Does Rolex Make Their Own Movements?

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Over the past couple of decades Rolex has rolled out several tech innovations that have allowed them to almost fully integrate their wristwatch production. All of the models currently in production at their facilities in Switzerland are equipped with self-winding mechanical movements that are made in-house by the watchmaker and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). 

Photo of a Rolex Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
Rolex Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
The movements used in men's Rolex models are equipped with a blue Parachrom hairspring patented by the watchmaker. The alloy used for the hairspring consists of niobium, zirconium and oxygen. It is insensitive to magnetic fields and able to compensate for temperature variations, allowing it to remain precise even in less than ideal conditions. Rolex introduced the Syloxi hairspring, made using silicon, in 2014 for the lady's models.

High performance lubricants, gold Microstella nuts and a traversing balance bridge also help make Rolex's in-house movements oscillate at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. In 2005, they introduced the Paraflex shock absorber that doubled the shock absorption of previous movements. The watchmaker continues to integrate their production processes, giving them more control over the quality and precision of their timepieces.

For more information about the tech innovations that have gone into producing Rolex's in-house movements, check out my article of the Top 5 Rolex Tech Innovations. For details on individual movements, Rolex proprietary materials and more, visit the Tech section of this blog.

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Rolex 4130 Movement

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Rolex Calibre 4130 is a mechanical chronograph movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch that replaced the Zenith El Primero movement in the 2000 Cosmograph Daytona model. The Superlative Chronometer is accurate to within 1/8 of a second. 

photo of Rolex calibre 4130 Movement
Rolex 4130 Movement (photo: Rolex)
Equipped with 44 rubies, Rolex over coil, four gold Microstella nuts for high precision regulating and a power reserve of 72 hours, this movement resists shock and magnetism to provide ultimate accuracy. A blue Parachrom hairspring gives it a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.

The Cosmograph Daytona model features a 30 minute counter at the 3 o'clock position, seconds counter at the 6 o'clock position, a 12 hour counter at the 9 o'clock position and stop seconds to allow for accuracy in time keeping. According to Crown & Caliber, the 4130 movement is one of the most innovative watch movements. It is manufactured completely in house by Rolex.

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Rolex 3135 Movement

.Tech.
Introduced in 1988 to replace the 3035 movement, Rolex calibre 3135 is used in more of their wristwatch models than any other movement. The self-winding mechanical movement powers the Submariner Date, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master and Datejust 36mm.

photo of rolex calibre 3135 movement
Rolex's 3135 Movement (photo: Rolex)
Developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex, the 3135 movement measures 28.5 mm in diameter with a height of 6 mm. It is equipped with 31 jewels, a Perpetual rotor and Rolex's patented blue Parachrom hairspring, making it ten times more precise than other mechanical watch movements. A Rolex overcoil ensures its regularity regardless of its position and it has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

This impressive movement has been around for so long because of its superior design and construction. Over the years, it has incorporated other Rolex innovations, like the blue Parachrom hairspring, to keep it up to date. It is a large movement, which allows Rolex to fit it with the most efficient and effective mechanical parts they manufacture.

The movement's frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (bph) can be appreciated in the YouTube video below. Hearing the sound of the movement while watching its parts interact is very soothing. Perhaps getting a glimpse of the heart of the watch is the reason the skeleton watch trend has taken such a strong hold over the past few years.

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Rolex 4161 Movement

.Tech.
Caliber 4161 is a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement manufactured in house by Rolex for their Yacht-Master II model. Based on the 4130 movement used in the Cosmograph Daytona model, the 4161 movement interacts with the Ring Command Bezel to set the regatta timer built into the Yacht-Master II. 

photo of rolex's caliber 4161 movement
Rolex 4161 Movement (photo: Rolex)

35,000 hours went into manufacturing the 4161 movement. Rolex uses UV-LiGA microsystem technology to produce some of the tiny components that go into this movement. It is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring and Perpetual rotor, both proprietary components of the watchmaker. 

This movement makes the regatta timer functions of the Yacht-Master II possible. The programable mechanical countdown features synchronization on the fly. By hitting one of the pushers, one can reset the countdown to synchronize it with the official time of the regatta, allowing skippers to take off on time and avoid penalties or delays. 

With a 72 hour power reserve, the 4161 combines innovation with functionality to create a truly superlative chronometer from Rolex.

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Rolex 3255 Movement

.Tech.
One of the most talked about innovations revealed by Rolex at Baselworld 2015 was the Calibre 3255. The self-winding mechanical movement powers the Day-Date 40, a clean, modern take on their classic Day-Date model with a 40mm case. 

rolex calibre 3255
Rolex 3255 Movement (Photo: Rolex)

The watchmaker had to develop their own test protocol to evaluate the movement's performance. Protected by 14 patents, it is twice as precise as an officially certified chronometer and has a 70 hour power reserve. It also has their blue Parachrom hairspring fitted into the oscillator.

Another new feature is the Rolex Chronergy escapement, which accounts for a 15% increase in energy efficiency. Improvements were also made to the oscillating weight and the setting mechanism, which allows you to more easily feel each position when setting the watch.

Perpétuelle's blog offers a illustrated guide to this movement, for those who are interested in an organized, in-depth look at the new features and their functions.

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Rolex 3187 Movement

.Tech.
The Rolex Calibre 3187 is a self-winding mechanical movement developed by Rolex for the Explorer II model in 2011. All of the elements of the movement were manufactured by the watchmaker, including the Parachrom Blue Hairspring. 

Rolex 3187 Movement
The certified Swiss Chronometer is slightly larger and thicker than its predecessor, the 3186 movement found in previous models, to fit into the 42mm case of the Explorer II. This movement features a 24 hour hand that displays a second time zone, one of the main features of the Explorer II. 

One of the crowning features of this movement is the addition of Rolex's Paraflex shock absorber. Replacing the KIT shock absorber in the 3186, the Paraflex shock absorber is manufactured by Rolex and is said to absorb up to 50% more shock than other shock protection systems.

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Rolex 9001 Movement

.Tech.
Rolex calibre 9001 is one of the most complex self-winding mechanical movements developed and manufactured by the watchmaker. This certified Swiss chronometer was designed for the Sky-Dweller model in 2012, featuring a dual time zone display and an annual calendar that tells the difference between months with 30 and 31 days. 

Rolex 9001 movement
Rolex 9001 Movement
The functions of the impressive watch are adjusted using the rotatable Ring Command Bezel. The movement is equipped with a selector wheel on its outside edge that works with the bezel to allow for these adjustments.

A Saros annual calendar that uses the positions of the earth, moon and sun is built into the movement using four additional gear wheels. This is the mechanism that allows the watch to differentiate between shorter and longer months, making it only necessary to set the date on March 1 to make up for the month of February having less than 30 days.

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