How to Choose a Rolex

photo of Rolex Submariner Date and Deepsea Side by Side
Rolex Submariner Date and Deepsea Side by Side
While Rolex is a very recognizable brand that has been around for many years, it can be difficult to decide which of their wristwatch models best suits your lifestyle. Model configurations vary in size, material and pricing, each with their own unique characteristics. While no one can tell you which Rolex model(s) to choose, your decision can be made much easier when you have all of the information necessary to properly evaluate them.

Although the decision ultimately comes down to personal aesthetic and functionality in most cases, pricing is usually a big factor in determining which Rolex model to choose. Rolex offers many of their popular models in 904L stainless steel, like the GMT-Master II BLNR shown in the photo below. Most of their stainless steel models are priced under $10,000 US. I put together a list of my picks in this category that includes suggested retail prices in a previous entry found here.

Photo of Rolex GMT-Master II BLNR
Rolex GMT-Master II BLNR (photo: Rolex)
Rolex also offers configurations that combine stainless steel with gold. They refer to this combination  as Rolesor and their rose gold as Everose. The Yacht-Master II model is one of their largest models and comes in two tone Everose Rolesor as shown in the photo below. Check it out along with many other Rolesor model configurations on my list of the best Rolex models under $25,000.

Photo of Rolex Yacht-Master II Model in Everose Rolesor (photo: Rolex)
Rolex Yacht-Master II Model in Everose Rolesor (photo: Rolex)
If gold is what you're looking for, Rolex has many model configurations that really shine in white, yellow and Everose gold. Rolex makes the gold used for their wristwatches in their own foundry located at their Plan-les-Ouates site in Geneva, Switzerland. Most of their gold models are priced under $50,000 and you can check out my picks here. Their popular Cosmograph Daytona model is shown below in yellow gold with a blue dial.

photo of Yellow Gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (photo: Rolex)
Yellow Gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (photo: Rolex)
If price is not an issue and you are looking for a classic Rolex with a modern aesthetic, I would recommend the Platinum Day-Date model with the ice blue dial shown below. Justin Timberlake wore the yellow gold version of this model in his latest music video. The suggested retail price for this model is 59,600 Swiss francs or approximately $60,180 US.

Platinum Rolex Day-Date 40 (photo: Rolex)
Another thing that makes it easier to decide which Rolex model is right for you is by seeing it on somebody else. I have a Style section on this blog dedicated to showing which celebrities wear what models. Golfer Adam Scott was tapped as a Rolex brand ambassador and was featured in their ads for their newest model, the Sky-Dweller.

Photo of Golfer Adam Scott in ad for Rolex Sky-Dweller (photo: Rolex)
Golfer Adam Scott in ad for Rolex Sky-Dweller (photo: Rolex)
For those who like to know what makes their watches tick, I have added a Tech section to this blog with information on Rolex movements, materials and technical innovations. I have also created a Historical Timeline following the watchmaker from its founding by Hans Wilsdorf in 1908 to the present for those who like to know more about the company they are buying from.

My hope is that this information will help bolster your understanding of Rolex watches and allow you to make a wise purchase decision. For more information about Rolex and their wristwatch models, including model comparisons, check out my Rolex Shopping Guide.

Where Do I Buy a New Rolex?

photo of interior of Rolex Authorized Dealer
Rolex Authorized Dealer (photo: Rolex)
When considering a new Rolex wristwatch purchase, it is important to choose a reputable Rolex Authorized Dealer (AD). Only official retailers should sell and service Rolex timepieces. Although there is a large secondary market for used and vintage models, new models should be purchased at these locations.

A new Rolex comes with a warranty card in a leather sleeve, a red Chronometer hang tag, a warranty service booklet and dive watches come with a metal hook as well. If you are buying a new Rolex and are missing any of these items, you should find out why before completing the purchase.

Many compare the papers that come with Rolex wristwatches to the papers that certify an original work of art. The original paperwork provides provenance and makes a stronger argument for the authenticity of an item than one without papers. However, just because a vintage or secondhand Rolex does not come with the original papers does not mean it isn't real. It just means that you have to rely on the trustworthiness of the establishment that is selling the watch to you on the secondary market.

Generally speaking, the best way to ensure that the new Rolex you are purchasing is in fact new and authentic is to visit an Authorized Dealer. Rolex offers a store locator on their site that lets you know the closest AD to you.

>>BACK TO ROLEX SHOPPING GUIDE

Rolex Cellini Dual Time

Rolex's Cellini models are outliers when compared to the rest of their models. They don't use Oyster cases or metal bracelets, which sets them apart from the Oyster models the watchmaker is primarily known for. 
photo of Rolex Cellini Dual Time
Rolex Cellini Dual Time (photo: Rolex)
The design of the Cellini Time, shown above in 18 karat white gold with a black alligator leather strap, is clean and sophisticated. The case measures 39 mm in diameter and features a double bezel that is both domed and fluted with a guilloche dial. Cellini models only come in 18 karat white, yellow or rose gold with gold appliqué hour markers.

