First Rolex Oyster Perpetual Model, 1931

Early Rolex models, like the first Oyster Perpetual model from 1931 shown in the photo above, adhere to an elegant aesthetic that is now reserved for dress watches. In the 1920s and 1930s, men's fashion trended toward tailored suits, with sweaters and jackets considered casual. The Fashionisto offers a glimpse at depression-era fashion in this post on 1930s men's fashion. The fact that men wore suits almost exclusively when leaving the house makes it logical that the wristwatches they wore would seem formal and dressy based on current trends. These days, the idea of wetting a dress watch with a leather strap seems almost reckless, with so many waterproof stainless steel dive watches available. Back then, however, wearing anything other than a dress watch would have been considered a faux pas.

First Submariner, Milgauss and GMT Models from the 1950s

After World War II, men's fashion became less rigid and suits began to be replaced by more casual clothing, especially by the youth. It was an age of exploration, with submarines exploring the ocean floor and airlines like Pan Am offering passengers the chance to see the world. This decade also saw the introduction of the stainless steel tool watches that dominate the market today. The first Submariner, Milgauss and GMT models were all introduced in the mid-1950s and have seen little change since then in terms of aesthetic. Rolex still offered dress watches, like their popular Datejust model, but innovations in watchmaking allowed them to apply their craft to making watches that do more than just tell time.

Apple Watches

Advances in technology would affect the Swiss watchmaking industry in the 1970s and 1980s with the advancement of quartz movements. This technical innovation saw the end of many traditional Swiss watchmakers, with companies like Rolex incorporating the technology into their watches to stay above the trend. Many call it the quartz crisis, while others attribute the growth of companies like Rolex after the 1980s to the fact that many other luxury watchmakers in their industry ceased operations as a result. Technology is still affecting the luxury watch industry today with the advent of the smartwatch. I recently covered the rise of the Apple watch in post found here. I don't believe that smartwatches will take customers away from companies like Rolex, but they still represent an innovation in watchmaking that is reflective of the tech boom of the past decades.

Rolex's 2016 Yacht-Master II and Deepsea models

While technology and innovation with always play an important part in the watchmaking industry, the current trend in luxury watches is size. In 2007 and 2008, Rolex released their largest wristwatches, the Yacht-Master II and Deepsea models shown in the photo above. With 44mm cases, these nautical tool watches offer contemporary customers Rolex watches that size up to the large cases offered by companies like Panerai. Size matters these days and while many would advise against wearing one of these models with a suit, the reality is that men's fashion is far more sporty now that it ever has been. Many work environments now allow for rolled up or even short sleeves, freeing men from the restrictions of a suit and tie and allowing them to accessorize with tool watches instead of traditional dress watches.

As society moves forward and technology with it, luxury watches follow suit. Collectors and enthusiasts appreciate the combination of craftsmanship and design aesthetic that have gone into creating the wristwatch models that have endured for decades, offering them a glimpse into the ingenuity and sensibilities of days past. What the future holds for luxury watches remains to be seen, but one thing is for certain: wristwatches are designed to tell the time, but they are also telling of the times.

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Rolex Founder Hans Wilsdorf Circa 1950 (photo: Rolex)

Their largest dive watch to date, Rolex released the Deepsea model in 2008. Featuring a 44mm case, this stainless steel timepiece is larger than the Submariner and features a depth rating of 3,900 meters. As the name suggests, this model was designed for the deep sea exploration.

First Rolex Deepsea Model Introduced in 2008 (photo: Rolex)

Rolex has been actively involved with deep sea exploration for decades. The bathyscaphe Trieste descended into the Mariana Trench in 1960 with Rolex's experimental Deepsea Special model strapped onto it. In 2012, James Cameron went down the trench for his Deepsea Challenge and also took a Rolex experimental dive watch with him, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge.

The result of years of experimentation and engineering, the Deepsea features a Helium Escape Valve and Ringlock system architecture that improves its depth rating significantly as compared to previous models. It has a domed sapphire crystal that is 5.5 mm thick with no cyclops magnifying lens. A Triplock crown keeps the water from entering the case, ensuring a secure seal.

In 2014, Rolex released this model with a unique D-Blue dial, featuring a blue gradient on the dial to commemorate the historic Deepsea Challenge of 2012. This model also features a unique chartreuse DEEPSEA insignia on the dial, the same color as the submersible used in the challenge.

Rolex D-Blue Deepsea Model (photo: Rolex)

Since its release, there have been endless comparisons between this watch and the Rolex Submariner model. To see how the Deepsea measures up to the Submariner Date, check out my model comparison.

