Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations

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Photo of Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations
Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations (photo: Rolex)
Over the past few decades, Rolex has introduced more tech innovations into the market than they have new wristwatch models. The company follows a vertically integrated business model that focuses on developing their own watch parts in-house. This allows them to control the quality of their products and continue their legacy of innovation. 

 The 5 tech innovations listed below were developed and patented by Rolex over the last century and continue to differentiate the watchmaker from its competitors. Click on the innovation name for more detailed information. 

Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring 

Photo of Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring (photo: Rolex)
Rolex patented their blue Parachrom hairspring in 2005. The hairspring is part of the oscillator, the part of the movement that regulates the energy coming from the mainspring by way of the escapement. The accuracy of the oscillator determines the precision of the watch.

The blue Parachrom hairspring was developed by fusing niobium and zirconium with a precise amount of oxygen. The chemical composition of the hairspring makes it more resistant to magnetism and shocks, making the timepiece up to ten times more accurate. It gets its blue color from the patented surface treatment used on the hairspring. 

It took several years for the physicists and materials engineers at Rolex to come up with the chemical composition of the alloy and surface treatment that give the hairspring its distinctive blue color. The blue color itself is a technical achievement reserved only for the most prestigious watchmakers. 


Photo of Rolex Chronergy Escapement
Rolex Chronergy Escapement (photo: Rolex)
The escapement of a mechanical watch movement transfers the energy from the mainspring to the oscillator. It is responsible for the ticking noise that is associated with mechanical watch movements. The escapement is composed of four parts: the escapement wheel, pallet fork, pallet bridge and the roller. The friction caused by these metal components is offset by rubies and patented lubricants, allowing the escapement to tick for many years without requiring replacement. 

The Chronergy component of escapement is a newly developed version of the Swiss lever escapement that uses geometry to improve its efficiency by 15%. The escapement is also cut out to reduce its weight and minimize the effects of inertia. The escapement wheel is made of nickel-phosphorous to protect it form magnetic interference. 


Photo of Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber
Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber (photo: Rolex)
Rolex patented the Paraflex Shock Absorber in 2005 to replace the KIF shock absorption system they used previously. This newly developed shock absorption system is said to absorb up to 50% more chock than other systems available on the market. 

The shock absorption system is an important component of the mechanical watch movement. It protects the oscillator and other fragile pieces from shocks that could lower their accuracy. For Rolex, it seems logical for them to have developed this innovation in tandem with their blue Parachrom hairspring, ensuring that their newly developed parts are protected in the long run.


Photo of Rolex Perpetual Rotor
Rolex Perpetual Rotor (photo: Rolex)
Patented by Rolex in 1931, the perpetual rotor is one of the most important tech innovations in the history of the watchmaker. The first perpetual rotor with an oscillating weight, this innovation utilized the movement of the wrist and the laws of physics to provide power to the movement without requiring the wearer to wind the crown. 

The half-moon shaped oscillating weight completes 360º rotations and, in doing so, powers the mainspring. It is equipped with a clutch system that prevents the rotor from overwinding the mainspring, creating a harmonious and efficient power source for the movement. 

The patent for the perpetual rotor expired in 1948, allowing the entire watchmaking industry to adopt this technology. This made automatic or self-winding wristwatch movements the new industry standard. 


Photo of Rolex Oyster Case
Rolex Oyster Case (photo: Rolex)
Introduced in 1926, the Oyster case is perhaps the most recognizable innovation of the watchmaker to date. The original Oyster case used a patented system of screwing the bezel, case back and winding crown to the middle of the case, creating a hermetic seal that protected the Oyster watch up to 100 meters underwater. 

All of today's Oyster Perpetual models feature their recognizable Oyster case. Rolex stamps the entire middle case out of a solid block of metal and adheres it to a screw-down fluted case back. The crystal and bezel are then friction fitted to it and either a Twinlock or Triplock winding crown is added to complete the seal. 

For a more comprehensive list of Rolex tech innovations, check out our Tech page. 

Rolex Extension Systems

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Rolex currently offers three different extension systems on their wristwatches, each extending the bracelet by varying lengths, depending on the model. No tools are required to adjust the lengths using these extensions, making it easy for the wearer to adjust whenever necessary. 

photo of Rolex Glidelock Extension System
Rolex Glidelock Extension System (photo: Rolex)
The Easylink allows one to extend the bracelet by 5mm by unfolding a link tucked away under the clasp. Rolex's professional dive watches, the Submariner, Deepsea and Sea-Dweller 4000, are equipped with the Glidelock extension system.

