a brand that is known for overly complicated watches. They have only a few models that require some know-how to set the different functions and for those models they have added a User Guides section to their official website. If you own a Yacht-Master II, Sky-Dweller or the new Cellini Moonphase, you may benefit from checking it out.

The animated guides bring the user manual to life, with step-by-step instructions to walk you through the different settings. The Sky-Dweller presents the most complications, with setting instructions for the Reference Time, Local Time and Month and Date. The guide also lets the Cellini Moonphase owner know the correct position of the moon and how to get their timepiece to display it properly. Setting instructions for the Yacht-Master II's Regatta Timer are also presented for before and after the Regatta begins.

The User Guides section appears after the watchmaker has made several adjustments to their website. The latest updates seem to favor Rolex watch owners and potential customers. They added pricing to many of their more modestly-priced configurations just before Baselworld 2017 and have also been adding content tailored toward women, like the recent Every Rolex Tells a Story entry by Sylvia Earle. Although they do not sell timepieces through e-commerce on the site, it is the watchmaker's direct link to their target market.

Visit rolex.com to check out the latest updates and links to their social media accounts. While you are not able to order a wristwatch directly from them, they do have a store locator function that will guide you to the nearest Authorized Dealer. There is also information on where to service your Rolex and how to maintain it when it's at home.

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Mondani Books Offer A Comprehensive Look at Your Favorite Rolex Models

Mondani Books About Rolex Watches (photo: Mondani Facebook)
While the Internet has certainly made it easier to access information in an instant, there is still a role for traditional publications to play in the distribution of information about Rolex watches. The company itself offer very limited information to the public through their official channels, leaving many scratching their heads when searching for reliable information about their favorite models.

In my research for this blog over the past year, I have found it difficult to find reliable sources of information on Rolex watches, particularly on vintage models that are no longer in production. You can Google any reference and find conflicting information on watch specs, including info from trusted sources. On several occasions, my searches have led me to books published by Mondani, a family-run publisher located in Genova, Italy.

Guido Mondani began collecting watches after his wife, Franca, gifted him a Rolex Reference 8171 in 1986. His quest for knowledge about the watch was the impetus for starting the publishing company that focused on luxury watches. By 2006, he had amassed a watch collection that earned him over $11 Million at auction. Now, his daughter Giorgia runs the marketing and foreign sales for the company. She has also co-authored some of the books they offer on their official website.

“I am one of the very few women in this business. Often at watch events, I am the only woman,” Giorgia told the New York Times in 2015. “Being a woman in this men’s world is not that easy or common," she added. While it may have been difficult for her to break through in the male-dominated world of horology, she has helped Mondani maintain their status as a leader in publishing books about luxury watches.

Their books cover more than just Rolex watches, though their Rolex Encyclopedia is their pièce de résistance. In it, you can find updated information on even the most esoteric topics and references. If you are interested in information on the 'Dato-Compax' or 'Lumi dial' you might benefit from taking a look inside the pages of the three book anthology. For more information on Mondani, including pricing on their coffee table books, visit mondanibooks.com

Excellent Advice for Preserving the Value of Your Rolex

When it comes to assessing the value of a vintage timepiece, some of the contributing factors to current market price can seem counterintuitive at first. Is a banged up vintage Rolex more valuable than one of the same reference that has been polished? Is a cracked original bezel better than one that has been replaced? Christie's provides wonderful insights into how to preserve the value of your timepiece in a Q & A with their watch specialist on their official website

Stainless Steel Rolex Submariner Date
The first piece of advice they offer is not to polish the case of your watch. Though most watches that are actually worn will develop scratches and dings over time, the polishing usually dulls the angles of the case. In terms of value retention, the most important factor for any watch is the preservation of its original parts. So, even though it may be the original case, the polish will lower its value over time as compared to one that hasn't been polished. Even though it may look unsightly and even develop stains or oxidation, an unpolished case is always favored.

