Did You Know Rolex Partnered with TED to Develop their "Surprise Me" App?

Rolex-Sponsored 'Surprise Me' TED App (photo: TED)
Rolex's emphasis on innovation goes beyond the production of their wristwatches. Since 2007, Rolex has partnered with TED to provide an innovative approach to help people discover ideas worth spreading. The "Surprise Me" feature on TED's iOS application is the result of this partnership.

TED is a nonprofit that began in 1984 as a conference where topics pertaining to technology, entertainment and design were discussed. Today, their talks range in topics and languages, with the only caveat being that they run no longer than 18 minutes. They have also spawned independent events, known as TEDx events, that take place across the globe.

The "Suprise Me" app allows you to enter what type of talks you would like to listen to, from inspiring to funny, beautiful to courageous. You then select how much time you have to watch or listen, a feature that ties in an element of Rolex's brand. The time limit is also ideal for people who have busy lives as well, something common amongst the watchmaker's customer base.

While this is a low-key partnership for Rolex, especially considering that they just sponsored the 89th Academy Awards, it represents the company's interest in promoting global citizenship. To check out the app and learn more about TED, visit ted.com.

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Is There Room for Women in the World of Watches?

Garbiñe Muguruza (photo: Rolex)
The New York Times interviewed Hodinkee staff writer Cara Barrett recently to discuss what its like to be a woman working in an industry that's dominated by men. In it, she comments on instances when she was confronted by readers about gendering watches as female. She also touches upon the fact that most executives in the watchmaking industry are older males, making it even more difficult for women to break into the world of watches.

Hodinkee has a most male readership, but they ostensibly cater their content to a younger demographic than Baby Boomers. One would think that this would make room for a more nuanced approach to gender. However, the anonymity of commenting on the Internet allows for trolls to take on antiquated positions without accountability. This presents a challenge for writers like Barrett, but it is nice to see that there are women willing to put up with discrimination in order to advance the cause of gender equality in horology.

UPDATE:
Rolex has recently added more women to their Every Rolex Tells a Story section. Click here to check out Sylvia Earle's story or visit the watchmaker's official website at rolex.com to browse the entire section.

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Is Rolex Listening to Our Baselworld 2017 Predictions?

Rolex Baselworld 2016 Conference Room (photo: Rolex/Cédric Widmer)
As a daily lurker on watch forums, I enjoy reading threads like this one with speculations about Rolex's Baselworld 2017 new model lineup. There is always someone claiming to have inside information direct from the watchmaker. The information posted (and the original poster's creditability) is then analyzed by forum members, with opinions and conflicting theories adding pages and pages to the thread.

I highly doubt that any definitive information would be leaked considering the amount of buzz they need to generate at the event to sustain sales in the year to come. However, I have spent enough time on Reddit and forums to know that marketers do seem to use these platforms as a virtual focus group for their products. I wouldn't doubt it if they give some misdirection to keep people guessing while also leaking certain details to gauge a reaction. Even though the trade show is only a couple months away, the watchmaker can certainly tailor their presentation based on the moods and expectations of their customer base before the show.

When I think of how much time they need to prepare for Baselworld 2017, I remember reading that Rolex created the Deepsea Challenge watch that went down with James Cameron into the Mariana Trench in 2012 with only four weeks' notice before the dive. If they had the capacity to create that watch within weeks, they can certainly prepare marketing materials and display models by March 2017 for any new model. It's not like they will be fulfilling orders at the event. They have months to produce the timepieces, but the show is a way for them to set their sales and marketing in motion for the year to come. They most likely have most of the updates set in stone, but I wonder if they have decided which configuration will be the breakout star, like the Ceramic Daytona of 2017.

As I mentioned in the last post of 2016, I think it's always a good idea to indulge in rumors and predictions. It's like fantasy football or a virtual soapbox for collectors and enthusiasts to express their desires and expectations from the watchmaker. While I'm sure the company spends money on formal marketing research, there's no reason for them not to put their ear to the ground and listen to the rumblings on the internet as well. What would they have to lose?

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What Would You Like to See from Rolex in 2017?