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First Rolex Yacht-Master II Model from 2007 (photo: Rolex)

This massive watch, one of Rolex's largest, was equipped with a 4161 movement that interacted with the Ring Command Bezel to operate the regatta timer and programmable countdown. Based on the 4130 movement, it featured the blue Parachrom hairspring and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Though there couldn't have been much of a demand for a timepiece with a regatta timer on the luxury watch market at the time, the Yacht-Master II provided a nautical alternative to other large professional watches like Rolex's Cosmograph Daytona. From the functionality perspective, the regatta timer isn't anymore esoteric than the tachymetric scale on the Daytona.

More so than the Yacht-Master model, the Yacht-Master II solidified Rolex's commitment to the yachting world. They have sponsored a multitude of yachting events throughout their history, including the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race in Australia.

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First GMT-Master II Model, 1982 (photo: Rolex)

In 1982, Rolex released the GMT-Master II model, which would go on to replace the GMT-Master years later. The GMT-Master II featured a thicker, synthetic sapphire crystal and a thicker case than its predecessor. It also allowed the wearer to jump from one hour to another when adjusting the hour hand without affecting the minute or second hands.

The 1980s also saw the beginning of Rolex's use of 904l stainless steel, which they used in place of the 316l stainless steel which is still the industry standard. This stainless steel alloy is normally used in industrial applications due to its resistance to corrosion and scratching in extreme conditions; it also polished better than 316l stainless steel.

While the advent of quartz watch movements may have altered the landscape of the Swiss watchmaking industry, it would seem to have only reinforced Rolex's vertically integrated business model.

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Rolex released the Explorer II model in 1971, almost twenty years after its predecessor. Although it shared a name with the Explorer, this wristwatch resembled the GMT-Master much more in terms of function and style - it actually used the same movement as the GMT-Master, either a calibre 1570 or 1575.

First Rolex Explorer Model, 1971 (photo: Rolex)

This professional wristwatch was originally marketed for scientists and explorers, such as speleologists, who easily lost track of day and night while performing research in caves. The original Explorer II had a 40mm case with a 24 hour fixed bezel and an orange 24 hour hand, as shown in the photo above.

For its 40th anniversary in 2011, the Explorer II was reintroduced with a 42mm case and a new 3187 movement. However, this model has changed very little through the years. The current model, shown below, is made with Rolex's 904l stainless steel alloy with a satin finish. It is available with a black dial and orange 24 hour hand, just like the original and the famed Steve McQueen version of the Explorer II.

Rolex Explorer II (photo: Rolex)

The Explorer II is often overlooked amidst the fanfare that surrounds the more popular Rolex models, such as the Submariner and Daytona. However, its longevity on the market and consistent design and functionality makes it a classic.

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Bathyscaphe Trieste, 1960 (photo: Rolex)

For the 1960 mission, the goal was to descend 11 kilometers down the Mariana Trench to collect data in one of the most inhospitable environments for life on the planet. Rolex strapped their latest experimental dive watch, the Deep Sea Special, to the outside of the Trieste for the voyage. The wristwatch withstood a pressure of one metric ton per square centimeter in the deepest depression on Earth.

"Happy to announce that your watch works as well at 11,000 meters as it does on the surface," wrote Jacques Piccard to Rolex headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland in a telegram sent on January 25, 1960.

Rolex Deep Sea Special 1960 (photo: Rolex)

Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race, 2014 (photo: Rolex/Daniel Forster)

Rolex's partnership with the annual yacht race began in 2002. The race starts on Boxing Day, December 26, and ends on January 1st, sending participants across 628 nautical miles in one of the toughest tests of seamanship in sailing.

'It's not just a race. It's really a human endeavor,' says Sean Langman, a 25 time participant. The race attracts the top sailing talent of the world, as well as top businessmen, politicians and sports stars. Captain John Illingworth won the inaugural race in his first venture south of Sydney. In 2012, Wild Oats XI set the current record for the race, reaching Hobart in 1 day, 18 hours, 23 minutes and 12 seconds under skipper Mark Richards.

Check out highlights of the 2015 Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race in the video below.

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First Rolex GMT-Master Model, 1955

The first GMT-Master model was released in 1955 to meet the needs of airline pilots who were having difficulty keeping track of time and dealing with jet lag while operating transatlantic flights for airlines like Pan American World Airways. It became the official watch of several airlines, including Pan Am.

First Chronometer Certificate Awarded to Rolex in 1910 (image: Rolex)