When it comes to the bezel and the dial, the same logic is applied. The bezel of a vintage watch may fade over time, creating a 'ghost' effect, which is actually sought after by collectors. The same goes for watches with faded dials, known as 'tropical' dials, like the one on the Paul Newman that sold in Hong Kong last year. If any dial or bezel is replaced, the Christie's watch expert recommends replacing it with one from the same period.

When it comes to the movement, it is recommended to have the watch in working condition. However, replacing original parts to get the watch to work may not be favorable in some cases, depending on the function you are trying to fix. If it tells time, it may not be worth replacing parts to get secondary functions to work, as some collectors will analyze every element of the movement before purchasing.

What this article shows is that care and maintenance of the original timepiece is paramount to any aesthetic or function upgrades or repairs. While you may own a watch that is not yet considered vintage, it is good to know what best practices to follow to maintain the value of your watch. While scratches and dings may bother you when you look at your watch now, it may be worth ignoring them if you plan on keeping the watch for fifty years. It may be worth a lot more in the long run than having a perfectly polished timepiece now.

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Is My Rolex Watch Clasp an Oysterclasp or Oysterlock?

When making a Rolex purchase, it is always important to familiarize yourself with the specific details of the reference you are interested in. With so many working parts, some details can be overlooked, even after you take the watch home. The difference between the Oysterclasp and Oysterlock is subtle, but it is important that you know which one you have in case it ever needs to be replaced or you purchase a strap that incorporates the clasp.

Rolex Oysterlock Clasp on Oyster Bracelet (photo: Rolex)
The photo above shows a brushed Oyster bracelet with polished center links fitted with an Oysterlock clasp. You can see the snap-fit lever with the Rolex crown logo opened to expose the folding blades. When snapped shut, the crown is used to open the clasp. When the clasp is locked, you can see a small piece of the clasp cover exposed between the crown and the links.
Rolex Oysterclasp Clasp on Oyster Bracelet (photo: Rolex)
The Oysterclasp, shown above on a brushed Oyster bracelet, is a more simplified clasp. The crown logo is imprinted on the clasp cover, not on the lever. On this clasp there is no space between the lever and the bracelet like on the Oysterlock. This is the easiest way to tell the difference between this and the Oysterlock - that and the position of the crown logo.

Rolex also offers a Crownclasp option which conceals the clasp below the bracelet, with only the crown logo visible between links. You can check out all of the bracelet options and the clasps that go along with them in my previous post on Rolex bracelet options. If you're curious about the difference between the Glidelock and Fliplock extension systems, check out my post on that.

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Should I Wear My Rolex Submariner to a Black Tie Event?

If you have ever wondered if it's appropriate to wear your Rolex Submariner to a black tie event, the watchmaker has an answer for you in the "Featured Selections" section of their official website. The short answer is yes - as long as it has a black dial, that is. They have paired some of their most popular professional wristwatch models with brand ambassadors like Roger Federer and Lindsey Vonn in their formalwear to illustrate the point in the "Black Dial Meets Black Tie" photos shown below. 
Rolex "Black Dial Meets Black Tie" Featured Selections (photo: Rolex)
In my post about which Rolex model goes best with a suit, I share my feelings about wearing a professional wristwatch with formal attire. I feel that a dress watch like the Cellini makes more sense in a black tie setting. Based on the models they chose for the black tie photo shoot, it seems that Rolex is making the statement that their professional watches are appropriate for black tie affairs. Your stylist or tailor may disagree with them, but I think it makes sense for the watchmaker to elevate their aesthetic in this way. With big watches dominating the market, it is now common to find people wearing large tool watches in formal settings.

Scotsman Sir Jackie Stewart shows that it is okay to add a little flair to your formal attire, showing off his tartan plaid pants in his black tie photo. If you are still wondering if you should wear your Submariner to a black tie event, you should ask yourself what's stopping you. You can find a variety of opinions on the subject online and in print, but nobody can tell you what works best for you. If I can offer any advice, it would be to put on your tux and Rolex Submariner and stand in front of the mirror. If you think you look good, go with it. If the watch catches the cuff or creates a bulge that throws off the look, opt for a dress watch with a slim case instead.