With 2016 coming to an end, the Internet is abuzz with predictions for which models Rolex will update and introduce at Baselworld 2017. As a creative professional, I have indulged some of my own ideas with Photoshopped concepts and shared them on this blog. While the likelihood of many of these concepts coming to life may be slim, I always prefer to err on the side of imagination. 
Rolex Bronze Explorer II Concept
The image above is a bronze Explorer II that I put together to express my desire for a new and bold Explorer configuration. Since they currently don't offer Explorer models in any material other than stainless steel, I figure it wouldn't hurt to introduce a bronze version. Check out my post on this concept for more information on why I think a bronze Rolex would be a great addition to their professional collection.

Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000
I put together a post with my 2017 Rolex model update predictions that focuses on their past behavior in terms of model updates. The most likely prediction is a 50th anniversary model update for the Sea-Dweller 4000. There are a couple other models with anniversaries and I also list other factors that may influence the watchmaker's model updates, like sizes and materials.
Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet 
One of the innovations that I feel will most likely be introduced on new model configurations is the Oysterflex bracelet shown in the photo above. With the popularity of rubber straps for Rolex watches, it makes perfect sense for the watchmaker to capitalize off the trend by offer more rubber strap models in addition to the Everose gold Yacht-Master that is currently offered with the Oysterflex.

Blacked Out Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 Concept
Another concept that I chose to bring to life is a blacked out Sea-Dweller 4000. Although this would be a big move for the watchmaker, who usually maintains a classical aesthetic on their wristwatch models, I feel that it is entirely in their wheelhouse considering that they already use a PVD coating on their Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark. It may be pie in the sky, but it doesn't hurt to dream.

When it comes to making predictions, I find that it is more important to express my desire than try to be dead on. We lose nothing by letting the watchmaker know which models we love, which we think could use an upgrade and what we want our Rolex watches to look like in the future.

Regardless of what we see at Baselworld 2017, I hope that their model updates combine the precision and innovation Rolex is known for with an emboldened aesthetic that incorporates some of the aspects of their Tudor brand that we have come to love. The only question left for me to ask going into the new year is: what would you like to see from Rolex in 2017?

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Will 2017 Be the Year of the Blacked Out Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000?

UPDATE: The short answer is no! Check out the 2017 Sea-Dweller model here

Blacked Out Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 Concept
While Tudor Watch Company offers their Heritage Black Bay Dark model with a black PVD coating on it, we have yet to see Rolex come out with a blacked out model. When thinking of how they might commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller 4000 at Baselworld 2017, it occurred to me that offering a blacked out version is not only within their production capabilities, but also something that already has a market. Many companies offer after-market modification services and it might make sense for the watchmaker to apply a dark coating onto the stainless steel watch in-house to cut out the middle man.

The image above is a Photoshopped SD4K with a blacked out Oyster case and bracelet and the name and depth rating in double red to honor dive watches of years past. What I love about this concept is that it still maintains the Rolex aesthetic while bringing into the 21st century in terms of style. They are not known for following trends with their collections for the Rolex brand, so this would be a bold move that would revitalize a professional model that is usually overlooked. It would also be wise to invest in marketing another stainless steel configuration this year as precious metal watches aren't moving as much in international markets.

Even with all of my arguments for a blacked out Sea-Dweller 4000 in 2017, I know that it is a pie in the sky prediction based on Rolex's modus operandi when it comes to updating models. However, I don't think it hurts to daydream. As much as I respect the brand, I do crave a bold move from them in the coming year that would show watch enthusiasts that they are capable of more than building upon classic models and 20th century aesthetics.

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What is the Difference Between Watch Precision vs Accuracy?

What is the Difference Between Watch Precision vs Accuracy? (photo: Niklas Rhose)
Generally speaking, the idea behind wearing a wristwatch is being able to tell the time with a glance at your wrist. While there are many other reasons for choosing to wear a watch, its ability to tell time accurately is of utmost importance. However, there is some confusion regarding the difference between the precision of a watch and its accuracy. Watchmakers test a watch's precision before it leaves the manufacture, but that doesn't necessarily mean it will tell time accurately when it is on your wrist. 

Precision

When watchmakers test precision, they are looking for how close one measurement is to another. For example, when shooting archery, the measure of precision refers to the grouping of the arrows on the target independently of how close those arrows came to the bullseye. Similarly, if a watch measures time with the same variation every day, it is precise, even if it is losing 6 seconds a day. As long as the loss remains at 6 seconds each day, the watch is measuring time precisely, though perhaps not accurately.