The Cellini Time has a gold-rimmed sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position that can be programed to tell the time of a different time zone. The sub-dial has an aperture at the 9 o'clock position that shows a sun in the am hours and a moon in the pm hours. The hour and minute hands are shaped like swords and the hour markers are bisected by the minute scale. 

The large, round case and refined features position this timepiece among the more modern luxury wristwatches meant only to adorn the wrist and tell the time. With a depth rating of a mere 50 meters, this is not a sports watch by any stretch of the imagination. It is, however, a unique and elegant addition to Rolex's product offering.

Which Rolex Model is Right for Me?

Once you've decided on purchasing a Rolex, the next question would be - which model is right for you? Personal style, budget, functionality and size are a few of the factors that go into deciding between Rolex models.

Which Rolex Model is Right for Me? (photo: Leandro Puca)
Personal style is probably the most important factor that goes into this decision. If you're like most people, you wear your wristwatch on a daily basis, so you should consider how a watch would look on your wrist transitioning from work to social settings, outdoors, formal events, etc. In the Style section of this site, I include photos of people wearing their watches in different situations to give you an idea of who is wearing what and how.

Size is also an important deciding factor. When browsing timepieces on websites, it's hard to imagine how they would look on your wrist without a point of comparison. I have added a Model Comparison section to show how different models measure up against each other.

Although most people don't use professional watches as tools for their trades, their functionality is still important. People who travel a lot may put the GMT's 24 hour hand to good use. If you're into racing cars, the Daytona's tachymetric scale may better suit your needs.

photo of GMT-Master II Model Display at Baselworld 2016
GMT-Master II Model Display at Baselworld 2016
Ultimately, though, whatever model you chose has to fit into your budget. New Rolex Models range from approximately $5,000 US to upwards of $100,000 US depending on the model and configuration. I include Rolex's suggested retail price in most model posts. If it is not listed in the post, it's because I haven't been able to verify the price using primary sources.

>>BACK TO ROLEX SHOPPING GUIDE


Why Buy a Rolex?

Once you've made the decision to purchase a luxury watch, the logical first question to ask yourself would be - from who? There are many luxury watchmakers with long histories and large product offerings - Cartier, Patek Philippe, Panerai and Omega, to name a few. All of them are top of the line and offer beautiful timepieces. 

exterior photo of rolex bienne switzerland site
Rolex Bienne, Switzerland (photo: Rolex/Rémy Lidereau)
What set Rolex apart for me when I was on the market for a luxury watch was a combination of design aesthetic, legacy and technical innovation. When compared to the interesting new designs that have a appeared on the market recently - from skeleton watches to smart watches - Rolex watches may appear a bit traditional or even simple. However, it is their adherence to classical style and elegance that made me go with a Rolex in the end.

While smart watches are trendy, there's just something about having another digital screen to look at every day that turned me off from them. And I love the artistic look of skeleton watches, but the legibility is an issue for me - and why wear a watch if you can't tell the time on it? If I had a budget for multiple luxury timepieces I would buy one of each for different occasions. But I don't, so I went with what made the most sense for me.

photo of interior of rolex workshop
Rolex Workshop (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
Another factor that helped me decide on a Rolex for my first luxury watch purchase was the company's history. Learning about Rolex's founder, Hans Wilsdorf, and his obsession with reliability, innovation and excellence was compelling to me. I had always seen Rolex watches as a status symbol, but I never really asked myself why this brand was associated with success more so than any other.

That enduring success is also largely due to the technical innovations that Rolex has developed over the years. While Rolex models don't seem to change dramatically over the years, the movements inside have seen many improvements. Rolex is a vertically integrated company and they manufacture most of their movements, precious metals, steel bracelets and cases in house.

These are the main reasons that I decided to purchase a Rolex watch, but I would be remiss not to mention the fact that I inherited a Rolex from my grandfather and wore it for years before deciding to purchase one for myself. I ultimately chose a different model, but that experience certainly informed my purchase decision.

>>BACK TO ROLEX SHOPPING GUIDE

When Should I Buy My First Rolex?

There are many differing opinions about when to purchase your first luxury watch. The first and most logical answer is when you can afford one. While some people are privileged enough to be able to acquire a luxury timepiece early in life, most people have to work their way up to owning one. With that being said, a Rolex watch purchase is a great way to commemorate a career milestone.

Pondering a Rolex Purchase (photo: Olu Eletu)
Another common reason to buy a Rolex is to mark the passage of time. Anniversaries and birthdays are great times to show loved ones how much you care. Receiving a gift in the form of a luxury watch is always appreciated and creates a beautiful memory. It's also really nice to soften to blow of growing older by gifting yourself with one after reaching a certain age - a fortieth birthday, for example.

Finally, such a gift is an ideal way to honor an accomplishment. To receive or purchase a timepiece after a graduation or promotion imbues it with meaning and honors the tradition of excellence that is the hallmark of the Rolex brand.

>>BACK TO ROLEX SHOPPING GUIDE

Featured Post

Rolex Online Resources