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Should I Wear My Rolex Watch to a Job Interview?

Going on a job interview requires an attention to detail that can determine the future of your career. Dressing appropriately is just one of the many boxes that need to be checked before walking into the building. Other considerations include brushing up on current events, researching the company and preparing to answer questions about the position and your qualifications. Many Rolex owners wonder if wearing their luxury timepiece to a job interview is a good idea. While there is not one concrete answer to the question, there are variables to take into consideration when making the decision. 

Should I Wear My Rolex Watch to a Job Interview? (photo: Olu Eletu)
First Impressions

The first impression you make on the interviewer will give them an idea of what kind of candidate you are, so it is important to put your best foot forward when walking into the room. Blogs will tell you to dress for the job that you want, no the job you have. So, even if you are interviewing for an entry level position, you may want to dress appropriately for a management position to show your level of interest in moving up in the company. It is important to get an idea of the company culture and research the dress code as much as you would other important details about the workplace.

Tone Down the Wrist Game

In general, wearing a wristwatch gives a classic touch to your professional attire and indicates that you are someone who likes to be prompt. However, the watch you choose to wear should not draw too much attention. If you are trying to get a job at a company where the top level executives are wearing affordable watches and you walk in with a gold Rolex on your wrist, they may find it ostentatious or think that you don't need the job as much as another candidate. While these judgments may be wrong, there is no way for you to avoid them unless you tone down the wrist game.

Rule of Thumb

A good rule of thumb when choosing a watch for a job interview is to make sure that the model you choose is appropriate for the salary of the position you are seeking. So, for example, if you are going for an executive position at a financial firm, you may want to wear a precious metal model to show that you have been successful in the past. However, if you wear a wristwatch that costs more than a few month's salary in the position you are interviewing for, you may want to swap it for something more affordable. This way you show the interviewer that you are prompt and responsible, but still have something to work toward financially.

Exercise Good Judgment 

There is no right or wrong when it comes to wearing a Rolex to a job interview but exercising good judgment in your wardrobe choice is a great way to make a first impression on a potential employer. If you are a watch collector with many models to choose from, the decision may seem easy. If you own your grail watch but think it may send mixed signals to the interviewer, you may want to invest in a Seiko or Timex watch as an affordable alternative. This way you can save your best watches for occasions when you can show them off proudly without being concerned about how it may affect your career prospects.

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Should I Wear My Rolex While I Exercise?

Rolex watches are built to last a lifetime or even longer with proper maintenance and care. All Oyster cases are waterproof up to 100 meters and made from high grade metals, including their 904L stainless steel. The bezels on their newer professional models feature Cerchrom bezel inserts that are scratch-resistant. However, just because they are designed to be virtually indestructible doesn't mean that they will not develop scratches and dings over time. 

Should I Wear My Rolex While I Exercise? (photo: Stephen Di Donato)
One of the more common questions that I come across about Rolex watch maintenance is whether or not to take it off before exercising. There are a few different variables to consider when deciding to exercise with your Rolex on. The first and most important variable to consider before taking off your watch to work out is where you will put it. Theft is a serious issue when it comes to luxury timepieces and a gym locker is not a safe place to keep your Rolex while you work out, nor is the glove compartment of your vehicle. So, if you work out after work and wear your watch to your worksite, I would keep it on at the gym to avoid having to call the watchmaker to report it stolen.

If you do have a secure place to store your Rolex while you workout, the next thing to consider is the intensity of your workout. Some people feel fine jogging or running with their watch on and rinsing the sweat off before taking a shower. However, if you incorporate high intensity elements to your training sessions that include weights, push-ups or pull-ups, I would recommend replacing your metal band with a rubber band.  My best recommendation is to look at the luxury rubber bands from Rubber B.  Not only did they come up with a unique T-Shaped design that looks like it is fused together with the Rolex timepiece, but it is far more comfortable when working out.  If you have a gold band, leave that at home.  The Rubber B bands are more durable, stretchable and is far easier to clean than a standard steel band. 