Accuracy 

Using the archery example, you can think of accuracy as how close the arrows get to the bullseye. Accuracy is measured against a standard measurement, in the case of watches a measurement of time. So, your watch is only accurate if it tells the right time, even though it can be extremely precise while telling the wrong time every day. There are many factors that can affect the accuracy of your timepiece, including behavioral factors like how much you move your wrist throughout the day and how you store your watch when not in use.

Watchmakers like Rolex publish the precision of their watches after testing them in-house. While the watch may be precise up to -2/+2 seconds per day, that doesn't mean that it will not gain or lose more when on your wrist. However, it is a good indication that the timepiece is capable of keeping accurate time. For more information on how Rolex tests their watches, visit rolex.com. For information on their Superlative Chronometer Certification, check out my post on the subject here.

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When is a Rolex Watch the Right Birthday Gift?

I came across an article on gq.com in which Jessi Klein, head writer for Inside Amy Schumer, shares a story about buying her husband a Rolex watch for his forty-fifth birthday. She refers to Rolexes as 'engagement rings for dudes' based on the fact that men feel the same way about the watches that women feel about diamond rings. It's a fair comparison and I would agree that they make wonderful birthday gifts, there are some caveats when it comes to buying someone a Rolex.

When is a Rolex Watch the Right Birthday Gift? (photo: Ben White)
The first thing to take into consideration is budget. Rolex prices range from less than $10,000 to upwards of $100,000 US, so you must have your finances in order before making the decision to give one as a gift. Most of their stainless steel professional models, like the Submariner, are on the more affordable side while precious metal and diamond models will run you significantly more. There are also models that are harder to find than others, like the 2016 Ceramic Daytona. Dealers may charge a premium for them, so that should also be taken into consideration.

Pricing and availability are important factors of a Rolex purchase, but choosing the right model can make the difference between a watch that will last a lifetime and one that will go back to the dealer for an exchange. This is perhaps the most difficult part about buying a watch as a gift for someone. While from a distance many models look similar, each one has its own legacy and caters to different personalities. For example, even though they have a similar look, the GMT-Master II and Submariner have different functionalities that cater to different demographics. Using Jessi Klein's comparison to an engagement ring, it's similar to the difference between a marquis cut diamond and a pear cut diamond.

The main difference between an engagement ring and a Rolex is that there is a specific occasion for giving someone an engagement ring, whereas you can give someone a watch to mark many different occasions. Whether given to honor an advancement in career, a birthday or a relationship milestone, a luxury timepiece is meant to stay with the owner for a lifetime and even longer, as many choose to pass their watches down to future generations. Anyone would be lucky to receive a Rolex as a birthday gift, but I would say that the best time to give one as a gift is when you are certain that they will be getting a watch that they will never want to take off.

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Will Rolex Introduce a Bronze Model Configuration in 2017?

In a recent New York Times Men's Style article, Alex Williams reports on the current trend of using bronze as a material for luxury wristwatches. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, shown in the photo below, was one of the timepieces he mentioned in a list that also included Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Automatic Bronzo and models by IWC and Zenith. I have come across many positive comments about the Black Bay Bronze on blogs and forums and it makes me wonder if Rolex will release a bronze configuration in 2017 - and if so, on which model?
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze (photo: Tudor)
Only time will tell if the watchmaker chooses to expand their bronze product offerings from their sister brand to Rolex, but if I had to guess which model they would choose to go bronze it would be either the Yacht-Master or the Explorer II. Even though the current trend favors dive watches, I think creating a bronze Submariner would dilute the market for the Black Bay. It would probably make more sense if they choose to make the Sea-Dweller 4000 or Yacht-Master in bronze, but I think the Explorer II would make for a killer bronze watch with a chocolate dial. I came up with the concept design below based on the 2016 Explorer II model (Reference # 216570).

Rolex Explorer II Bronze Configuration Concept Design
We will have to wait till Baselworld 2017 to find out what the next year will hold for new Rolex model configurations. Bronze watches may be a passing trend or become a new staple of luxury wristwatch collections in the years to come. The attention Tudor's official website devotes to the Black Bay Bronze on their homepage makes me think that we may be seeing more bronze watches from them in the future. Hopefully their experience with the material will help Rolex decide if it's worth coming up with a bronze watch of their own. For now, my money's on the Explorer II.

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Which is the Smallest 2016 Rolex Model?