The Glidelock extends the bracelet by 20 millimeters at 2 millimeter increments with a toothed panel under the clasp. On the Deepsea model, the rack can be lifted to adjust the length without taking off the watch. The Fliplock Extension, on the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller 4000, is a fold-out link that increases the bracelet by an additional 26mm.

Check out my Submariner Date vs Deepsea Model Comparison to see a photo of the fully extended bracelet of the Deepsea with the Fliplock extension. I also included a photo of the rack of the Deepsea lifted out of the clasp.

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Rolex Twinlock and Triplock Winding Crowns

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The screw down winding crown was an important component of Rolex's first waterproof Oyster case design in 1927. Due to the fact that the winding crown interacts directly with the movement inside the case to perform essential functions of the watch, it is imperative that it creates a tight seal with the case to keep dust and water out. 

photo of Rolex Triplock Winding Crown
Rolex Triplock Winding Crown (photo: Rolex)
Rolex wristwatches are equipped with either a Twinlock or Triplock winding crown, depending on the model's depth rating. The Twinlock came first, introduced in 1953. Identifiable by two dots below the crown, the Twinlock winding crown has two sealed zones, one inside the tube and one inside the crown, to keep water out up to a depth of 100 meters.

The Triplock winding crown was introduced in 1970 and contains a third sealed zone inside the crown that increases water resistance to depths of up to 3,900 meters on the Rolex Deepsea model. The Submariner and Sea-Dweller models are also equipped with Triplock winding crowns.

While the winding crown may not be a deciding factor when purchasing a Rolex, it serves an important purpose in the hermetic seal of the Oyster case that the watchmaker has been perfecting for almost a century.

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Rolex Cyclops Lens

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Rolex developed and patented their Cyclops lens, the magnifying lens that is affixed to the crystal over the date aperture, in the 1950s. It was introduced on their first Datejust model in 1953 and is now used on all of their date models except for the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea. 

Photo of Rolex crystal with cyclops magnification lens
Rolex Cyclops Lens (photo: Rolex)
“To all watchmakers: we draw your attention to the fact that the watch crystal with the specially shaped magnifying lens is a Rolex exclusivity protected in Switzerland and abroad. We will not hesitate to instigate legal proceedings against any counterfeiting.” Rolex sent out this statement in 1955 warning watchmakers against replicating this innovation. As a result of this protection, their Cyclops lens has become one of the most recognizable features of Rolex date models.

The Cyclops lens was manufactured from plexiglass until the 1970s, when Rolex began manufacturing their sapphire crystals. The Cyclops was made from sapphire ever since, and more recently received another upgrade, this time in the form of an anti-reflective coating. It magnifies the date by two and a half times.

The Cyclops lens is difficult to replicate, making it a good way to spot a fake Rolex. It is also the easiest way to identify a Rolex date model from far, either in a photo or in person.

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Rolex Oysterclasp, Crownclasp and Oysterlock Clasps

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The clasp of a wristwatch is meant to provide both security and comfort to the wearer. Having an expensive or rare timepiece slip off one's wrist is a nightmare and can often lead to irreparable damage. Rolex currently offers three clasp options on their wristwatches: Oysterclasp, Crownclasp and Oysterlock. 

Photo of Rolex oysterlock clasp on oyster bracelet
Rolex Oysterlock Clasp (photo: Rolex)
The Oysterclasp is the simplest of the clasp options, consisting of a folding clasp and a small lever that secures the clasp. The Oysterlock, shown in the photo above, was introduced in 2005 on the GMT-Master II model. This clasp features 15 micro technical components patented by Rolex for a secure clasp. It snaps shut, allowing the wearer to easily fasten and unlock it. The watchmaker added a crown design detail to the clasp that provides a small lip that can be gripped to open or close it.

The Crownclasp is the most inconspicuous of the clasp options, with a folding blade concealed by the bracelet, revealing only a crown shaped lever used to open and close the clasp. This clasp appears on the Jubilee bracelet as well as the President bracelet shown below in platinum.

Photo of a Rolex Crownclasp on a platinum president bracelet
Rolex Crownclasp on a President Bracelet (photo: Rolex)
Aside from the movement inside, the clasp of a wristwatch sees the most action. The opening and closing of the clasp on a daily basis wears on it and that wear could lead to an accidental opening later in the life of the timepiece. It is of utmost importance that watchmakers pay attention to this important detail. Perhaps Rolex places their crown logo on their clasps to let us know they are indeed paying attention.