If you are willing to risk shattering the crystal and dinging the case and bracelet of your watch with a weight, you should also consider the cost of servicing your watch prematurely due to scratches.  The more you ding it, the sooner it will need to be polished. So, even if you don't shatter the crystal, you will still be incurring an additional maintenance cost for exposing your Rolex to additional wear. With that being said, it is ultimately up to the owner of the watch to decide how to care for it. If you must work out with your watch on, I would recommend buying a rubber strap for comfort and to avoid scratching the original bracelet, which is costly to replace through the manufacturer.

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When Should I Service My Rolex?

There are as many opinions about how often to service your Rolex watches as there are opinions about the watches themselves. While experiences vary and every watch is different, Rolex recommends that their timepieces receive service at least every five years. The servicing itself takes about a month and includes several tests to make sure that the timepiece is functioning optimally. 

When To Service Your Rolex (photo: Rolex)
When To Service Your Rolex (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Mayer)
When you drop off your watch for a service, it is initially inspected to assess any damage that would require additional repairs beyond the standard servicing. Damage to the crystal, dial or major components of the movement like the balance wheel or crystals would require repairs beyond the scope of a standard service. The servicing does cover the replacement of smaller parts of the movement like wheels, cogs and springs, though.

The actual servicing entails disassembling the entire movement, washing and lubricating the parts, replacing the waterproof seals and putting the movement back together again. The case and bracelet are polished and once the watch is put back together it undergoes several tests before going back to the client. The power reserve is tested followed by waterproof pressure testing to make sure that the case has no leaks that would break the seal of the case. The precision of the watch is also tested on a machine that simulates the movement of the watch on the wrist for a few days, allowing the watchmaker to make sure that the watch isn't losing time.

The reason it is important to get servicing done every few years is that the replacement of the lubricants and cleaning of the parts increases the longevity of the timepiece and keeps the parts from drying up and corroding over time. For more information on servicing your Rolex visit rolex.com to find a service center near you.

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How to Use the Chronograph and Tachymeter Functions on Rolex's Daytona 116500LN

The Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN is Rolex's new 'it' watch, with waiting lists to purchase one from Authorized Dealers going as far as 2017. While the hype is largely based on the aesthetic of this configuration, most notably its black Cerachrom bezel (lunette noir) with a tachymeter printed on it, it still offers a chronograph and tachymeter functionalities that can be used to keep time and measure average speed. 

Close Up photo of Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN (photo: Rolex)
The instructions below are applicable to any Rolex Daytona manufactured after the year 2000, like the 116500LN shown in the photo above, with a Rolex movement and screw down pushers. The Daytonas released prior to this date are equipped with an El Primero Zenith movement that has a different configuration of the sub-dials.

Using the Chronograph Function
First, unscrew the pushers located at the 2 and 4 o'clock positions. If the long, thin seconds hand is not at 12, hit the pusher at 4 o'clock to reset. The chronograph function is initiated by hitting the pusher at 2 o'clock once. This will get that seconds hand moving around the dial. Once one minute has elapsed, the sub-dial at 3 o'clock will mark it. Once an hour has passed, the sub-dial at 9 o'clock will mark it. (The sub-dial at 6 o'clock is used to keep the seconds on the clock, not the chronograph.)

Using the Tachymeter
The numbers printed on the bezel of the Daytona are to measure the average miles per hour a race car driver goes per mile on a race track. As you can see, there is a 60 at 12 o'clock, meaning that if you travel a mile in one minute, you are traveling at 60 miles per hour (there are 60 minutes in an hour, after all). To measure your average speed per mile, hit the pusher at 2 o'clock to start and hit it again to stop it right when you reach one mile traveled. Wherever the chronograph seconds hand lands on the bezel would indicate the amount of miles you would travel in an hour at that speed.