2016 Rolex Lady-Datejust 26 (photo: Rolex)
It should come as no surprise that the smallest Rolex 2016 model is part of their women's watch collection. The Lady-Datejust 26 is available in several dial and bezel combinations in either stainless steel or Rolesor, a combination of white gold and stainless steel. It comes with either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, with the option of adding diamonds to the dial and bezel. Dial colors range from silver and blue to pink and black. 

Equipped with a 2235 self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, the Lady-Datejust 26 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) testing. To browse all of the 2016 Lady-Datejust 26 configurations, visit rolex.com

Should I Modify My Rolex?

Rolex models change very little from reference to reference, maintaining a classical aesthetic while increasing in reliability as technology advances watchmaking techniques. However, not everyone appreciates the slow and steady style evolution of these timepieces. For those who like their watch to reflect their personality, a modified Rolex can give them what they want, but not without some risks when it comes to servicing and resale value. Like most other commodities, the more personalized they are, the smaller the market for them when it comes time to sell them.
Light Blue Rolex Milgauss Modification Idea
The first thing to take into account when deciding whether to modify your Rolex is that the watchmaker will not accept one of their timepieces for service if it has been modified. So, if you would like to change the color of the dial, for example, you will have to put the original Rolex dial back on before sending it in to the service center. If you make more permanent modifications, like adding a coating through a company like Titan Black, they will not work on the watch at all. This means that you will have to rely on someone else to service or repair your watch in the future.

If being blacklisted by Rolex Service Centers doesn't bother you and you plan on keeping your watch forever, you can feel free to modify your watch without being concerned about anything other than the dirty looks you will get from brand loyalists. There are many ways to modify a watch, from something as simple as swapping out the hour markers to more drastic modifications like blacking out or engraving. The good thing about a Rolex is that you don't have to modify them too much to make them stand out since there is such uniformity in their wristwatch model design. The photo above shows a Milgauss (Reference # 116400GV) that I altered in Photoshop.

The Milgauss is a charming model that is often overlooked. I love the lightning bolt second hand and its scientific legacy. But when it comes to the aesthetic, I have a hard time with the black dial combined with its orange and green design details. The Z-Blue dial version does a better job of offering a fresh and bold configuration, but the black dial isn't as sexy. I took to Photoshop to tweak the hour markers and other design details to make them pop against the black background and stainless steel case. I chose a light blue color that looks just as fresh as the Z-blue dial, but a little more low key.

While modifications are looked down upon by the watchmaker and purists, it is up to the owner of the watch to decide what to do with it. As long as you are okay with the restrictions that come with modifying your Rolex, I say go for it. If I've learned anything about watches in the past few years, it's that the most important part of owning a watch is that you love the way it looks on your wrist.

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Do You Need a Reason to Buy a Rolex?

When it comes to making a luxury timepiece purchase, many feel that a special occasion is necessary to justify the expense, while others feel free to purchase their favorite wristwatches on a whim. There are several factors that determine when and why one would consider a big ticket item, but the question remains: do you need a reason to buy a Rolex?

Rolex Daytona 116500LN (photo: Rolex/Stephan Cooper)
In my Rolex Shopping Guide, I usually break down Rolex watches based on pricing, as most people need to budget and plan ahead of making a luxury watch purchase. I find that it's best to avoid the pitfall of falling in love with a precious metal configuration when you only have the budget for a stainless steel sports model. And even if you have all the money in the world, it still makes sense to compare models of equal value when evaluating a purchase. However, for most people being able to come up with the money isn't reason enough to pull the trigger on a Rolex.

When it comes to luxury watches, there are many great companies that compete for the attention of watch collectors and enthusiasts. Most offer great wristwatches with competitive pricing, but not every luxury watch is created equal. When it comes to retaining their value, Rolex watches are hard to beat. That's not to say they are an investment - unless you are knowledgeable and connected in the watch world, the chances that you will find a watch that's going to earn you a return above the price you paid for it are slim. Many fail to understand the difference between an item increasing in value and retaining its value when discussing watches. That's not to say they aren't a valuable asset, though.

Aside from value retention, there are other reasons to consider a Rolex purchase. Their timepieces are well made and built to last a lifetime, even more with proper care. This makes them wonderful heirlooms for your children. The company's continued focus on excellence also makes their watches symbols of success and achievement, making a Rolex purchase a great way to mark an accomplishment. The style factor should not be overlooked, either, as a luxury wristwatch elevates one's aesthetic effortlessly.