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Rolex Oyster Case

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Rolex includes the words 'Oyster Perpetual' in most of their model names. The word 'Perpetual' refers to the perpetual rotor that powers the movement and, in this instance, the word 'Oyster' refers to the Oyster case that was invented by Rolex in 1926. 

Rolex Oyster Case (photo: Rolex)
The Oyster was the first waterproof wristwatch case that utilized Rolex's patented system of screwing the bezel, case back and winding crown into the middle case. It was tested by famed swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who swam across the English Channel with a Rolex Oyster provided to her by Hans Wilsdorf in 1927.

All of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual models currently on the market are water resistant up to at least 100 meters due to the hermetic construction of the Oyster case. Today's Oyster case is made of a middle case that is stamped out of a solid block of metal (904l steel, 18 karat gold or platinum), a screw-down fluted case back and friction fitted crystal and bezel. Either a Twinlock or Triplock winding crown is also screwed into the Oyster case for watertight security.

All Oyster cases are made by Rolex in-house and undergo rigorous testing, including immersion underwater with high pressure to assure quality control. Although it may feel redundant to add the word 'Oyster' to every model name, the shape of the Oyster case is one of the easiest ways to identify a Rolex.

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Rolex Perpetual Rotor

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Anyone who has done research on Rolex models online has probably wondered why the words 'Oyster Perpetual' appear at the beginning of most model names. The company holds many patents on their technologies and while the patent on their Perpetual rotor expired in 1948, it still represents a technological advancement that made history in the watchmaking industry. 

Photo of Rolex Perpetual Rotor
Rolex Perpetual Rotor
The first perpetual rotor with an oscillating weight was created for pocket watches in the late 18th century. It employed slightly different technology than the perpetual rotor patented by Rolex in 1931, just a few years after they patented their hermetically sealed Oyster case.

Rolex's Perpetual rotor, which became the industry standard after their patent expired, works by capturing the energy caused by the 360º movement of the half-moon shaped oscillating weight and transmitting it to the mainspring. There is a clutch system that prevents the rotor from overwinding and conserves the energy in the watch for up to two or three days, depending on the power reserve of the watch.

The Perpetual rotor uses kinetic energy created by wrist motion and gravity to power the movement, a departure from previous technology that required the wearer to wind the crown manually to power the wristwatch.

In the age of the smartphone - and smartwatch - it is easy to understand why a self-winding wristwatch is more desirable than a watch you have to wind yourself. Rolex's Perpetual rotor is an innovation that has provided convenience and ease to the wristwatch wearers for almost 100 years.

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Five Rolex Bracelet Types

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Perhaps one of the easiest ways to identify a Rolex wristwatch is by the bracelet. Rolex offers five different bracelet types on their current models, each with a unique look and functionality. 

the 5 rolex bracelet types available on current models
The Five Rolex Bracelet Types Available 
Oysterflex Bracelet 

 The Oysterflex is the newest bracelet manufactured by Rolex for their 2015 Yacht-Master model. This black elastomer bracelet has a blade made of a titanium-nickel alloy at its core that attaches the case to the clasp. The inside of the bracelet is lined with a longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and it is fitted with an Everose gold Oysterlock clasp.

Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet
Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

Oyster Bracelet 

 The most universal and identifiable of the Rolex bracelets is the Oyster bracelet. Composed of flat and broad three piece links, this bracelet can be fitted with all of the Rolex clasps currently available. The Oyster was introduced in the late 1930s and is currently fitted on the most popular Rolex models, including the Submariner, Daytona and Sky-Dweller.

Rolex Oysterflex bracelet
Rolex Oyster Bracelet

Jubilee Bracelet

The five piece metal link Jubilee bracelet was introduced in 1945 on the Oyster Perpetual Datejust model. It can be fitted with either an Oysterclasp or a Crownclasp. The photo below shows a two-tone Jubilee with the Crownclasp.

Rolex Jubilee Bracelet
President Bracelet 

 Perhaps one of the most prestigious Rolex bracelets, the iconic President bracelet features a three-piece semicircular link that was introduced in 1956 on the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date. It is always fitted with a Crownclasp, as shown in the photograph below and is reserved for the Day-Date model and some Lady's Datejust models.

Rolex President Bracelet 
Pearlmaster Bracelet 

 The Pearlmaster made its debut in 1992 on the model of the same name. It features five rounded links on a sophisticated and smooth bracelet that always comes fitted with a Crownclasp. The rectangular links on this model made it perfect for adding diamonds down the bracelet as we see in the current Pearlmaster model.