While chronograph and tachymeter functions seem superfluous in an era where you can keep time and measure speed on your smartphone (and now smartwatch), the sub-dials and numbers printed on the bezel fill the space nicely and harken back to the 1960s when these watches became popular. Like many classic watches, chronometers offer more in the way of aesthetic and legacy these days than they do in terms of functionality. However, they possess a charm that is hard for horology buffs to resist.

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How to Set the Time on the Rolex GMT-Master II

A simple but useful function of Rolex's GMT-Master II is the 24-hour hand and bidirectional rotating bezel. While there are other models, like the Explorer II and Sky-Dweller, that allow you to tell the time in two locations simultaneously, the GMT's bezel makes the process as easy as possible - especially when traveling through multiple time zones.

Close up of Rolex GMT-Master II
Setting the 24-hour Hand to GMT Time
The benefit of the GMT being equipped with a bidirectional 24-hour bezel is that it allows you to set the 24-hour hand to GMT time once and then rotate the bezel to move between different timezones without pulling out the crown again. To set the GMT time, unwind the crown and pull it out two clicks. This will allow you to set the 24-hour hand and the minute hand to GMT time (same time zone as London).

Setting the Hour Hand 
Once GMT time is set, you can click the crown down to the first position and set the hour hand to local time or whatever time you want it set to. Once that is set, don't forget to screw the crown back in to seal the watch case.

Once the GMT time is set using the crown, you can move the bezel to reflect the time in any time zone around the globe. So, if you would like to set the 24-hour hand to your home time in New York City, you would move the bezel clockwise 5 clicks for Easter Standard Time (GMT-5). Or, if you are traveling with a layover, you can simply move the bezel to reflect the time in the layover city then move it again when you get to your destination.

You can always set the 24-hour hand without using the bezel, as would be done with the fixed bezel of the Explorer II, but setting the 24-hour hand to GMT time maximizes the potential of the GMT-Master II timekeeping functionality.

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How to Set the Rolex Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is equipped with a unique chronograph function that is designed specifically as a regatta timer for yacht racing. It features a ten minute countdown with a fly-back function that brings the second hand back to the nearest minute with a press of the pusher at 4 o'clock. This allows the user to synchronize with the official race time to the second. See below for a step by step guide to setting the regatta timer function. 

How to Set the Rolex Yacht-Master II Regatta Timer (photo: Rolex)
How to Set the Rolex Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (photo: Rolex)
Setting the Timer
To set the YM2's 10 minute countdown function, you must first unscrew the crown, rotate the bezel 90 degrees counterclockwise, depress the pusher at the 4 o'clock position and then wind the crown clockwise to move the hand with the red triangle to the minute you want to count down from. Once this hand is pointing at the desired start time, rotate the bezel clockwise back to the starting position with the 5 at the 12 o'clock position. Once the timer is set and the bezel is back in place, don't forget to screw the crown back into place to seal the case - especially if you are on a boat where the timepiece may be exposed to water.

Starting/Stopping the Timer 
Once the timer is set and the bezel and crown are back in place, you can start the timer by pressing the pusher at the 2 o'clock position. This pusher also stops the timer. Once the timer is going, you can hit the pusher at 4 o'clock to fly back to the nearest minute. This will allow you to synchronize your timer to the official time of the race. To reset the timer and start over, simply press the pusher at 2 o'clock followed by the pusher at 4 o'clock. This will reset the timer to the starting minute you chose when setting the timer.

While most people wouldn't use the regatta chronograph for its intended purpose, it still comes in handy when a countdown is needed. This timer is very legible with the large arabic numbers displayed on the bezel. It can be used to set a timer while grilling at home or during presentations at work when accessing a smartphone may not be appropriate.

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How to Set the Time and Date on the Rolex Sky-Dweller

Equipped with Rolex's patented Ring Command Bezel, the Sky-Dweller model takes GMT functionality to another level. Setting each of the functions on this timepiece requires a turn of the bezel before the winding of the crown to the correct date and time. This process is explained below.