Everyone has their own individual reasons for buying a Rolex, but do you need a reason at all? As much as I like to carefully plan all of my purchases, I have to say that the best reason to buy a Rolex is no reason at all. There is a pleasure in purchasing a beautiful watch that supersedes any logical reasoning attached to the transaction. Luxury purchases will always seem illogical to some, so my recommendation is to spend less time trying to rationalize your luxury watch purchase and more time enjoying the experience of wearing the watch on your wrist.

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Are Rolex Watches Self-Winding?

Rolex 2236 Movement (photo: Rolex/Jean-Daniel Meyer)
The first mechanical watches manufactured by Rolex and other Swiss watchmakers in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century required one to wind the crown to power the movement inside the case. The Perpetual rotor, developed by Rolex in 1931, changed that. With the addition of a half-moon shaped oscillating weight to rotate 360 degrees with the motion of the wearer's wrist, the Perpetual rotor provided enough energy for the movement to power itself. 

You may have noticed that, save the models in their Cellini line, Rolex watches have the words 'Oyster Perpetual' printed on the dial. The word Oyster refers to the waterproof Oyster case, developed by the watchmaker in 1926. The Perpetual part refers to the rotor and indicates that the timepiece is in fact self-winding or automatic. There are still luxury watchmakers, like Panerai and others, that still offer mechanical watches that require winding, but all of Rolex's current models are self-winding.

For more information on Rolex's Perpetual rotor, check out my previous post about the innovation in the Tech section of this website. You can also find information on Rolex's official website at rolex.com

What is a Grail Watch?

According to Arthurian legend, the holy grail is the chalice that Jesus drank out of during the last supper, which Joseph of Arimathea later used to collect his blood after his crucifixion. This mythical artifact is highly sought after in medieval tales and more recently in movies like Monty Python and the Holy Grail. As it relates to wristwatches, a grail watch means different things to different people, but generally refers to a collector or watch enthusiast's most coveted timepiece.  

What is a Grail Watch? (photo: Jessica Ruscello)
While most grail watches do come with a large price tag, affordability is not the only thing coming between many watch enthusiasts and their ultimate timepiece. Scarcity is also something that would prevent one from attaining their grail watch. There are many rare vintage timepieces that are simply not available for sale all the time, and when they do hit the market, they are snatched up quickly. Your grail could be a simple stainless steel sports watch that is in the same price range as the current model, but has a dial or configuration that you prefer. You could also have a sentimental reason that makes you place a certain timepiece above all others.

The difference between a grail watch and the actual holy grail is that a grail watch is more than just a legend. Some have to put money away for years and search high and low, but a grail watch is always attainable as long as you can find it and afford it at the time. So, what happens after you acquire your grail watch? For many people, once they own their grail watch they walk into the sunset with it strapped onto their wrist and leave it for their children in their will. And for those who love the chase more so than the timepiece itself, they find another watch to obsess over until they can make it theirs and move onto the next conquest.

If I were forced to choose a grail watch right now (there are several that I hope to be able to own someday in the not-too-distant future) it would have to be the Everose gold Rolex Day-Date with the chocolate dial and diagonal motif shown in the photo above. I would say that the yellow gold GMT-Master II with the green dial comes in a close second, but the rose gold on the Day-Date just speaks to me and the chocolate dial compliments it in a way that still impresses me every time I see it. And if I am going with a precious metal configuration, I would give the edge to a classic dress watch like the Day-Date because that's what those materials are meant for. I love Rolex's sports models, but I usually prefer them in their stainless steel configurations.

Will I ever come to own my grail watch? I hope so, but I can't say it's the only watch that would make me happy forever. There are a few Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe models that I would absolutely love to own, and since I have no plans of robbing a bank or winning the lottery, I will likely have to choose between a few of my top timepieces in the end. However, I will say that even deciding upon a grail watch for this blog post has helped me figure out what I love about the watches that I love, so I think that choosing a grail watch is ultimately a worthwhile exercise.

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Who Owns Rolex?

The majority of the world's most reputable companies, like Apple (AAPL) and Disney (DIS), are publicly traded companies with abbreviations that you can find on any stock ticker. If you are looking for the abbreviation for Rolex to gather information on the company, you may be surprised to find out that it's not in fact a publicly traded company and information on their annual production and profitability is not available to the public.