Rolex Pearlmaster Bracelet 

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Rolex's Patented Chronergy Escapement

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Over the past 15 years, Rolex has developed and patented the Chronergy escapement in their manufacturing plant, Manufacture des Montres Rolex in Bienne, Switzerland. This escapement is currently used in the 3255 and 3235 movements. 

rolex patented chronergy mechanical watch escapement
Rolex's Patented Chronergy Escapement (Photo: Rolex)
The escapement, shown in the photo above, receives energy from the mainspring and transmits it to the oscillator, which is the part of the movement that helps regulate the flow of energy and keep the time. This part of the movement is also responsible for the ticking noise that mechanical watches make. Without it, the mainspring and oscillator will stop working after a few moments.

There are four parts of the escapement: the escapement wheel, pallet fork, pallet bridge and the roller. These tiny parts are required to be extremely precise, making it one of the most difficult parts of the watch to manufacture. Synthetic rubies and patented lubricants are used to minimize friction in the metal parts of the escapement so that it can last long without deteriorating.

Rolex developed a new component of the escapement called Chronergy. Their new version of the Swiss lever escapement uses geometry and innovation to improve efficiency by 15%. The pallet fork and escapement wheel are made of nickel-phosphorus to protect them from magnetic interference. The escapement is also cut out to reduce its weight and reduce the effects of inertia, also adding to its efficiency.

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Rolex Developed and Patented Their Cerachrom Bezel in 2005

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One of the exciting parts about the release of the 2016 Daytona at Baselworld 2016 was the addition of the black Cerachrom bezel to the iconic Rolex model. The 2015 model featured a 904l stainless steel bezel with a tachymetric scale engraved into it. 

Cerachrom vs. ceramic bezel rolex
Rolex's Patented Cerachrom Bezel
Rolex developed and patented their Cerachrom ceramic bezel in 2005. It was first available on their GMT-Master II model and later on the Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Yacht-Master models.

The process for creating the Cerachrom bezel takes over 40 hours. It begins with mixing zirconium oxide or aluminum oxide powder with pigment and a binding agent. This mixture is then heated up to 1500º after which numerals are carved into it. Then the bezel is sputtered with gold or platinum atoms and diamond polished until only the numerals are coated with gold or platinum for visibility.

This process made it particularly difficult for the watchmaker to achieve the classic red and blue pigment for the GMT-Master II Pepsi model released in 2014, which could be the reason they only made it available in white gold.

Rolex's Cerachrom bezel is highly durable and resistant to scratching and oxidation. It also retains its color after extended exposure to UV rays and salt water, making it ideal for the professional models.

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Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber

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In what seems like another effort to fully vertically integrate their wristwatch production, Rolex developed and patented its Paraflex Shock Absorber in 2005. This replaced the KIF shock absorption system is some of their models. 

Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber
Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber
Shock absorption is a very important part of maintaining the accuracy of mechanical watch movements. The oscillator is what regulates the time in the movement and that very fragile piece must be protected from shock in order to keep proper time.

Rolex asserts that their Paraflex absorbs up to 50% more shock than other shock protection systems. It is easier to manufacture and service than other shock absorbers and is meant to avoid deformation.

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Rolex Blue Parachrom Hairspring

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Finer than a human hair, Rolex's patented blue Parachrom hairspring is manufactured completely in-house. Historically, blue hairsprings are known as the most precise and reserved for the most prestigious timepieces. The watchmaker introduced this hairspring in the 4130 movement of the Cosmograph Daytona in 2000. 

The oscillator is composed of a balance wheel and a hairspring. This is the part of a mechanical watch movement that regulates electric current that is delivered to the oscillator from the mainspring through the escapement. The precision of frequency determines the precision of the watch, in this case within one second a day.  

Rolex Parachrom Blue Hairspring oscillator
Rolex Parachrom Blue Hairspring
Hairsprings are generally composed of ferromagnetic alloys such as iron, nickel, cobalt and chrome, however, these alloys are sensitive to magnetism and shock. Rolex developed the blue Parachrom hairspring buy fusing niobium and zirconium with a precise quantity of oxygen then introduced to obtain this specific alloy. The use of this alloy makes this hairspring up to ten times more accurate than traditional hairsprings.

Rolex has two patents on their blue Parachrom hairspring. One is for the chemical composition of the alloy and the other is for the surface treatment that was developed in 2005 that gives the hairspring its blue color.

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