Rolex Sky-Dweller Reference # 326939 (photo: Rolex)

Setting the GMT or Reference Time
To set the GMT time on the 24-hour disc of the Sky-Dweller, you must first unscrew the winding crown and pull it out. Also, make sure that the bezel is in the home position, turned all the way to the right. Then move the bezel three clicks to the left or counterclockwise from the home position. This will allow you to set the 24-hour reference time with the winding crown.

Setting the Local Time
Once the 24-hour disc is set to your home time, you are ready to set the local time using the hour hand and the 12-hour display on the main dial. Turn the bezel one click to the right or clockwise to access the hour hand. Then wind the crown to move it to the local hour.

Setting the Date
Once the GMT time and local time are set, move the bezel one more click to the right or clockwise to set the date. There is a Saros annual calendar built into this model with a month indicator above each of the 12 hour markers. You can wind through the calendar to get the the indicator on the right month, then choose the correct day of the month.

Once the date and time are set, move the bezel one more click to the right or clockwise, returning it to the home position. Be sure to wind the crown back down to seal the case as well. If you need to make any adjustments to the time or date, simply repeat the process and move the bezel accordingly to access the desired function.

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What is a NATO Strap?

Arguably one of the most popular wristwatch accessories, the NATO strap is commonly seen on Rolex watches in place of the metal bracelets provided by the watchmaker. These long nylon replacement straps find their origins in the British Ministry of Defense and have become very popular with watch enthusiasts.
Admiralty Gray NATO Strap Available at monkeyswag.com (photo: Monkey Swag)
The name 'NATO' comes from the 13 digit North American Trade Organization (NATO) Stock Number that was used by NATO countries to identify this item when it was issued by the British Ministry of Defense in 1973. They also go by 'G10' straps, which refers to the form used to order the original straps.

The first NATO or G10 strap was issued in Admiralty Gray, like the one shown in the photo above from Monkey Swag, a producer of watch straps based in the UK. It was 280 mm in length and 20 mm wide with 12 holes and a chrome plated brass buckle. Now, they are available in many colors and styles. These straps have been seen on James Bond and celebrities like David Beckham in the past and are popular with members of Rolex Forums as well.

In terms of aesthetic, there are differing opinions on how these straps go with luxury timepieces. While some appreciate the vintage military look, others find them too casual. Nonetheless, they are the most common and widely available replacement watch straps on the market. These straps are priced at less than $30 US from most manufacturers.

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How to Report a Stolen Rolex

News stories and forum posts about stolen Rolexes pop up all the time, unfortunately. As a result, one of the responsibilities that comes with owning one of these luxury timepieces is keeping it safe. The decision to leave a Rolex in a gym locker, car glove compartment or hotel room is risky and can result in a stolen watch in some cases. Most people are aware of these risks, but not everyone knows what to do when their Rolex is stolen. 

How to Report a Stolen Rolex (photo: Matt Popovich) 
The first and most logical step (that not everyone completes) is to file a police report wherever and whenever you realize you lost it. The theft of any item worth thousands of dollars comes with criminal consequences and a Rolex is no exception. The reporting of the incident not only protects the interests of the victim, it also provides the authorities with information that may help them apprehend the perpetrator.

The other reason that it is important to file a police report is to prove to Rolex that your watch was in fact stolen and not sold or bartered if it turns up at a service center later on. This brings me to the second very important step to follow if your Rolex is stolen: give Rolex the serial number of your watch and report it stolen to them, too. In the US, you can call Rolex Watch USA Inc in New York City at 212-758-7700 and ask to be transferred to the Lost and Stolen Watch Department.

Reporting your stolen watch's serial number to Rolex will flag it in their system. If it is ever taken to a service center for maintenance or repair after that, there is a chance that you can get your watch back if you're lucky. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that it will ever turn up. While many find that insuring a luxury timepiece is expensive, it may be a good idea to do so to avoid going without one in the long run.

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