Who Owns Rolex? (photo: rolex.com)
On September 07, 1945, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation was created to assume ownership of the Rolex company in the event of the death of its founder, Hans Wilsdorf. Wilsdorf's wife May died in 1944 and the couple had no children, so Wilsdorf decided that the company should become part of the foundation after he died. He passed away on July 6, 1960, and since then the company has been owned by the foundation. With no shareholders or board of directors, the profits of the company are reinvested in the company, with portions donated to the company's charitable initiatives. They are not required to report their annual production, profits and donations to the public, so the exact amounts are shrouded in mystery and speculation.

Given their expansive production facilities and quest for full vertical integration, it is clear that the majority of their profits are reinvested in the company. However, the watchmaker has several notable philanthropic programs that constitute donations to charity. Run by the Rolex Institute, the Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative and Awards for Enterprise honor human achievement and and strive to create meaningful impressions on the world achievement in the arts and philanthropy. 

Rolex Awards Ceremony at the Royal Society, London, Arthur Zang, 2014 Rolex Young Lauterate & Hayat Sindi, 2014 Jury Member (Photo: Rolex Awards/Nick Harvey)
The Awards for Enterprise were launched in 1976 to honor men and women who advance human knowledge in the areas of science, health, applied technology, exploration, discovery, environment and cultural heritage. Now in its 40th year, it has helped 130 pioneers work on making the world a better place for humanity. Its sister program, the Menor and Protégé Arts Initiative, brings emerging talents in the areas of architecture, dance, film, literature, music, theater and visual art together with masters in the field for a year to ensure that artistic excellence is passed on from generation to generation.

The watchmaker is also the official timepiece for many institutions of the arts, like the Met in New York City and La Scala in Milan. Additionally, in 2001 the watchmaker opened a watchmaking school in Pennsylvania, Lititz Watch Technicum, to meet the educational needs of young American watchmakers. Always looking to associate their brand with excellence and human achievement, it is likely that Rolex will continue to support art and culture for decades to come. Not beholden to shareholders and stock market volatility, the company can focus solely on continually improving their production process and contributing to the advancement of culture.

For more information on the company's contributions to the arts, including their arts testimonees and sponsored events, visit the Rolex and the Arts page of this site. For a list of the current protégés from the arts initiative, click here or visit the watchmaker's official website at rolex.com for additional information.

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Should I Buy a Rolex Without Its Original Bracelet?

When shopping for a vintage or preowned Rolex online, you may come across a listing for a watch with a leather, NATO or rubber strap on the original Rolex case. While aftermarket straps are a wonderful way to change up your wristwatch configuration, especially for outdoor activities, buying a watch without its original bracelet could become a problem for you in the future should you decide to send it to Rolex for servicing or replacement parts. 

Rolex Explorer II Case
The legal notice on Rolex's official website makes it clear that any modifications to the watch, including the bracelet, void their warranty:

Any addition or substitution of parts or accessories with those not manufactured by Rolex, as well as any alteration, modification or other material change made to or on Rolex products by a third party not authorized by Rolex cancels the warranty. Rolex does not approve any modification made by non-authorized third parties on the Rolex products, including the addition of verbal and graphic elements, as well as any customization activity (such as black coated watches, the addition of aftermarket diamonds, bezels, dials and bracelets, etc.). These modifications may harm the quality and the integrity of the Rolex products. (source: rolex.com)

I called their customer service department in New York City to verify this and they confirmed that in order for the watchmaker to perform any service to the timepiece it must have all of its original parts, including the bracelet. They also confirmed that their replacement parts are available on a trade-in basis only, so you have to send them your original bracelet in order to purchase a new one. What this means is that if you buy a Rolex case with no bracelet, not only will you not be able to get it serviced by them, but you will also not be able to purchase a replacement bracelet from them, either. 

Rolex Oyster Bracelet (photo: Rolex)
This information seems to contradict what some Rolex owners have posted to forums about purchasing bracelets as 'spares' or 'extras' in addition to their originals. However, I would be weary of purchasing replacement bracelets from anyone other than Rolex because it is very likely that if you are purchasing a Rolex part on the secondary market, it is not authentic. After all, if everyone has to trade in the original bracelet in order to purchase a new one, the chances of finding an authentic bracelet anywhere else are slim to none. 

It may be tempting to purchase a Rolex without its original strap based on the price, but the money you save on the initial purchase may not be worth the trouble of figuring out what to do with your watch in the event that you need to service it in the future. As long as you have the original bracelet, not matter what condition it's in, you will always be able to purchase a replacement from the watchmaker in the future.


Which Rolex Holds Its Value the Best?

While most people would associate the word value with its financial connotation, there are many different ways to appraise the value of a wristwatch. Most finance professionals would discourage one from calling a luxury watch an investment, but it is hard for people not to think about watches in financial terms when they read news stories about watches fetching hundreds of thousands - even millions - of dollars at auction. 

Rolex Submariner Ad from 1966 (photo: Rolex)
Even though I wouldn't call a watch an investment, Rolex watches do hold their value well compared to other brands. This isn't true for every model configuration, though. When thinking about a Rolex in terms of resale value, there are a few things to keep in mind. The first is that once you take the stickers off your watch, it is no longer considered 'Brand New In Box' or BNIB. So even though you may have paid full retail price for the watch, you will not be able to get that amount back for it unless it is a model that is fetching a premium, like the ceramic Daytona released at Baselworld this year.

Many attribute the high resale value of Rolex watches to the fact that they don't change their models too much from year to year, which means that a Submariner from 1966, like the one shown in the vintage advertisement above, doesn't look that different from a Submariner from the eighties or nineties. The consistency of their designs combined with the watchmaker's dedication to quality and innovation gives their vintage and preowned models a larger market than other watches that may have changed over the years based on passing trends. However, not all Rolex watches retain their value like the Submariner.

The First Rolex Submariner Model from 1953 (left) and the 2016 Submariner (right)
If you are looking for a Rolex that will retain its value, your best bet would be a stainless steel sports model. They are the most popular configurations and most retail for less than $10,000 US, giving them a larger market than precious metal configurations. The Submariner, GMT-Master II and Daytona models are the most popular of the group, making them a safe bet in terms of resale value. Right now, the GMT-Master II BLNR and ceramic Daytona models are highly sought after and hard to get, so if you are able to acquire one without paying above retail, you can be sure that its value will hold up over the next few years.

The Rolex models that are less likely to retain their value over time are their Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models. The reasoning is that there are so many different configurations available for those models that it dilutes the secondary market, making it tougher to find a buyer for one particular configuration over another. So, while it's nice to have options in terms of dial colors and hour markers when you are purchasing your timepiece from a dealer, it is those same options that will lower the resale value of the watch.

The best way to look at a luxury watch purchase from Rolex is as an investment in yourself. Their watches have become a symbol of success and excellence and being able to purchase one is an accomplishment in and of itself. Some models may have a better resale value than others on the market, but the true value of a luxury timepiece is the way you feel when it's on your wrist.

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Which Rolex Models Come With Leather Straps?

You may have seen photos of your favorite Rolex model on a leather strap on Instagram, as there are many companies that sell aftermarket straps that fit most watches. However, you can only buy a handful of Rolex models with a leather strap direct from the watchmaker. The photo below shows a few of their 2016 leather model configurations. 
Rolex Sky-Dweller, Cellini Date and Cosmograph Daytona Models on Leather Strap
Introduced in 2012, the Sky-Dweller model is available in 18 karat white, yellow or Everose gold with either an Oyster bracelet or alligator leather strap. The yellow gold configuration is shown above on brown leather. The leather strap is equipped with a folding Oyterclasp and 5mm Easylink extension system for additional comfort. The Everose gold Sky-Dweller is also available on a brown leather strap and the white gold configuration with a black leather strap.

Rolex's entire Cellini line of comes on leather straps in either black, brown or blue, like the Cellini Date shown in the photo above. The Cellini line is unique in that they do not use the Oyster case that all of their other models use. The Cellini case is slim and more circular than the Oyster case, making it the ideal watch to wear with a suit. Also available on a leather strap from Rolex is their famed Cosmograph Daytona model. Their 18 karat gold models come with either an Oyster bracelet or a black alligator leather strap.

Rolex Day-Date 36 on Green Leather Strap
Rolex's Day-Date 36 models on leather strap are available in a variety of color configurations. The yellow gold version is shown on a green strap with green dial in the photo above. The white gold Day-Date 36 is available on a blue strap and the Everose gold on brown leather. In addition to the Day-Date, Rolex offers their Datejust 36 on pink and white leather straps.

The models mentioned above are the only ones that are currently available on a leather strap manufactured by Rolex. There are vintage and pre-owned models from previous years that you can find on a leather strap, but if you are looking to purchase a Rolex on a leather strap, I would recommend calling the company directly to make sure that the strap was issued by them on the original timepiece. If you buy a pre-owned Rolex with an aftermarket leather strap, you will not be able to purchase an Oyster, President or Jubilee bracelet from them in the future, as you must have the original bracelet issued by Rolex in order to be able to purchase a replacement from them.

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What Are the Parts of a Mechanical Watch?

If you are new to the watch world, you may not be familiar with the different parts that make up a mechanical watch. I have put together this basic list of watch parts for anyone who still isn't sure what's what when they read about their favorite wristwatch models. I included photos of each component with a brief description of its function below.

Rolex Oyster Case (photo: Rolex)
Rolex's Oyster case is shown in the photo above in stainless steel with a gold fluted bezel and gold winding crown. The case houses and protects the movement, a small mechanism that powers the watch. The case above is empty, but does have the crystal and Rolex's Cyclops magnifying lens attached. The back of the case, visible through the crystal, is referred to as the case back. Rolex's case backs are all made of metal and screw into the middle case. Other watch brands feature clear case backs that expose the inner workings of the movement.

Dial and Hands of a Rolex Datejust (photo: Rolex)
The dial or watch face is the part of a watch that displays the hour and sometimes minute indicators and conceals the movement from sight on a completed watch. The hands are attached to the dial and move around as the day progresses. Some dials feature date apertures and other displays, like the chronograph of the Daytona, for example. They come in various colors and styles and feature arabic or roman numerals in some configurations.

Rolex Cerachrom Bezel Insert (photo: Rolex)
The bezel is the ring that surrounds the crystal of a watch. Bezels vary from model to model, some with utilitarian purposes and others purely aesthetic. The gold fluted bezel on the Oyster case in the first photo is an example of a bezel that serves an aesthetic purpose. The blue and black bezel in the photo above features a 24-hour display that allows the wearer to set the 24-hour hand of the GMT-Master II to the time of any GMT timezone with the turn of the bezel. The GMT bezel turns clockwise and counterclockwise and is known as a bi-directional bezel. A unidirectional bezel, as seen on the Submariner model, turns only one way.

Rolex's Twinlock Winding Crown (photo: Rolex)
The crown of the watch seals the case from the righthand side and also interacts with the movement to allow the user to adjust the time. Depending on the complication of the movement (a complication is any other function of the watch in addition to telling time) the crown can also be used to adjust other aspects, including the date and countdown timers. Rolex offers Twinlock or Triplock winding crowns with double or triple protection against water entering the case, indicated by the number of dots under the crown logo. The crown must be sealed at all times to protect the movement from water damage.

Rolex 3235 Movement (photo: Rolex)
The watch movement, also known as a caliber or calibre, is the center of operations of the timepiece. It controls the power, functionality and precision of the watch and sits inside the sealed case between the dial and the case back. The movement has a series of component parts that contribute to its functionality, which you can take a look at in the Tech section of this blog. Rolex manufactures their movements in-house and, aside from the materials used for the case and bracelet, the quality of the mechanical movement usually determines the value of the timepiece. Rolex offers their watches with automatic or self-winding movements, meaning that you don't have to wind the crown in order to power the movement.

Gold Rolex Oyster Bracelet with Oysterlock Clasp (photo: Rolex)
The most common Rolex bracelet is the Oyster bracelet shown above in yellow gold. When metal links are involved, you refer to it as a bracelet. Leather and rubber watchbands are what you would call straps. Rolex has a limited number of bracelet and straps options available on their models which you can read about in detail here. Their most notable is the President bracelet that is commonly seen on precious metal configurations of dress watches like the Day-Date or Datejust. The clasp is the part of the bracelet or strap that you open to put it on then close to secure it on your wrist. Rolex has a couple clasp options that you can read about here with various sizes and functions.

For more information on all of the watch parts shown above and an in-depth look at the tech innovations that set Rolex apart from other watchmakers, check out the Tech section of this site and visit the watchmaking section of rolex.com.

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